I think I need to "Summerise" the Boat

[Morrissey]

Ok, lots of info on 'winterising', but what about 'summerising'?

In my refit I decided against AC. Yes, Queensland has a similar climate to Florida but I figured that when its too hot to be on board then I would go somewhere else. Like a ski resort.... But that doesn't help the boat itself.

The boat needs to be closed up for security, so it gets pretty hot inside. A few folks in the marina have stuck window type AC in. They are liveaboards and I can see the sense in doing it as a temporary measure, but there is nowhere to store such a bulky unit if you actually wanted to go for a cruise. I am starting to think a split system might be better: put the external bit on the boat deck and have the internal part in the pilothouse. Leave all the internal doors open and the cold air sinks throughout the boat. It could be a fairly small and compact domestic unit. The inverter models are pretty energy efficient but I would plan on only using it at the dock, and a lot of the time unattended probably set to about 27C. Does anyone have any experience with these units on a boat?

The thought comes to mind as we are in a heatwave. Birdsville had 48.7C yesterday. About 120F. Brisbane is forecast for 41 on Sat. When its that hot the humidity is a bit less than normal, still it isn't nice. Getting out onto Moreton Bay for cooling sea breezes wont work. Winds up to 30 kn forecast for tomorrow also. We went over to Amity a few days ago, and although water was great, 20 kn does make it a bit unpleasant on board. So, sitting at home, with AC on, and wondering what others do to care for their boats in periods of extended heat.

[rw58ph]

We installed 4 domestic window AC that I made wood enclosures for that are butted up against port holes and/or salon windows. 6000 btu units in each of three staterooms, a 8000 btu in the salon and the boat came with a 10,000 btu on the pilot house roof. Since they are inside the boat they are usable with the boat underway or at dock. In the spring, fall and winter we have them on fan mode to circulate/clean the air. However, they can easily be removed. I just close the windows and port holes in the winter and leave them in place.

We also have see thru window covers and heavy thermal curtains for the pilot house and salon windows to keep the sun/heat out. The thermal curtains also help keep the heat in during the winter. We have also have fans in every rooms, pilot house, salon, and state rooms. If we need more AC, I would buy a couple of the domestic portable that has a hose out a window when needed.

[GordMay]

Guidelines for Selecting Air Conditioning For Your Boat
➥ http://www.marineair.com/QBank/EPiSe...-Web_15237.pdf

➥ Chiller and Split Systems vs Self Contained Marine A/C

➥ Air Conditioners for Boats And What

[Hudson Force]

When we leave our boat closed for periods of time during the warmer times in Florida our greatest concern is with molds that can grow, particularly with the high humidity. We have nothing that can be harmed by the interior heat other than some plants that we remove. Our solution is to close and lock the boat with a few bags of "Damp-rid" hanging below. The desiccant is calcium chloride and is very effictive.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by Insequent

In my refit I decided against AC. Yes, Queensland has a similar climate to Florida but I figured that when its too hot to be on board then I would go somewhere else. Like a ski resort.... But that doesn't help the boat itself.

Perhaps one option is to simply revisit that initial decision? Some good to be said about humidity control via marine aircon... and if installed, it probably doesn't create "temporary stowage" problems.

-Chris

[darylat8750]

I installed 2 domestic type mini splits on my Ocean Alex. I put the compressor units in the front area of the fly bridge. I draw air through louvers on each side of the wheel to the general enclosed area. The compressor units are placed so ducts take the hot air and expels it through louvers out side of the FB. The condensers can go anywhere it makes sense and you can run 2 flexible insulated copper tubes and 4 wires. I ran mine down to the engine room through a teak box between two windows in the salon. One condenser in the main salon and one on the back wall of the aft master suite. Works really well and it doesn't pump water through the boat which eases my mind when left unattended. The single most expensive part was the custom SS louvers. The area I needed and the space available was such that over the counter parts would not do the job. The ducting inside the FB was bent up by a local sheet metal shop out of SS. Works great. Friends are amazed at how quiet the units are. On mine the power supply goes to the interior units first then to the compressors. I didn't realize that when I started the install and wound up doing some extra work....There is some spray stuff that motels located near the ocean use on their ac units. I sprayed my "outside" units with that stuff and have no rust after 3 years. Overall very happy with the units.

[Morrissey]

Thanks for the good input folks.

Although the window units are simple, I dont want to surrender the internal space that you have Phil, or block walkways outside.

If I go with a split system I'll need a professional instal for the gassing. On reflection, if I am going to go with AC then I ought to do it properly. I can probably put the compressor in a similar location to Daryl's. But getting copper tubes from there to salon or main stateroom would be a challenge. The flexible propane line was bad enough to do.

