Hull Coating for the First Time

[landonshaw]

I am preparing to apply under coating to my boat. It previously had Sea Hawk Island 77; I am going to continue using the product.

The application instructions are below as follows:

Step 1. If previous coating is known compatible and in sound condition, scuff sand with 80 grit sandpaper.
Step 2. Clean and dry surface.
Step 3. Apply 2 coats of bottom paint with a third at waterline

Is there anything that I need to be aware of? I am going to have the hull pressure washed when I pull it and I will wear a mask while sanding.

I assume the coats are rolled on like painting a wall and a brush is used in corners.

[Hud3]

Along with a third coat at the waterline, I like to put one on the leading edges on the bow and the rudder, as well as where the prop wash hits the rudder.

[Talisker]

Wear gloves and long sleeves with duct tape cuffs while sanding.
I sanded down the hull of my boat two weeks ago wearing short sleeves
and I am still suffering with red rash on my arms.

[Just a Tinch]

I would recommend a tyvek body suit, with hood, or at a minimum a head sock, unvented goggles, chemical grade vinyl or other non-porous gloves, and a respirator with filters for organics.

I do my own bottom painting...and I can tell you that if you read the MSDS's for the chemicals present in bottom paints....you will take the precautions. The majority of chemicals in bottom paints are carcinogens...about the only thing in the paint that isn't a carcinogen is the talcum used to thicken the paint.

The only other thing I would recommend is using a sander with a vacuum, and depending on where you are it may be a requirement of the yard and the EPA. Also, when painting...I would wear the same items.

Here is the MSDS for that paint....

http://www.seahawkpaints.com/Pdf/MSD...ands77Plus.pdf

One other item..... when the can is open and painting has begun.... No smoking nearby or sources of ignition..... the paint contains petroleum distillates.

[landonshaw]

Wow, sounds like serious stuff. Thanks. I will use a total jump suit and gloves with mask. Did not think of hood, will add that to the outfit. Then through it all away.

[s/v Jedi]

Landonshaw: you're in Grenada, hire a guy in the yard for the job as you will make him happy, keep yourself healthy and it doesn't cost much compared to the price of the paint.

Yes, pressure wash thoroughly, stay with the boat and check they do it right. If at all possible, have them move the slings to pressure wash those spots too or scrub it immediately after they put your boat on it's stands. If that stuff dries out it's much harder.

If your paint is of the ablative type and the same as you already have, you can scrub with water and scotch-pad instead: no dust (I think it's better than sanding). After scrubbing/sanding, wash/rinse with just water and let it dry real good. Check for "blister like things" (can only see them after sanding/scrubbing and drying). These are probably just in/under the paint but remove them anyway. Put some layers of paint on these spots with a small brush (to fair them out) before painting the whole boat.

Painting: mix, mix and mix the paint again, use the paddle thinghy on your electric drill for that. Next, pour the complete can over into another can/container and scrape all the thick stuff out of the original can into the other one. Mix, mix and mix again. Did I mention to mix it well?

After the 2 1/2 layers are on (indeed the 3rd layer also on the leading edges of bow, keel and rudder plus the surface above and behind the prop), let it dry for at least 5 days before launching. The paint will last much longer that way. We use Islands 44 plus and it works well for 3 years when done this way.

cheers,
Nick.

[Talisker]

I would also recommend that you use solvent free paints. They cure much quicker, therefore less time out of the water. I had my boat slurry blast, they also took off some gel coat due to unsightly extremely small blisters. The laminate was then sealed with International Watertite (on recommendation of the yard), but in hindsight it would have been easier to apply Gelshield Plus and then filled the other areas. Then applied two primer coats of Hycote 152 and finished off with Copppercoat from Aquarius Marine. So I have calculated I must have a good 1 to 2mm 2-part epoxy. The data sheets showed a hard finish after 16 hours at 20°C and full chemical cure 7 days.

To see some pics go to

MobileMe Gallery
Esprit renovation

[Talisker]

BTW, the data sheet also says that Hycote can be applied whatever the humidity in the air, but it would certainly be advisable to buy a moisture guage to test the hull surface and make sure you don't start applying epoxy until the gauge shows less that 12%.

[s/v Jedi]

Talisker: want to buy my coppercoat? it's burried under my anti-fouling and didn't work at all in the tropics. I do think it works on higher lattitudes.

cheers,
Nick.

[Talisker]

I am not in any way recommending Coppercoat, as I am trying for the first time myself. I have also read conflicting reports of it's effectiveness in different parts of the world. But as one dutch charter fleet operator swears by it in the North Sea, I thought I might try it in the Baltic where my boat is moored.

I have not yet met anybody in Germany who uses it, probably because AM has no outlets in Germany, but I have noticed extensive use of copper based antifouling by another manufacturer.

The Baltic is considerably less salty than the North Sea or the tropics, this may be a factor too, in effectiveness.

When I pull the boat out in Autumn, I will report again!

Steve