Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

[Rustic Charm]

This week following my boat being sandblasted tomorrow, I'll be using the Norglass products consisting of 3 coats of two pac rust proof primer, then a coat of two pac top primer, fairing where needed, then another two pac high build primer.

When I do the top sides it will be a single pack gloss. Which I intend to put on with a roller and tipping using a paint brush. Two coats.

Can someone give me advice on what sort of roller to use with both paints? I know some rollers of foam will melt with the two pack products. The guy at Bunnings paint shop didn't seem to have a clue.

[Reefmagnet]

Why on earth would you use a single pack top coat over 2 packs? If you use industrial 2 pack paints they are cheap and do a good job. And, yes, they can be touched up and are recoatable. I've used Jotun paints in the past.

You might need to try a couple of different types of foam rollers. In my experience (with two packs) they'll usually give fair warning that they are failing (they start to go floppy). With rolling and tipping you might also need more than 2 coats because the paint has to be super-thinned if you want the sprayed finish look. On the last boat I rolled and tipped, something like 6 coats were required.

[sy_gilana]

Short nap roller with Mohair and Phenolic core.

[jcapo]

Several folks in the boat yard last year were using Whiz rollers with very good results. Don't know if you can get them down under.

Foam Roller

[model 10]

That is a lot of paint, will you be sanding? If you sand the final high build primer and end up with a nice surface. use good quality little hot dog rollers for the top coat. You will need to thin the paint to about spray viscosity and put it on very thin but if you do, it can come out better than a lot of tipping jobs. However if it ain't smooth, might as well stick to the big rollers.

[Wotname]

Re: single pack topsides; if you are going to roll and tip, then IME, do the following.

Presumably solvent (turps) based epoxy modified single pack like Killrust Topcoat or equivalent (although some the equivalents I've used are not so equivalent ).

It's a two person job (minimum)!
Have all stands and planks setup.
15 to 25 degrees C with 18 to 20 being perfect.
NO DIRECT SUNLIGHT - MUST be cloudy or shaded.
Don't thin paint, use direct from can.
Paint should be same temperature as surface.
One person rolls, the other tips. Work together. IME this is not a job to involve the wife but YMMV.
Ideally a third person is available to be the gofer.

IMO, if you can't ensure most of the above condition, especially the temp. and shade and two people, then just roll only or if you need a better finish, spray. A good roll job looks OK up close and just as good as anything a month later and from 10 metres.

I use and like short nap (6 or 5 mm) synthetic mohair rollers but other like foam especially if not tipping. For tipping I use a Purdy synthetic brush but I think the modern synthetic cheaper brushes are just as good. The main thing about a Purdey is that the cost of them makes you want look after them .

[Terra Nova]

Finishing is not my specialty. But I believe 2-part paints are typically much longer lasting and often produce superior gloss. Perhaps you prefer 1-part because it facilitates touch-ups.

[Rustic Charm]

Thanks everyone for your responses. I've been a bit slow in responding as I've been out getting her ready for the sand blasting that's going ahead in the morning. I'll start painting on Tuesday I believe.

Reefmagnet - Norglass tech people recommended use the single pack Weatherfast Premium Enamel as it's easier to repair if I ding it. Two pack's like Tera Nova suggested is harder wearing and will retain it's gloss longer, but it would be harder to fix up.

Whilst I'm not anticipating running in to anything (hoping not too ) the jetty's I mainly use at my yacht club where I'm moored is fairly hard and even the rubber edges or whatever they are leave marks. And whilst I intend to get a number of replacement funders and try to look after it, I wouldn't mind betting I'll have some sort of ding involving a jetty inside a year.

The Premium Enamel is made to go onto the two pack Shipshape Primer-Undercoat too.

Mohair and Phenolic core. thanks.

And Guy, I thought it was a lot of paint too. But Norglass recommended I stick to the specs and three coats of red oxide is what it calls for to get the seal from the steel. I'm hoping I won't need much fairing.

