How to Make New Teak Look Old?

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by Tellie

Wait a few years. Works every time.

I'm too impatient to wait. I must have instant gratification.

[minaret]

If you've never used Teka, try it. It's like magic. Follow the instructions carefully. It will make your old teak look new and eat the hell out of your new teak. Do the scrub brush phase with a new stiff brush. Don't overdo it. You will be amazed!

[David M]

Originally Posted by skipmac

I was thinking about TEKA or something like that. But isn't the main ingredient of the Part A just caustic soda like David M mentioned? If correct then I can buy a TEKA kit for $25 or 6000 gallon tank truck of 50% caustic soda solution for $200/ton. Maybe I can order a sample.

Maybe offer to clean everyone in the marinas teak?

The two part teak kits have a detergent (Part A) and an acid (Part B). The detergent, which is generally alkali is applied first to clean the teak. The second part is an acid which is a solution of phosphoric acid which turns the teak brown.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by David M

Maybe offer to clean everyone in the marinas teak?

But then I'll have to quit my day job. However considering what it costs to get boat work done that might pay off.

Originally Posted by David M

The two part teak kits have a detergent (Part A) and an acid (Part B). The detergent, which is generally alkali is applied first to clean the teak. The second part is an acid which is a solution of phosphoric acid which turns the teak brown.

Some old time boat maintenance people in the past have talked about mixing up their own teak kits with various acids, alkalies and something (mineral oil?) for cheap teak maintenance.

But in this case I think the devil is in the details. The caustic cleaner is more than just NaOH, probably some surfactants, maybe some quats and some magic foofoo dust to make it work better. I know I have tried generic glyphosate (the active ingredient in Roundup). A fraction of the cost but it did not work as well as the real thing. Plus with my luck , if I tried to mix my own TEKA I'll make the solutions too strong and eat a hole in my hand, face or, even worse, the boat.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by minaret

If you've never used Teka, try it. It's like magic. Follow the instructions carefully. It will make your old teak look new and eat the hell out of your new teak. Do the scrub brush phase with a new stiff brush. Don't overdo it. You will be amazed!

Well since I was a non boat owner for 30 years I can't remember exactly all the different teak products I used back in the olden days. But if the boat yard expert recommends TEKA I am going to give it a go.

If it eats a hole in my boat I'm bringing it to you for a fix.

[GeoPowers]

Originally Posted by Tellie

Wait a few years. Works every time.

[hellosailor]

Acid clean, wire brush (BRASS not steel so there's no rust problem), power wash, what you need to do is eat away the softer material to leave the harder ridges tanding proud, the way aged teak is. And then be patient about letting the sun bleach it, or use a powerful UV light to bleach it, since a chemical (acid or bleach) will never quite match the UV bleaching.

I'd most strongly suggest experimenting on some scrap before trying to age in the piece that has been repaired.

Caustic soda: Would that be potash, i.e. what fireplace ash and lime?

Instant gratification: PAINT!

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by hellosailor

what you need to do is eat away the softer material to leave the harder ridges tanding proud, the way aged teak is.

Exactly.

Originally Posted by hellosailor

And then be patient about letting the sun bleach it, or use a powerful UV light to bleach it, since a chemical (acid or bleach) will never quite match the UV bleaching.

Yes I doubt I will get a perfect match by my artificial aging, just want to get something close. Then let sunlight and time do the rest.

Originally Posted by hellosailor

I'd most strongly suggest experimenting on some scrap before trying to age in the piece that has been repaired.

Since I spent a good bit of time cutting a piece to perfectly fit the gap in the rail you can bet I'll be experimenting on the leftovers before I mess with the real thing. Along the same lines as the old measure twice, cut once philosophy.

Originally Posted by hellosailor

Instant gratification: PAINT!

Please. You are tempting me to cross over to the dark side. That thought has already occurred to me but I'm trying to be strong.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by GeoPowers

Well it took 30 years for the old teak to look the way it does now. Not sure if I can wait quite that long for the new stuff.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by David M

Maybe offer to clean everyone in the marinas teak?

The two part teak kits have a detergent (Part A) and an acid (Part B). The detergent, which is generally alkali is applied first to clean the teak. The second part is an acid which is a solution of phosphoric acid which turns the teak brown.

There's a recent thread here on making yer own Teka. It's actually two different powerful acids, one of which is phosphoric, which cancel each other out. You pour acid A on a wet deck and scrub it in, then let it sit for about a minute. The deck will turn dark black and scads of filthy brown crap will stain all your paintwork, totally freaking you out. This is good. Then you pour on acid B, which totally neutralizes acid A, instantly removing all staining and turning your teak brand new golden brown. If you haven't seen it before you will be blown away by the rivers of filth the hose washes away. Better living through chemistry. For more abrasive effect let part A sit longer before applying part B, and brush more with a stiffer brush. Experienced pros buy one gallon of part A and two of part B, as you tend to use more of it to thoroughly neutralize all the A and make all staining totally disappear. Wear serious protection and keep some B handy with loads of water to neutralize any exposure burns. Think that scene in "Fight Club".

[hellosailor]

You can't neutralize an acid with an acid, so one of the parts has to be an alkali. Which could be a simple caustic like lye. I took a look online for an MSDS and only found "Teka" is a name for many things, no teak cleaner company popped up.

[Astrid]

Ah do it the old way. Put in your new teak piece, get a block of sandstone, and holystone the surrounding planks until they all match.

[minaret]

Sorry, TE-KA, just hard to type on a phone. I got it in one.


Marine Tex, epoxy resin, adhesives, silicone grease, engine treatment, cleaner, repair, bond, fill, seal, fiberglass, aluminum, plastics, Starboard, wood


Do a search here too.

[Therapy]

I say just use a brush (metal) and then let the sun start on it.

You have to have some other things to do than dwell over a 2ft section of teak rail.

Or..............

Tie a kayak to the stanchions so you can't see it - out of sight etc.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by Astrid

Ah do it the old way. Put in your new teak piece, get a block of sandstone, and holystone the surrounding planks until they all match.

A holy stone is a small (bible sized) stone for dressing edges. What you really want for authenticity and the smell of pine-tar is a bear. This is a large stone weighing a couple hundredweight, hauled back and forth on deck by teams of men with lines.