Help me identify this portlight, and replace the gasket

[HopCar]

Originally Posted by SpaceRnglr

Thanks KP. How did you connect the two ends of the gasket where they joined? That is where mine are currently leaking as the joint is simple silicon and not working...

I've used cyanoacrolate glue to make o-rings.

[sailu2]

If you can't find a new seal try a sealing agent that has fixed many small leaks for me.The name 'Captain tolly creaking crack cure' it costs about £6

[KP44]

Originally Posted by SpaceRnglr

Thanks KP. How did you connect the two ends of the gasket where they joined? That is where mine are currently leaking as the joint is simple silicon and not working...

We put the seam at the top side of the portlight and made sure the ends were tight against each other. We might have used some silicon but I don't think we needed any. The new gaskets went through several very rainy winters in the Seattle area and we have had no leaks. The smoke Lexan is stronger than the glass and allows us to easily see out but gives some privacy. A glass shop cut 16 lenses of thick Lexan to match the old for under 200$US. (So we have spares.) If you use a clear bedding at the edges, make sure it is Lexan compatible.

[Ribman]

Super glue worked quite well for me to seal the gasket ends to each other. I wouldn't overthink the gaskets too much. When I replaced my leaking gaskets I thought they were some kind of 'u' shaped material also. Turns out they were just compressed into that shape by forming to the closed portlights. After a few years the new look like the old, but because they are more pliable they still seal quite well.

[SpaceRnglr]

Time for an update. I ordered the replacement seals from hatchmasters.com who were quite helpful on the phone. They sold seal by the foot which I cut to length and did a trial fit. Once I was happy with the fit I used superglue to join the two ends, put down a very small bead of normal silicon in the grove, and installed the seal. The arrow seal was quite hard to force into the metal frame, especially in the bends (I have the RE pill shaped port light). I used a flat screw driver with a cloth on the end and it worked and didn't damage the foam.

Interestingly the old seal was not foam, it was rubber with a "D" profile. There was also no silicon in the frame groove.

I also replaced some of the broken handles. With the new seals the handles are VERY hard to close, so much so that I have to use a screw driver to barely latch them. Hopefully the seals compress and the latches get easier to close.

I haven't been on the boat since the fix in a rain storm, but I don't see water collecting in areas that used to get wet so I think it worked. Time will tell.

[ErnietheGrinch]

I have older Taiwanese built CT with ancient, leaky, bronze port holes.

No manufacturer, no references.

I bought a roll of ultra weather resistant foam cord from McMaster-Carr . Measured it , cut it to size and adhered it using some white silicone.

Best part is a roll of 100 ft will cost anywhere between 17 and 64 dollars depending on thickness.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/124/3680/=1c0ea7v

I changed out 4 portholes and have plenty left over.

Cheers

[JPA Cate]

Originally Posted by SpaceRnglr

Thanks KP. How did you connect the two ends of the gasket where they joined? That is where mine are currently leaking as the joint is simple silicon and not working...

We have the old standard Lewmar opening ports, and the differences are that on the outside, our frames have a gap on the side, not a join on the top as yours do, so although they look similar, and our handles and hinges look very similar to yours, they may, in fact be non-Lewmar look alikes.

When you re-install the gasket, you might try making the join be at the top; having it at the bottom is asking for a leak, imho.

If they are old, new O-rings, and also, remove the outer frame, and see if there are water tracks from where the split is, as you may want to use some good caulking there, too.

Something that really helps the old gaskets, is to clean them carefully, and grease them up with silicone grease.

Good luck with the project.

Ann

[gulfstar37]

Looks extreamly like my brothers catalina 36, lewmar windows that leaked badly. What we found as mentioned previously is the O ring between the glass and handles were brittle and bad. In fact on one, half was missing. When either green water or rain came the water would pool right where the handles were at the bottom leaking in. When replacing either the O rings or window gaskets use plumbers faucet grease. It will not damage the rubber like vaseline will.

[double u]

those exposed x-heads - the genuine old-standard PL from Lewmar had little plugs over them, afair....