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Old 25-11-2015, 04:21   #121
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

Taking a slightly different approach... What about dropping a closely size-matched poly tank into the spot that currently forms the fuel tank? I have been pleasantly surprised at the prices I was quoted and many of the suppliers offered to put as many pickups, breathers, fillers and return line fittings on the tank as I wanted at little extra cost.

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Old 25-11-2015, 04:38   #122
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

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Originally Posted by GILow View Post
Taking a slightly different approach... What about dropping a closely size-matched poly tank into the spot that currently forms the fuel tank? I have been pleasantly surprised at the prices I was quoted and many of the suppliers offered to put as many pickups, breathers, fillers and return line fittings on the tank as I wanted at little extra cost.

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It's not possible with mine. Look at the photos and the diagram. My tank is narrow and in three sections with a cross bar in it.
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Old 25-11-2015, 04:40   #123
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

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Originally Posted by GILow View Post
Taking a slightly different approach... What about dropping a closely size-matched poly tank into the spot that currently forms the fuel tank? I have been pleasantly surprised at the prices I was quoted and many of the suppliers offered to put as many pickups, breathers, fillers and return line fittings on the tank as I wanted at little extra cost.

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The other issue with this is you run the risk of moisture (and subsequently rust) forming between the poly tank and the steel hull. At least with integral tanks, the diesel works to protect the steel.

In saying that, we have poly for our waste tank and couldn't be happier

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Old 25-11-2015, 08:53   #124
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

Water can enter the fuel tank when you buy contaminated fuel. But it usually enters through the vent line, along with moist air, and condenses on the walls of the tank.

Where the tank's bottom is accessible, I have the tank builder install a sump consisting of a short ~2"npt nipple with a bell reducer down to ~1/4"npt, for a ball valve. Where tank access does not allow for a gravity sump drain, it is essential to provide a pickup tube. Also large clean-outs in the top or sides of the tank, for periodically going in with a mop.
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Old 25-11-2015, 19:02   #125
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

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The other issue with this is you run the risk of moisture (and subsequently rust) forming between the poly tank and the steel hull. At least with integral tanks, the diesel works to protect the steel.
Note to self: "Seek advice and training before buying a steel boat."

Just as well I have a frozen-snot boat, I might have got myself into trouble by now.
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Old 25-11-2015, 19:33   #126
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

Ahh, it's not all bad, just remember they rot from the inside. The bilge needs to be clean enough to eat from..

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Old 25-11-2015, 19:58   #127
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

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Ahh, it's not all bad, just remember they rot from the inside. The bilge needs to be clean enough to eat from..
Oh... so not like this then...?
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Old 25-11-2015, 22:09   #128
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

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Oh... so not like this then...?
That looks like mine when I purchased her
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Old 25-11-2015, 22:27   #129
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

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That looks like mine when I purchased her
Well, I sincerely hope you soon get to do what I do, which is, from time to time, just open the access panels to that part of the boat and stare lovingly at the clean painted bilge... and sigh a little.

(Though hopefully not do what I did last weekend, and wonder where the heck all that water came from . 1400 litres to pump out due to a serious brain-fart!)
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Old 25-11-2015, 22:30   #130
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

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Well, I sincerely hope you soon get to do what I do, which is, from time to time, just open the access panels to that part of the boat and stare lovingly at the clean painted bilge... and sigh a little.

(Though hopefully not do what I did last weekend, and wonder where the heck all that water came from . 1400 litres to pump out due to a serious brain-fart!)
My Bilge it self is small and filthy, though I have now clean it out and prepared it for painting.

My area under the floor boards looked like yours picture here though when I first bought it. The whole length of the boat. It was the first job I did, to strip it, karcher it and then paint it.
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Old 25-11-2015, 22:46   #131
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

Well, there's a lot to be said for a small bilge, particularly when the large bilge is full of this sort of stuff...
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Old 26-11-2015, 02:40   #132
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

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…...

My fuel tube is copper piping. Is there a reason you have suggested stainless instead?
Prolly because SS is best practice

There is a certain body of thought that copper causes diesel to go "bad". I'm not sure I subscribe to it!

There is a fair bit of concern in the diesel storage industry that copper and zinc are both nonos but plenty of people (including myself) have used copper fuel lines and I once had a copper fuel tank (diesel). Never seemed to be a problem.

Perhaps it becomes more of an issue where storage is name of the game as opposed fresh fuel going into a tank and shortly after (i.e. within months) into the engine.

To my mind, a copper drain tube is waaay better than no drain tube!

And it is far easier to work for the handyman (but not dissing you RC)!
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Old 28-12-2015, 02:13   #133
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

Hi guys, thought I'd post a couple pix of where I'm up too. I've been hit with weather that was way too hot, to rain and wind which has slowed me down. I've now got nine days off work and so I'm back into it.

These photos I did today. So, what I have is three coats or (2 pk) red oxide, then two coats of a primer (2 pk), then I put a filler, called norfil, to start filling up some of the dents. Now, I'm not trying to fill up panels as two of the panels would mean I'd have to fill 19mm over a meter to do that. So, all iMessage doing is filling in dents and making it look smooth. The norfil is not like a body filler I've seen before. It's water clean up, and starts drying to a substance like chewing gum after a few hours. After 24 hrs it is ready for sanding, though it takes 7 days to fully cure. It's non sag and is designed for use under the water.

What you see is after I've sanded back the filled bits. In some places I have rubbed it back to the bare metal, so tomorrow I'm going to have to put another two coats of red oxide over those spots. I've also decided to finish off with two more coats of primer all over. That's because I'm not confident the 3 coats of red oxide I put on are thick enough.

(Sorry, prob with photos, I'll put them up shortly)
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Old 28-12-2015, 02:34   #134
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

I also accidently found another hole in my bilge which went into a cavity above my keel so now I have to fix that as well
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Old 28-12-2015, 02:35   #135
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Re: Hull painting with Roller and Tipping

Last one.
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