I had been googling a bit and had looked at the Dometic material, but thanks for your links Gord. I am a bit tempted by the aircooled DuraSea rooftop unit. I have to check dimensions to see if it can fit the pilothouse hatch. It would be sandwiched between a couple of raised solar panels, and aesthetics would be tolerable.

But the other option is to get some solar or 12v slow turning large diameter fans, mount them in both my hatch openings in a ply structure the will keep rain out. If I can locate the fans without too much trouble I'll try this first.

There were still traces of mold on the boat when I bought it. Clearly there had been a major issue, and a huge cleanup to be able to put the boat up for sale. I found some traces in hard-to-get-to spots during my refit. The refit had us working on everything from stem to stern, and i doubt that there would be more than a few square inches that has not been scrubbed with Chlorox. But remnant spores might remain, and I do not want a re-occurrence. That stuff can kill you.

I will see how I manage living, and particularly sleeping, in these warmer months when I am aboard. Selling my house at present also, so cant use the boat as often as I would like just yet. Most long term residents in Queensland, myself included, only use AC as a last resort for periods of extreme heat. Such as now. 'Highest on record' temps have been occurring recently, could be Brisbane's turn today. I'm going up to the boat now for a bit to see how much of a hotbox it has become with a few days of high temp.

[Hudson Force]

I had submitted my earlier response with the thought that you were leaving the boat without occupancy as someone would winterize a boat while not in use. When I am using my boat in the high temperature and high humidity Florida environment, then I'm running my marine air conditioners that exchange heat with the water. This method is far more efficient that echanging the heat with the air.

[gonesail]

i found it is better to leave the boat closed up in Florida rather than pull in any humid outside air. we never had a mold problem. also you can check into the marine dehumidifiers that might help. i do not like to leave air conditioning on when i am away from the vessel.

[Mirage Gecko]

Thought about Caravan roof top air cons ? We have an Ibis unit on the roof of our van that works extremely well in outback and tropical NQ also will run from Honda 2 genny. Have seen plenty of household split systems especially on commercial boats and at current prices probably make a good alternative to a marine installation.
Like you I am sitting at home thinking of going down to the marina to check on the hotbox but will probably stay home and watch the cricket instead.Far to windy and rolly on Moreton at the moment.
Chris

[Morrissey]

Originally Posted by CaptForce

I had submitted my earlier response with the thought that you were leaving the boat without occupancy as someone would winterize a boat while not in use. When I am using my boat in the high temperature and high humidity Florida environment, then I'm running my marine air conditioners that exchange heat with the water. This method is far more efficient that exchanging the heat with the air.

Sorry for the confusion. It is a bit of both. Originally my concern was having a hotbox growing mold while I was away. I just got back from the boat. At 9am it was 32C inside with 65% humidity. Outside a bit over 35C. But sleeping areas were cooler. The sole is below waterline in those areas, and I left the ports open wide in those areas also. Both factor will have helped. I think if I can suck some air out of the hatches it should be even better.

Then I referred to being cool enough to sleep. I really struggle to sleep when its hot and humid. I figured that I would just not use the boat in those conditions. And if 20+ kn of wind continues, like most of the time over the last few weeks then alternative activity makes sense. But if for shoulder seasons, a cooling option would be nice. That led me to think about AC, with an initial though of running it while absent. Having read some posts and reflected on it, I now realise wouldn't want AC running if I was away from the boat for any significant time. Some DC fans with a fuse only just big enough to start and run them is my limit. So two different issues and I think two different solutions.

If I move each of my two lower solar panels outboard by 3/4" I can fit the outside part of the DuraSea unit in, and because of the location it wont stick out like a sore thumb. Indeed, It would blend in quite well. But the internal part will need to fit inside the wood lined hatchway so as to not be a hazard for bumping my head into. Not sure if it will. If I do go with a rooftop unit then a caravan or truck unit might give more size options and be OK with a bit of DIY protection.

[darylat8750]

I picked the brand and size of my mini splits based what outside unit would fit under my fly bridge. I don't know how much room is in your rap around fiberglass in front of your house (I can't spell Portagee ) but if one would fit there it would be easy to get the lines to the sleeping cabins below. The instal is not rocket science. I did everything except charging the system with normal cruiser type skills. One thing that is important is that you figure out where the condensed water is going to go. The one in my salon is close to a shower so I run it to the shower sump to be pumped overboard. The unit in the bedroom goes to my fresh water tank. (I clean and disinfect the collection pan and lines every 2 weeks.) It makes several gallons of water a day when you are going in and out a lot.

I was told by a long time boat owner in FL that if you put several open containers of vinegar in your boat when leaving it closed up that the evaporating vinegar makes the atmosphere in the boat too acidic for mold. I've done this for several years, leaving one small container in each area when leaving the boat. I often leave the boat for one to three months at a time and so far so good....