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Old 16-11-2015, 12:04   #151
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Re: Hand Tap or Drill Motor?

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I liked flying the BAC 1 elevens with ex fighter jocks at the controls, after the first vertical approach and flair to a short strip.
Pilots are too gentle these days. They are pretty well computer guided to landing. I managed a 737 landing in a simulator without crashing, and then I was shown the auto landing switch for hands off.
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Old 16-11-2015, 13:31   #152
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Re: Hand Tap or Drill Motor?

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Pilots are too gentle these days. They are pretty well computer guided to landing. I managed a 737 landing in a simulator without crashing, and then I was shown the auto landing switch for hands off.
That was days of yore with the BAC. Nice aircraft as I recall? Had to be circa 1967. I think it even had coach seats. Two facing forward and two aft with a table between. Even flew with a little 25 cal. semiautomatic in my back pocket since riots where the norm..
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Old 16-11-2015, 15:08   #153
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Re: Hand Tap or Drill Motor?

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My own very limited experience has been to use the proper drill bit and tap the holes by hand.

My buddy, the expert, uses taps in his drill motor. Bingo he's finished but it seems risky when you don't want to bugger up.

What's the pro way? I need (8) 1/4" holes for fine thread machine screws.

Thanks
I work in a machine shop. The answer to this depends a lot on your tools, the material to be taped, skill level and tolerance for a mess.

I would never try this in stainless.
1/4 inch is a small tap. Both easy to turn by hand and small enough to be fragile. What will you do if you break a tap in the hole?

If you are tapping in aluminum and your tap is new & sharp and you have low speed available maybe OK. I use VEGA taps for automated tapping. The Three-fluted standard Home Depot taps are weaker and harder to keep the chips clear.
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Old 16-11-2015, 16:10   #154
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Re: Hand Tap or Drill Motor?

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I work in a machine shop. The answer to this depends a lot on your tools, the material to be taped, skill level and tolerance for a mess.

I would never try this in stainless.
1/4 inch is a small tap. Both easy to turn by hand and small enough to be fragile. What will you do if you break a tap in the hole?

If you are tapping in aluminum and your tap is new & sharp and you have low speed available maybe OK. I use VEGA taps for automated tapping. The Three-fluted standard Home Depot taps are weaker and harder to keep the chips clear.
I have never had any success drilling SS. I guess low RPM and the right lube is the ticket?
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Old 16-11-2015, 19:29   #155
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Re: Hand Tap or Drill Motor?

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I have never had any success drilling SS. I guess low RPM and the right lube is the ticket?

Don't let the bit get hot.


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Old 17-11-2015, 03:01   #156
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Re: Hand Tap or Drill Motor?

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Don't let the bit get hot.


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Even more importantly, don't let the work piece get hot!

The following might not be best practice as I'm self taught but after drilling perhaps hundreds of holes in 316 by hand in sizes ranging from 1/8 to 3/4 " allow me to suggest the following.
HEAT is your enemy. It will work harden the drilling surface in a flash and it can almost make it impossible to continue in that hole.
Drill rpm should be as slow as you can make it.
Feed pressure as high as you can make it.
IMO, you can't too slow or too hard.
Lube is your friend and I'm sure machinists use all sorts of special brews but I find ordinary dishwashing detergent to be excellent - fairy or joy etc. Use heaps and it is easy to wash your hands afterwards
If for any reason, the drill stops biting, STOP and find out why. Even if you continue for say another 10 seconds, the hole will overheat,
Usual reason is the drill bit is blunt.
A sharp bit is essential. I just use normal HSS bits and sharpen regularly - usually on 400 or 600 grit linisng(sp?) belt. Others perfer cobalt or other hard bits.

IMO, a slow speed fast feed works because the bit is continually cutting into cooler metal remembering that 316 is a poor conductor of heat so the heat transfer from the cutting surface is moving into the material below, slower than the bit is feeding into the hole.

As I say, there may be better ways but these methods have worked for me.
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Old 17-11-2015, 06:57   #157
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Re: Hand Tap or Drill Motor?

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Originally Posted by Cadence View Post
I have never had any success drilling SS. I guess low RPM and the right lube is the ticket?
Wottie is spot on below !

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Originally Posted by Wotname View Post
Even more importantly, don't let the work piece get hot!

The following might not be best practice as I'm self taught but after drilling perhaps hundreds of holes in 316 by hand in sizes ranging from 1/8 to 3/4 " allow me to suggest the following.
HEAT is your enemy. It will work harden the drilling surface in a flash and it can almost make it impossible to continue in that hole.
Drill rpm should be as slow as you can make it.
Feed pressure as high as you can make it.
IMO, you can't too slow or too hard.
Lube is your friend and I'm sure machinists use all sorts of special brews but I find ordinary dishwashing detergent to be excellent - fairy or joy etc. Use heaps and it is easy to wash your hands afterwards
If for any reason, the drill stops biting, STOP and find out why. Even if you continue for say another 10 seconds, the hole will overheat,
Usual reason is the drill bit is blunt.
A sharp bit is essential. I just use normal HSS bits and sharpen regularly - usually on 400 or 600 grit linisng(sp?) belt. Others perfer cobalt or other hard bits.

IMO, a slow speed fast feed works because the bit is continually cutting into cooler metal remembering that 316 is a poor conductor of heat so the heat transfer from the cutting surface is moving into the material below, slower than the bit is feeding into the hole.

As I say, there may be better ways but these methods have worked for me.
SPECTACULAR !

PS in all my years never used dishwash soap as cutting lube for bits, but totally makes sense when it works so well in so many other "cutting/polishing/abrasive" operations....
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Old 17-11-2015, 10:47   #158
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Re: Hand Tap or Drill Motor?

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I have never had any success drilling SS. I guess low RPM and the right lube is the ticket?
Stainless work hardens (as Wotname mentions) So if the drill bit is not cutting properly, it is skidding around and making the metal you are trying to drill even harder. That is one reason for using a lot of pressure, or feed. Not so much that you break the drill bit of course, and you need to ease up as you hear the drill bit finishing the hole. If you have access to a drill press it's easier to get the required pressure without so much risk of breaking the bit. I use those more expensive ( Cobalt?) drill bits labeled "for drilling stainless steel" .

I buy them individually for the size of holes I need. The bits in the usual high speed drill kits don't last long in SS.

I usually drill a smaller pilot hole first but that is mainly for accuracy as the pilot hole can also create work hardening. For an 8 mm bolt I'll drill 5 mm first, then 8.5 mm, which provides clearance for an 8 mm bolt.
Cutting fluid in an aerosol can is convenient. You can get a grease like cutting compound which is handy if you want to remove the drillings from the work.

The bigger the drill bit the slower you need to drill because the tip speed of a larger drill is faster as it has more circumference.
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