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Old 29-06-2012, 15:45   #16
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What's the best way to repair/replace the removed gel. Oat?
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Old 29-06-2012, 16:25   #17
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Re: Grinding fibreglass to dry

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Originally Posted by psneeld View Post
Because it CAN be a problem...maybe not...but worth grinding down to see if the scratch is already there.

Some boats because of construction and location never have problems while others have severe...you don't really know till you investigate more than a glance at the gel coat.
Why is this? My boat was built back in 1980 to specs made in 1967! She does not seem a rocket science (all lamination done by hand) and I bet materials back then were nothing fancy (today they ARE fancy = advanced - they have seen decades of improvement).

What are the (technology? materials?) differences that cause some designs to blister once scratched while allowing other designs to wear exposed grp meat for weeks without any apparent consequences?

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Old 29-06-2012, 16:42   #18
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Re: Grinding fibreglass to dry

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What's the best way to repair/replace the removed gel. Oat?
You can buy gelcoat and patch the damage. It is easy but color matching is not very easy.

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Old 29-06-2012, 16:54   #19
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Re: Grinding fibreglass to dry

If it's underwater, an epoxy repair is better.
gelcoat is "easier" , in that it may not need painting, but, as noted, can be tinted and buffed out.
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Old 29-06-2012, 19:24   #20
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Re: Grinding fibreglass to dry

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Originally Posted by ddfishon View Post
What's the best way to repair/replace the removed gel. Oat?
are we talking a bit of gel from scratches? if so...then wome more gel would be fine.

if we are talking the entire boat...I recovered with 6oz cloth and epoxy...then 4 thick coats of interprotect 2000.
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Old 29-06-2012, 19:29   #21
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Re: Grinding fibreglass to dry

Quote:
Originally Posted by barnakiel View Post
Why is this? My boat was built back in 1980 to specs made in 1967! She does not seem a rocket science (all lamination done by hand) and I bet materials back then were nothing fancy (today they ARE fancy = advanced - they have seen decades of improvement).

What are the (technology? materials?) differences that cause some designs to blister once scratched while allowing other designs to wear exposed grp meat for weeks without any apparent consequences?

b.

you are right it wasn't rocket science but there were MANY differences between even models from the same manufacturer in the same year....different resins, methods, application...etc..etc


there's ton's of info on hydrolysis/blisters internet scout it out...a lot of misinfo too so if you do have bottom problems you need to seek out the few who really have studied the subject (yard or individual).


if you don't have problems...you may not..but until you remove the gel coat or do some random coring...you never know how bad your boat may be hydrolysing.
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