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Old 30-03-2010, 04:11   #1
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Hunter 27 Stuffing Box Problems

Here is my stuffing box



I think I have it labeled correctly, but it is stuck fast. I carefully put some PB Blaster on it yesterday to see if I can crack that lock nut free, and if that doesn't work I will try a little heat. My question is, looking at the amount of free space behind the actually packing nut, even if I do get it freed, it doesn't look like I will be able to back it off far enough to replace the packing.

Does anyone els have any experience with a smaller boat (Hunter 27) packing replacement project?

Is the little hole on the right end of the shaft near the coupling a taper pin or something that would allow me to remove the shaft without taking the coupling off?

Thanks.
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Old 30-03-2010, 05:50   #2
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Ahoy Greenman, I have the same problem in my adams 31' sloop, though it doesn't look as ugly as above! The solution is to remove the engine coupling and slide the prop shaft out enough to clear the end of the packing nut and remove it and repack the flax, whatever, then put it all back together.

Or move the motor forward and put in a longer prop shaft,!

cheers from Keith.
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Old 30-03-2010, 06:07   #3
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You might create just enough room if you remove the red anit-vibration spacer and slide the prop side of the coupling toward the engine. I've noticed several Hunter owners complaining about this problem on their website and it is not just the 27. As Keith said, most either seperate the shaft from the coupling or move the engine forward. Kind of ridiculous that they built it like that. Once you have it apart, maybe shortening the stuffing box hose (or threaded area) will be an option. Also, you might want to consider double clamps on the hose. I noticed a hole on the coupling; are you missing the bolt that holds the shaft in the coupling?
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Old 30-03-2010, 06:59   #4
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Hmm, that sucks. As for the hole, it is filled, but I will have to take a better look at it. Something is weird in that set up.
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Old 30-03-2010, 07:05   #5
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you may be looking at a stuffing box that has not been touched in over 30 years. i would replace the stuffing box and get rid of the red spacer.
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Old 30-03-2010, 07:24   #6
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I'd certainly be wanting to look at that single hose clip arrangement and probably replacing the hose while I'm at it.

Greenman, you're not trying to do this in the water are you ?

FWIW, entire new stuffing boxes at Jamestown distributors are remarkably inexpensive.

Duncan
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Old 30-03-2010, 09:01   #7
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This is the highest priority job I have before we launch. I was really hoping it wouldn't turn into a nightmare. Which it is. PB Blaster didn't touch it, now I am thinking I will have to pull the prop shaft, which I also think means dropping the rudder. Damn.
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Old 30-03-2010, 16:02   #8
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That red "spacer" is a drive saver. It will absorb shock and vibration. I wouldn't remove it if it were my boat. Good luck with the stuffing box.
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Old 30-03-2010, 16:34   #9
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Hole!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenman View Post

Is the little hole on the right end of the shaft near the coupling a taper pin or something that would allow me to remove the shaft without taking the coupling off?

Thanks.
I would take a good look at the little hole. My Cascade/ Yanmar combination has 3 bolts at 120 degrees that center the shaft there.

Even if you donít have a centering bolt system, I would think that you would have a bolt holding it on there. If its threaded make sure your not missing the bolt.

If itís a pin of some sort it looks like its pushed in to far and too short. You would think a pin would be flush and on both sides of the coupling. How could you ever drive it out?

If itís only one side and/or threaded measure the depth and check it against the shaft depth.

My bet is your missing a bolt that holds your shaft in place!
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Old 30-03-2010, 17:00   #10
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Mark the Flange on shaft, drivesaver and output.

Pulloff drivesaver....put an arrow on it to show forward.

You should be able to slide the shaft forward.....if the zinc is not too close to the strut.

Now for the secret....taught to me years ago....get two large hammers.....simultaneously give the nuts a sharp rap two or three times......with hammers hitting on opposing sides

Try turning the locking nut first with a good wrench ...... not one of those so-called stuffing box wrenches (which are just chinese made plumbing tools.

If this works you can send a small gratuity to............
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Old 03-04-2010, 07:35   #11
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I would not like to have your "nightmare" but it is not an impossible situation.
For the nut/locknut I would use two spanners (you call them wrenches?) of the correct size and suitable levers after sizzling it all with a blow torch if you want to have the satisfaction that you were not defeated.

You can also do away with the idea of the stuffing box altogether as I have done with my own boat.

Fit a shaft seal instead. Mine is a Volvo. It does not last forever but then what does?
It needs to be changed every five years or so.

If you don't know what I'm talking about have a look at this

Cannot say for sure but the 'hole" on the coupling is probably filled with 2/3 split pins as I had on my Gib'Sea 364. There should be the exact same hole on the other side of the coupling. If this is the case you need a punch or a steel rod the exact size of the diameter of the hole and a heavy hammer, to free your prop shaft, which must slide back for the stuffing box to come out and the seal to be fitted.

It is easier doing it than talking about it.
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