I Gotta Leak

[BlackOak]

1971 Seafarer 34, gotta a leaky leak coming from this big green nut. Not sure how to go about tightening it up. Will I need a special tool? Will I need TWO wrenches? How to get that big green nut loosened up so I can turn it? and finally, does the 'Lefty Loosey - Righty Tighty" apply to sailboats? Yes people I am an IDIOT who should never been allowed to own, let alone be on a sailing vessel.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Heya Black Oak...

Hope things are well... That's your shaft log and packing gland... Just google it, or TONS of info here for sure... Yes... you should be able to tighten it just a smigde to reduce flow, but it NEEEEEDS to have a few drips per minute to cool and lubricate the shaft... Over -tightening is the most common and worst thing you can do... You will wear out the packing and worse... Your shaft! It should NOT be any hotter than slightly warm to the touch after motoring for a bit... Special spanners (wrenches) work best, but pipe wrenches and channel locks will do in a pinch...

[Mattyb]

Everything must be learned just loosen the rear nut which is the locking nut clockwise if you are facing the way the pic was taken then just tighten the main nut the same way until u only get one drip every minute or so the back the lock nut on to it. You cant go too wrong . I remember I was freaking out the first timeidid it onmy first boat

[GordMay]

See Main Sail’s excellent How To Article - “Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box”
➥ Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

[Steve W]

Since this is your first time dealing with this, take care not to turn the stuffing box hose by using a single wrench. It could rip open if it is old and that will ruin your whole day. I use two wrenches to prevent from twisting the hose, one on each nut (opposing each other) to break them loose, gently tighten stuffing box nut, then use the two wrenches to tighten lock nut.

[BlackOak]

Thanks for the info and link! Gonna give it a shot when it cools down here.

[s/v Jedi]

Originally Posted by GordMay

See Main Sail’s excellent How To Article - “Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box”
➥ Re-Packing A Traditional Stuffing Box Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

+1, time to tackle this and replace the packing. This is one of the crucial systems aboard that you want to exactly know how it works and maintain it at maximum level.

Many people are too scared to touch it, resulting in no maintenance done and likely disaster later.

Also: this is one of the things to carry those emergency epoxy sticks for. When all else fails, knead one thoroughly, take it overboard and put it around the shaft, pressing it into the space between shaft and hull/shaft log. You can follow it with more or with strips of T-shirt etc. which should reduce the water ingress enough to deal with it.

[haw1961]

All good advice above. Just don't go crazy on it. Nice and gentle about 1 drip for every 30 sec. Good luck. Don't break.

[zeehag]

how bad is leak?? is supposed to drip a little, but not like 3 kids on crack after a case or two of beer peeing into the bilge, , as mine used to do , and occasionally still does....
if the packing is gone, add new. if the nut needs to be turned, do that. if you need to change packing to something not leaky, do that---i did that in my ericson-changed to dripless packing, and have been most happy with a dry bilge. now, this boat.......rodlmao....

btw--is ok to spray the joint with pb blaster or some lube stuff. wont kill it--is bronze.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by BlackOak

Thanks for the info and link! Gonna give it a shot when it cools down here.

It's not rocket science... You have tackled much tougher boaty things already! Just take it slow and easy... Although some muscle is going to be needed... As mentioned, use penetrating oil, PBS, WD40 or any other "unstick the stuck bolt" spray like holy water.... Let us know how it goes bud!

[Charlie]

Hi BlackOak:

I think you would be well served by purchasing Nigel Calders book http://www.amazon.com/Boatowners-Mec.../dp/0071432388 There is a little bit about most boat systems in there. People will tell you lots of different things about how much the packing gland will leak. You will hear different things from different well respected people. After digesting everyone's opinions I came up with this solution: 1) the purpose of the packing gland is to cool the propeller shaft. 2) The ability to cool the prop shaft depends on the temp of the water. This led me to conclude that there are different amounts of water that should leak depending on the situation such as: 1) what kind of flax is used 2) the amount of sediment in the water and 3) the size of the prop shaft. I would start with one drop every 20 seconds and then test to see how hot the shaft is when running in gear for a while. If it is too warm or very cold increase or decrease accordingly. Good luck with it.

[minaret]

Given the thread title, I was just gonna suggest that the OP quit drinking so much beer!

[Seaworthy Lass]

Originally Posted by minaret

Given the thread title, I was just gonna suggest that the OP quit drinking so much beer!

And I was wondering how Zee managed to stop her 3 kids peeing in the bilge after a case or two of the stuff!

Originally Posted by zeehag

how bad is leak?? is supposed to drip a little, but not like 3 kids on crack after a case or two of beer peeing into the bilge, , as mine used to do...

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Seaworthy Lass

And I was wondering how Zee managed to stop her 3 kids peeing in the bilge after a case or two of the stuff!

I was afraid to ask why she has three beer swilling kids on crack peeing in her bilge myself!

[BlackOak]

Happy to say, we have no Leaky Leak onboard the S/V ANA. After 2 days of thinking about it, reading up on it, listening to YALL, staring at it, and finally man'ing up to the task, I went ahead and fixed the dern thing. Wasnt as bad as I thought it would be, and barely leaked in any water while making the repair. What a load off my mind! I cranked up the motor and spun up the RPM in reverse, and forward after fixing it and I can report all is well. I am extremely thrilled not to have to haul it out to repair.

Thanks Yall for your advice!