Help Please on two questions about Seacocks

[MV-Romnya]

All of you have helped to fix my overheating problem and raw water intake issues - now I need some advice on seacocks.
1. I am about to install a new seacock (wooden hull) - I'll be using a bronze thru hull fitting a bronze elbow fitted to a Polyprop ball valve then bronze connection and heater hose combined with copper pipe all the way to the water pump">raw water pump - looking for suggestions on the matter of installing new thru hull fitting and plastic tap

2. After I fit the new seacock I will have 3 redundant thru hull fittings - I want to keep the fittings in situ but want to plug the holes forever - the raw water seacock is corroded as hell - suggestions please - MVR

[sailing_jack]

First, an elbow and then ball valve is not a seacock. A seacock is a flanged valve that is attached to the hull and the thru hull threads into it.
The thread on a thru hull is straight, and on an elbow or ball valve it is tapered. They will only connect for 1 or 2 threads. Also the elbow and ball valve create a lever that will break the thru hull if something heavy lands on it.

As for the unused ones, if you will never use them, then remove them and patch the holes.

[sailing_jack]

Woops, rereading your post, you have a wooden hull.
So for the unused holes, if there is a good thru hull, put a good seacock on.it and wire it closed.

[HopCar]

This is a seacock. Note the mounting flange.

You can order seacocks here: Seacocks by Groco and Apollo Conbraco

Is there a reason you need the elbow? Are you limited in how high the seacock can be?

If you need to keep it low profile the Groco flanged adapter system would be much stronger than an elbow screwed onto a thruhull. You could put a bronze elbow between the adapter and the ball valve.


Order adapter here: Groco Flanged Adapter IBVF

If you use this system, use a bronze or Marlon ball valve. Marlon is plastic with reinforcing fibers in it. It's much less likely to break than non reinforced plastic.

[SkiprJohn]

As sailing jack says. I would like to say that it is not good to mix bronze with plastic and would be better to do all bronze and have a proper seacock attached to your throughhull.
There are a couple of threads here about seacock installation. Do a google search and you'll find a lot of information.
On patching the old holes that would be something I'd wait to do until I hauled out but temporarily I'd plug the throughhulls with tapered plugs by driving them in as far as possible then drill through the portion that is still visible and wire it to the hull somehow. There might be a better way of doing it that some wood boatowners can respond with.

kind regards,

[djmarchand]

This site has several photo essays on installing seacocks: Compass Marine "How To" Articles Photo Gallery by Compass Marine at pbase.com

David

[DeepFrz]

If your current seacock is corroded I would bet that your through hull is also corroded. I would recommend you remove them and patch the hull using the proper methods for a wood hull.

[Carraiadimare]

Hello everybody,
guess there's someone there!
Does anybody knows wich kind of seacocks are used by Beneteau from 2009? I own an Oceanis May 2009 and i'm quite scared....

Thanks for any response

[SkiprJohn]

Aloha Carraiadimare,
You might post your question separately in a different thread to get a more specific response to your question. I don't know the answer but I'm certain there are others here who do.
kind regards,

[Carraiadimare]

Originally Posted by SkiprJohn

Aloha Carraiadimare,
You might post your question separately in a different thread to get a more specific response to your question. I don't know the answer but I'm certain there are others here who do.
kind regards,

Thanks for your advice, I need to practice both web and sea surfing!!!

[MV-Romnya]

Thank you all for your valued advice - I am heeding all you have said and am implementing all BRONZE ( I think you just saved my boat from sinking by not mixing materials) - the only problem I have got is that there is insufficient room to install a seacock and an elbow - so I am intending to have the elbow on the thru hull and to the ball valve (Bronze of course) any suggestions ?

And to Carraiadimare, welcome aboard. I was new to this forum just 3 months ago and received more help than I had ever imagined. As SkiprJohn said post a new thread and I can assure you that you will receive heaps of advice - subscribe to your thread and you will receive emails when you get a response.

[sailing_jack]

Please re read update # 4. The thru hull is straight thread! this should only be threaded to a seacock, or a IBVF adapter. Elbows and ball valves are tapered threads.
DO NOT MIX STRAIGHT THREADS WITH TAPERED THREADS !!!!
The adapter is straight on the inside for the thru hull, and tapered on the outside for an elbow or ball valve. Also, you need the flange bolted to the hull.

[MV-Romnya]

Thanks Deepfrz, I did not think of the rest of the fittings - will do as you advised - I'll search for fixing the hole from the removed thru hull fitting or I'll post a new thread on this matter - I'm sure someone out there has had the same problem - thanks again - MVR

[MV-Romnya]

Thanks Sailing_Jack, I'll look at the IBVF adaptor. Can the elbow then be fitted to the adaptor because I'll have no room for the ball valve on top of it. Now having decided on the IBVF adaptor does it require a backing plate to the hull - its a wooden hull of course and all the other thru hull fittings do not have a backing plate on the inside of the hull - thanks again - MVR

[sailing_jack]

First question, yes. The top of the adapter is NPT so any standard elbow will work.

Second question, we may need someone with experience with wooden hulls here.

On a fiberglass hull, there is a pad under the flange that is bonded to the hull to make it thicker. The bolt holes on the outside are countersinked to be flush. the bolts heads are exterior, and the nuts interior.