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Old 28-09-2008, 06:56   #31
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You are right - it is a dumb question, and if enacted will probably lead to a darwin award. Thats why the navy used air tools (and they are a lot lighter to handle).
If you want to do it afloat, do it be hand or hire the larger compressor (but you then need a big genny to run it!)
The question was NOT a dumb one (please take note, and be a little "nicer" Talbot); even if the premise or proposition, upon which it was based, was a little less than brilliant.
No need to shoot the kids.
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Old 28-09-2008, 14:00   #32
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Dumb Questions

Thanks for the support, GordMay

I was hoping (perhaps unrealistically) that somebody in this august group had figured out a way of safely using electrical power tools (e.g. grinder/polishers) on boats still in the water. Standing or sitting in an inflatable rubber dinghy (like an Avon) holding a 120 V tool with insulated grips, connected to a power supply through a heavily insulated and grounded wire that is kept out of the water is not exactly the same thing as having, say, a space heater fall into a full bathtub with someone in it.

But on the surface it WAS a dumb question; I knew the "correct" or stock answer before asking it and, for the record, don't resent Talbot's reply. This group is a great resource for boaters and from time to time I hope to be asking more dumb questions that I'd be afraid to ask anyone face-to-face.

Hope that's OK.
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Old 28-09-2008, 15:43   #33
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As an addendum to the initial post in this thread, I would like to offer the observation that sanding fairing compound (epoxy & microballons in this case) is also not fun.
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Old 28-09-2008, 18:05   #34
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I'd like to say that grinding fiberglass with an 80 grit flap disk is a whole lot less itchy than attempting to sand with a random orbital equipped with a chunk of what looks like road pavement.

The actual grinding goes 10x as fast, and the strands are a lot shorter/more dusty than the fuzzballs kicked off of 36 grit.

You will however, look like you just molested a powdered doughnut.
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Old 28-09-2008, 18:27   #35
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the Festool Rotex 150 vacuum extraction sander is without a doubt the best investment a person who sands fiberglasss can ever make. It has taken away the dread of sanding for me. The speed and percision that it removes material is remarkable. It literally cuts sanding time in half.
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Old 29-09-2008, 01:30   #36
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the Festool Rotex 150 vacuum extraction sander is without a doubt the best investment a person who sands fiberglasss can ever make. It has taken away the dread of sanding for me. The speed and percision that it removes material is remarkable. It literally cuts sanding time in half.
I'm assuming one also needs the actual vaccum unit to go with it, correct?
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Old 29-09-2008, 08:38   #37
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Yes, the vacuum is the integral part of the whole system. Whether you are using the grinders, sanders, saws, routers, whatever, they hook into the vacuum, along with the vacuum hose. When you pull the trigger switch, the vacuum turns on simultaneously.
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Old 29-09-2008, 15:10   #38
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Any experience with tool repair? I live in Canada and they seem to only operate within the us.
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Old 29-09-2008, 16:47   #39
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I did have a problem with a grinder that began to make some bearing noise (though, truthfully, we pushed it), took it to the dealer and we had a replacement in a couple days, no questions asked.
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Old 29-09-2008, 18:24   #40
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I like the end result

I have used all sorts of tools to remove, shape and sand my boat. Purchased a gel plane for the early stages of repair. Used a 8" diamond concrete grinding surfacing disk for my angle grinder, that really removed chunks. Purchased a large 220vac compressor and used all manner of sanding disks with my air grinder. What hurt the most was long-boarding the hull.
Code:
As an addendum to the initial post in this thread, I would like to offer the observation that sanding fairing compound (epoxy & microballons in this case) is also not fun.
You can purchase a dust muffler that will hook up to a shop vac to contain the dust. Seems to me that it will be hard to get good leverage to sand a hull from a dingy, also hard to get perspective on your material removal and the hulls fairness. I am assuming that you are going to try roll and tipping LP paint that is the reason for sanding in the first place. If you are and I was in your spot I would hand sand as any powerd type tool couyld make flat spots.
Code:
 
 Dumb QuestionsThanks for the support, GordMay
 
I was hoping (perhaps unrealistically) that somebody in this august group had figured out a way of safely using electrical power tools (e.g. grinder/polishers) on boats still in the water. Standing or sitting in an inflatable rubber dinghy (like an Avon)I
have spent the last 3 weeks hand sanding the deck up 400 grit a work of devotion. I shot LP today sure does look nice. So all of the not fun is forgotten and it was all great. Will post some pictures soon.

Jack
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Old 01-10-2008, 23:01   #41
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Talking about anti-fouling does anyone know if there is a paint stripper type product which can be used on fibre glass? I have to take off about four coats from my new boat this winter and don't fancy having to scrape it off without some chemical help. The comments above only reinforce my view that this job isn't going to be a picnic

Jasco at Home depot.
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Old 01-10-2008, 23:05   #42
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Pay someone else to do it...or

Porter cable 6 inch orbital varible speed disc sander, held like a grinder. Built in pad. I tried everything. This was the final tool. Coat yourself with talcum powder. Cover yourself head to toe. when finished sharp cold shower. AND you still will suffer!
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Old 02-10-2008, 08:58   #43
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I think the product Uncle Braddah is referring to is called Jasco Premium Paint & Epoxy Remover. I use it a lot and get it at my local marine supply store. It is particularly good for stripping LPU paint and the sand-filled nonskid I prefer on decks. If you are watchful, you can allow it to bubble up only the LPU and not harm the epoxy resin beneath. If you want to remove the whole deal, it's more efficient to do it in stages, taking off layers. Ideally, the day isn't too hot or the active agent, ethylene, blows off too quickly and you have to keep saturating the area with more goop. It has saved me countless hours, as long as I keep it where I want it, otherwise it does considerable collateral damage.
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Old 02-10-2008, 09:26   #44
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Not all tools are created equal........Sometimes you gotta bite the bullet......

Air file for hull fairing.

Hutchins Manufacturing Air Sanders
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Old 02-10-2008, 11:05   #45
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Air tools are also used in chipping and scraping and sanding for another bigger reason. They are designed so that some of the clean air LEAKS from every joint and connection, which blows out any debris. Regular electric tools get packed full of abrasive debris and chew themselves apart. The air tools last "forever" because they are self-cleaning.
The fact that they don't make sparks in explosive atmospheres or electrocute you in puddles is almost a happy co-incidence.<G>
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