Happiness is a Warm Spool Gun

[Panope]

Building environment.

I cannot stress how important it as been for me to have this project at home. There is just no way I could have given it same the attention if I had to drive somewhere to do work. I cant imagine not being able to peek outside just to go and think about how to do something. I even hop out of bed to go take a look at an area that was being "engineered" in my head.

I have spent countless hours designing stuff from this window while doing the dishes.

I am very lucky to have a spouse that is cool with having a big old boat in our driveway for years and years.

Steve

[Panope]

Thanks Andrew for the more in depth discussion on dissimilar metals isolation. Your technical knowledge on the subject far exceeds mine. I am mostly drawing from my limited experience with this one boat.

Steve

[Panope]

Lazarette/mechanical area.

Here are a few pics that attempt to depict the general layout of Panope's lazarette and mechanical areas.

Pic #1. Looking aft from galley through pilot house foot well. 50 gallon (each) fuel tanks port and starboard. Removable foot well walls (not yet built) will, in conjunction with the pilot house steps, provide a partition/sound barrier.

Emergency tiller inserts into socket under steering quadrant. Fuel tanks interfere with emergency tiller travel. About 80% of steering travel is available.

Pic #2. Bulkheads and horizontal surfaces are 3/4" marine plywood with several coats of oil based floor and porch paint (from hardware store). Painting accomplished prior to final installation while horizontal to achieve a smooth surface with a brush.

Pic #3. Prior to installing anything in this area, I flooded the foam insulation with several gallons of white paint to beautify, brighten, seal crumbling foam and to provide a (small) degree of fire proofing. I should have used a special fire retardant paint. If I were building a foamed boat from scratch, I would coat every inch of the foam with white fire retardant paint - no matter the cost.

Pic #4. Large horizontal spaces in this area are presently not used for any installation. Perhaps one day my preferences will change and these areas will be used to mount various pumps, electrical equipment and other contraptions to make life aboard more luxurious.

Pic #5. Locker for lines and other gear.

Steve

[Panope]

Mainsheet, traveler.

During last years sea trails, I played around with a traveler for the forward portion of the mainsheet. I am finalizing the design and installation now. I want to use 1/4 amsteel (pictured) . The Sheave that the traveler runs on is designed for 1/4" material but I believe that 7 mm Dynex Dux will also work. Colligo Marine's website shows 7 mm Dux fails at 15,000 pounds - unbelievable.

This line will see some pretty high loading - especially during jibes. Keep in mind that my mainsheet is "split" fore and aft with 4 parts just ahead of the pilot house and another 3 parts at the very aft end of the boom (and boat). The boom is a bit small in diameter for its length and is a flexible. I believe that the aft portion is going to see higher shock loads than the forward portion in spite of it having one fewer mechanical advantage "parts".

My hope is to be able to quickly remove (without tools) the traveler line in order to stow and reduce sunlight degradation.

Pic #1. Forward portion of mainsheet with mocked up traveler of 1/4" amsteel.

Pic #2,3. Close up of traveler anchor point. I will create end "eyes" with those Chinese finger puzzle type splices - whipped for security. Eyes will be just large enough to fit over (with determination) the cross toggle to prevent unintended releases during flogging (boom is really long and heavy so it does not actually flog).

Pic #4. Aft portion of mainsheet. I wanted to keep the aft bench/seat clutter free and simple so a fixed sheet anchor was chosen. Initially, I tried a plain block and used the bollard pins below to belay. This proved difficult to use at times when under load. The problem occurred when on a tack that caused the sheet to cross over the belay making it difficult to remove. This cam cleat block is the most sophisticated part of Panope's rig. It has proven to be very handy under sail.

I am thinking that a proper rigging job should utilize Colligo's line terminators with a shackle. My hope (as always) is to use simple homemade stuff. Also, (as mentioned above) I would prefer tool free removal of the traveler.

I have very little experience with synthetic rigging so any input would be greatly appreciated.

Steve

[gasngo]

You mentioned in a early post the you are no expert. Well I beg to differ. That is some fantastic work. You have the heart, sole, dedication and a pocket book it would appear to get it done. Fixing up my little Catalina feels like a big task but not compared to yours. I would be honored to step aboard one day. Well done Well done.

[Panope]

Originally Posted by gasngo

You mentioned in a early post the you are no expert. Well I beg to differ. That is some fantastic work. You have the heart, sole, dedication and a pocket book it would appear to get it done. Fixing up my little Catalina feels like a big task but not compared to yours. I would be honored to step aboard one day. Well done Well done.

Thanks gasngo,

Getting the boat in the water last year for some test sailing was a huge boost/relief. It did cement the fact that yes, I will finish this thing.

