Originally Posted by boden36
One of my basic rules with steel is never attach wood to it. It always causes trouble in the long run.
I would suggest you remove the boards, abrasive blast and coat the steel and leave it at that.
Ok, here's an update. I decided to pull the exterior wood and leave the interior
, which was way stupid because I set it on a fire a couple times welding, and then decided I needed to get to it for other reasons and seal it better. SO take a lesson from me and pull the wood before you weld. Sure it seems obvious but well...
So I decided to remove the aft wood completely and replace it with steel.
But I still have the same problem. the screws in the hatch are just about perfectly aligned to the vertical steel, so there's just no way to screw it down. this pic shows the 'error' the other corner is lined up to the edge.
So I've thought of a couple ideas. I could weld on a 1/4" piece of steel, and then drill/tap it and attach the hatch straight to it.
I thought about having a 'ring' water
cut to fit the hatch, and welding or riveting that on.
I could put on a top 'ring' of 1x2 teak
or Mahogany and attach the hatch to that. this seems easiest, but I'm reluctant to go that route
because I do tend to agree with Richard's comments.
OTOH, I think I really want "A" nice piece of mahogany on the boat. Given the boat's history
and how damned nice this hatch is, it seems like a nice place to do it. But I'm torn because of above, and money
is tight (I trashed most of the wood taking it off) and this seems the lease
durable long term.
ANd lastly, even just straight steel it looks OK, I just still can't figgure out what to do about the top ring and the 'trench' I made in the bedliner. If I put wood sides back on, that 'trench' would be a little easier to hide, but then I think do I want to 'hide' a potential moisture spot?