And thanks Wotname, yes, my adult son is going to help me. I thought when it comes time for the 'tipping', one of us can roll and the other 'tip'. I've never done this before but with Norglass Premium Enamel it's meant to be pretty good and doesn't need thinning.

Thanks all. I again asked at Bunnings today, different guy. These 'paint' salesman are meant to be in the 'know', and I got another one today who had no idea what I was talking about and said, 'any roller will do'.. Well, I know I tried to use foam last year and they melted.

[Snowpetrel]

Personally for your boat rc, I'd look at just rolling it on with a nice short nap roller. On a simple less than perfectly faired steel boat high gloss is your enemy, showing up any unfairness in the bog job like a sore thumb.

The first time I repainted SnowPetrel she was sprayed with a high gloss polyurethane. It looked terrible! I went over it with a heavily flattened coat straight from a roller. Much better, magically all the little bumps and hollows disappeared. So if it was me I wouldn't get to hung up on the high gloss part. Aim for a ten foot Finish, ie one that looks fine from ten feet away.

Sent from my HTC_0PCV2 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Snowpetrel

Personally for your boat rc, I'd look at just rolling it on with a nice short nap roller. On a simple less than perfectly faired steel boat high gloss is your enemy, showing up any unfairness in the bog job like a sore thumb.

The first time I repainted SnowPetrel she was sprayed with a high gloss polyurethane. It looked terrible! I went over it with a heavily flattened coat straight from a roller. Much better, magically all the little bumps and hollows disappeared. So if it was me I wouldn't get to hung up on the high gloss part. Aim for a ten foot Finish, ie one that looks fine from ten feet away.

Sent from my HTC_0PCV2 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

So, which paint are you recommending? The enamel is less gloss than the two pack?

I've finally got a response today via fb to my question about roller type, which is the same recommendation as you guys. But I'm really surprised that a different dude at 'Norglass' is recommending to me the two pack top coat . He's asked me to ring him in the morning which I'll definitely do.

[Snowpetrel]

Also concentrate your fairing work on the chine. Any wobbles in it ruin the line of the boat much more than anything else except the waterline or sheer.

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[Pelagic]

Rustic...deciding on one or two part paint ...all depends on what standard of finish you will settle for and whether you are prepared to keep applying polish to protect a one part.

On my steel boat I always use a good quality 2 part whose gloss retention and depth of gloss is the best.

Awlgrip 8 years ago and this year I used AlexSeal.

They have far superior rolling thinners and an application with a foam mini roller (Stanley) will provide a seamless finish that does not need any tipping (except where the roller won't fit).

Here's how we do it with one or two rollers/they share an artist brush for tipping/and one spotter......replacing the foam rollers about every 10 minutes.

Plus barge handlers if doing in water

Personally I like doing the painting in water...much less dust from traffic and you can get a flawless finish

[Wotname]

^^ very nice Pelagic

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Pelagic

Rustic...deciding on one or two part paint ...all depends on what standard of finish you will settle for and whether you are prepared to keep applying polish to protect a one part.

On my steel boat I always use a good quality 2 part whose gloss retention and depth of gloss is the best.

Awlgrip 8 years ago and this year I used AlexSeal.

They have far superior rolling thinners and an application with a foam mini roller (Stanley) will provide a seamless finish that does not need any tipping (except where the roller won't fit).

Here's how we do it with one or two rollers/they share an artist brush for tipping/and one spotter......replacing the foam rollers about every 10 minutes.

Plus barge handlers if doing in water

Personally I like doing the painting in water...much less dust from traffic and you can get a flawless finish

Thanks I didn't know you had to polish single pack
But then I didn't think of painting it in the water either :
And a lovely lady you have there. I'm green.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Snowpetrel

Also concentrate your fairing work on the chine. Any wobbles in it ruin the line of the boat much more than anything else except the waterline or sheer.

Sent from my HTC_0PCV2 using Cruisers Sailing Forum mobile app

another good idea. I'll look at that too.

Which paint do you recommend then? The two or single pack for mine?