Regarding the pocket book. My initial proposal to my father back in 2000 was "I will do the work, you write the checks" as I was very rich in enthusiasm but poor in cash. I was very productive for the first couple of years and my father did contribute about $10,000 to the project.

between 2004 and 2010 a series of life changes that included founding a small business kept me mostly away from the project. Also, Dad at some point bowed out and turned the whole thing over to me to finish.

So the business (small aircraft charter) was good, and in 2009 I shut down to about 20% to stay at home with my infant daughter. As she grew out of diapers I found myself for the first time with both time and money. The last 3 years have seen about 40,000 of my $$ pour into the project. Not much left to purchase (whew) - mostly paint and interior cushions.

Lets call it a $50K and 5,000 hour project.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...4-a-94298.html

Steve

[Panope]

To add to my above post:

This has been a fairly large amount of money (to me) to spend on a superfluous project/hobby. However, I have not for one minute regretted any of it. I would do it all over again with this very special (to me) boat in a heart beat.

If I somehow lost Panope, I would not try and replace her. I would get another boat but it would be smaller and be easy to trailer at highway speed behind a normal, larger personal vehicle.

Steve

[Pelagic]

Originally Posted by Panope

Building environment.

I cannot stress how important it as been for me to have this project at home. There is just no way I could have given it same the attention if I had to drive somewhere to do work. I cant imagine not being able to peek outside just to go and think about how to do something. I even hop out of bed to go take a look at an area that was being "engineered" in my head.

I have spent countless hours designing stuff from this window while doing the dishes.

I am very lucky to have a spouse that is cool with having a big old boat in our driveway for years and years.

Steve

Beautiful Work and very creative solutions Steve…..definitely a labor of love.

For those who don’t know, Port Townsend is the perfect location on the West Coast to be inspired by seafaring traditions.

I used to be a regular visitor from Vancouver, staying at the James House and sampling the culinary delights of the Farm House.

Your theme song is also my favorite Beatles song!

I wish you continued Happiness!

Happiness is a Warm Gun - John Lennon [Beatles] - YouTube

[Panope]

Foot-well walls.

Pic #1. Walls and integral storage compartments constructed of 1/2 inch marine plywood. Foot rests are 3/4 inch "Starboard". Small Lexan window beneath Port foot rest allows visibility to solar controller.

Pic #2. Rear of storage compartment is 1/4 inch Lexan. Some sort of foam-rubber gasket will be added around switches to suppress engine noises.

Pic #3. Through the port access door the following items can be reached. Port fuel tank shut-off valve. Raw water shut-off valve. Raw water strainer basket. Solar controller control switch.

Pic #4. Starboard side storage compartment may house safety gear or mundane items like rubber boots.

Pic #5 Starboard side door allows access to the starboard fuel tank shut-off valve and manual bilge pump through hull valve. Doors are held closed by bungee cord. Foam-rubber weather stripping is an attempt at preventing engine sounds from entering house.

Pic #6. The best seat in the house for the helmsman.

All foot-well components are readily removed without tools. Wall panels have a foam-rubber gasket along bottom (backside) that keeps inward pressure on the floor panels between.

Steve

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Pelagic

Beautiful Work and very creative solutions Steve…..definitely a labor of love.

For those who don’t know, Port Townsend is the perfect location on the West Coast to be inspired by seafaring traditions.

I used to be a regular visitor from Vancouver, staying at the James House and sampling the culinary delights of the Farm House.

Your theme song is also my favorite Beatles song!

I wish you continued Happiness!

Thanks Pelagic.

Port Townsend is a boat builders paradise. Endless local talent. Many Marine suppliers/businesses. Small rural town that one can still do noisy, stinky projects in the back yard without causing problems. Fairly close to Seattle and its massive maritime heavy industry (galvanizers etc).

And as you said - much traditional stuff going on. A good portion of the wooden Alaska fishing fleet gets its maintenance done in Port Townsend so there is always some interesting working boats to gawk at.

Pictures are from the 2011 wooden boat festival (photo plane is 1929 Travel Air 4000). Always heavily attended and brings out the best of the type.

Steve

[Snowpetrel]

A very clever and simple way to keep doors closed, I might have to steal that one. Very nice work as always.

[Panope]

Originally Posted by Snowpetrel

A very clever and simple way to keep doors closed, I might have to steal that one. Very nice work as always.

Thanks Snowpetrel,

The trick is to anchor the bungee off to the side that the hinge is on. Lots of "pull" when the door is closed but as the door opens, the pull is reduced to near zero.

Steve

[Andrew Troup]

Super simple, super tidy, super classy

Everything you show us goes straight into my "inspiring boat ideas" folder.
It's a lot bigger than it was before this thread began.

Thanks, Steve.

[Panope]

Another door detail - Door catches.

Made of Starboard.

Steve

[tropicalescape]

Originally Posted by Panope

Another door detail - Door catches.

Made of Starboard.

Steve

I bought a roll of bungee cord from a fellow CF member a few months back,been wondering what to do with the left over! Great ideas you have there..