Hull Paint

[andreavanduyn]

We have a 24 year old Tashing which needs a new coating on the hull

We are currently in Baltimore and as Europeans do not know the way well yet.

First impression is that it is not cheap here; especially since our euro lost 20%

We intend to go to Lakes or stay and go end season to Carib
What would be a good place to have the hull sprayed professionally?

Eric
Orion 50'

[skipmac]

In my experience the north east US, especially New England, is the most expensive part of the country for boat work. In general from Maryland south to middle Florida is where you would find lower costs. I am not familiar with prices in the Great Lakes.

Please understand that these are general suggestions and guidelines. Someone may know of a boat yard in the north east that offers deals and you can find a very expensive boat yard anywhere in the country.

[tager]

If it is all for vanity why not go to the expensive yard and get the expensive paint job? Topsides paint doesn't really serve any purpose beside protecting the gelcoat from UV.

[CharlieCobra]

Being on the West coast and painting boats here, all I can offer is technical assistance. I don't know any of the available facilities on the East coast at all.

[De Captain]

Originally Posted by CharlieCobra

... painting boats here, all I can offer is technical assistance...

As a live aboard sailor of 9 yrs, aboard a 28 year old 41' ketch that was awlgripped in 1999 but is in desperate need of a paint job, I would love to read a write up of technical info for those of us needing a new paint job.

I am interested in info on having it professionally done as well as the feasibility of rolling & tipping for someone with reasonable paint skills.

I am also interested in product info, such as, given that it was awlgripped before but the awlgrip is very worn could i go over it with something like easypoxy instead? would you recommend that?

The boat looks bad because my 2006 circumnavigation wrecked the paint & I want it to look nice again but I don't want to spend a lot since I plan to head off on another circumnavigation.

Any advice would be appreciated.

[CharlieCobra]

The key to paint compatibility is like over like. Two part over two part and one part over one part. While you can put one part (enamel etc) over two part, you cannot put two part over one part since the solvents penetrate all the way to the primer and will blister, bubble and lift. If your boat is old gelcoat, using an epoxy primer over it after fairing out scratches and pinholes followed by the two part paint of your choice is fine. There are a few types of two part paints.

1. Acrylic polyurethanes ( soft and buffable like Imron) These paints offer great gloss, can be touched up but low chemical resistance.
2. Linear polyurethanes (also buffable like Awlcraft and Proline4800) Great gloss, average hardness, can be touched up and good chemical resistance.
3. Alphilydic (sp) polyurethanes (Awlgrip, Alexseal and Pratt &Lambert) which are harder, not buffable and have superior chemical and abrasion resistance. These paints are impossible to touch up or buff.

I can't give information on the Interlux or Petit paints as I've not used them. See the data sheets or talk to a rep.

Preparation is the key to any paint job. Using anything with a lower grit than 800 for final sanding will show through a spray job, refract light and give a dull, cloudy appearance.

If roll and tipping, it doesn't really matter about sanding as much and grits down to 400 can be used. I have yet to see a R&T job where the brush strokes don't show....

I cannot stress how important a good epoxy primer is. I would refuse a job if not allow to use one, no matter how much the owner was willing to pay....

[CharlieCobra]

In response for a question. Any two part epoxy primer would be sufficient over a 20 year old Taiwanese hull...

[moonie5961]

Charlie,

By "final sanding" do you mean the final sanding in the prep stage-before any paint is applied, or sanding between coats?

[CharlieCobra]

Final sanding of the epoxy primer prior to putting a topcoat on.

[marshmat]

Originally Posted by De Captain

... the feasibility of rolling & tipping for someone with reasonable paint skills.

It takes a bit of practice, but is easier than it sounds. Patience is the key; if you're willing to put in a few days to do it right, you can do a gorgeous job. If you try to rush a roll-and-tip job, it'll end up a drippy, distorted mess. It'll never look as good from six inches away as a professionally sprayed job, but from the distances we normally view our boats, nobody will tell the difference.

I am also interested in product info, such as, given that it was awlgripped before but the awlgrip is very worn could i go over it with something like easypoxy instead? would you recommend that?

Well, you COULD apply just about anything... but generally speaking, you'll have an easier time and get a longer-lived finish if you use a similar product to what was already there (no need to re-prime, etc. and no dissolving of the old paint by the new one's solvents). Awlgrip is pricey stuff, but the only alternatives of comparable quality are equally pricey. Of course, you might be happy with a shorter-lived, less glossy finish, in which case many new options come up at lower price points.