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View Poll Results: What type of epoxy to use for suction filling a void in the Skeg.
CPES Penetrating epoxy (i.e Smith's) 0 0%
Standard low-viscosity epoxy 2 100.00%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 2. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 23-09-2009, 13:31   #16
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Originally Posted by Fishman_Tx View Post
Plywood form not unheard of in a skeg from what i hear. I was actually HOPING to find wood, that would have been an easy fix. Water - Probably about a tablespoon or 2, slow drain...
How thick is the layer of black goo? If there was ply in it at some point it'd be 1/4 or 1/2" thick solid goo.
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Old 23-09-2009, 13:41   #17
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not goo, there is no core in the skeg. very thin like a layer of light cloth. Almost looks like a bunch of wetted cloth was stuffed into a mold with resin (the core?) and then glass and cloth "layed up" over the top. Look at the pic above with the hole showing. Now imagine after drilling the hole you take a (running)dremel tool with a small drill bit and fish around in the hole. Some areas in the side walls of the hole were very soft and routed out with NO pressure on the dremel(crumbly?) at all. I'll see if can get a closeup next weekend.....
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Old 23-09-2009, 14:06   #18
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It's very typical for the yard workers to put scraps of resined cloth in the skeg as they perform their work elsewhere.... it ends up a haphazard way of filling the skeg. I would not go so far as removing the skeg! Just dry it out as best as possible and call er good.
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Old 23-09-2009, 14:12   #19
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Originally Posted by Fishman_Tx View Post
not goo, there is no core in the skeg. very thin like a layer of light cloth. Almost looks like a bunch of wetted cloth was stuffed into a mold with resin (the core?) and then glass and cloth "layed up" over the top. Look at the pic above with the hole showing. Now imagine after drilling the hole you take a (running)dremel tool with a small drill bit and fish around in the hole. Some areas in the side walls of the hole were very soft and routed out with NO pressure on the dremel(crumbly?) at all. I'll see if can get a closeup next weekend.....


This one? You should try one in the bottom edge, there'll still be water below the hole you drilled.
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Old 23-09-2009, 14:12   #20
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Most likely is a case of improper layup resulting in incomplete saturation of the mat or roving. My question would be is there enough solid fiberglass around the area to make it structurally complete? Or is delamination likely where loss of integrity imminent? Most of your questions are answered directly by Pascoe at marinesurvey.com or yachtsurvey.com. I'm facing the same dilemna. My answer is going to be to plane off the skinout past the black area and doing a new layup of stitchmat using epoxy resin and fairing the whole hull out. Let me guess, your boat has a wet bilge without a barrier, or just bare fiberglass allowing a place for ingress of water into the layup. If so no amount of barrier coating
Will stop the hull from becoming saturated from the inside. A sump under propshaft,shower and fridge sump and barrier coating in bilge is first line of defense. Keep bilge squeaky clean and dry. Then barrier coat and external treatments stand a chance. Again. Marinesurvey.com gelplane.com
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Old 23-09-2009, 14:23   #21
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Sorry to hear you are having these issues.

The only real solution is to media blast the bottom and let it dry, it could take a year. You need to put a meter on it and don't refinish anything until it's dry. When dry, refair with epoxy and then epoxy coat. This is a big job and it will not be cheap.

A final note: simply having a solid glass hull is not gaurantee you will not have these problems.

Good luck,

Joli
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Old 23-09-2009, 15:05   #22
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Let me guess, your boat has a wet bilge without a barrier, or just bare fiberglass allowing a place for ingress of water into the layup. If so no amount of barrier coating
Actually, is roving coated with a tinted barrier(epoxy?) of some kind. There are 2 small depressions in the roving(lay-up?) between the stuffing box and the propshaft as reported by my partner (I have too much belly to fit into the lazarette/engine compartment) that are not draining into the bilge and I suspect may be bleeding in from there.

FSBO: Could be, thats what it seems. Or possibly sub-standard batch? I wouldn't have expected that out of a Bristol, but then again, who knows? They had a lot of $$ problems.
Joli:I am under no illusions on that issue. As for blasting, I'll planer peel it probably, cuz ALL the gel has GOT to GO. Along with the 5-6 layers of paint, etc....

Maybe I can find the ingress, enlarge it, epoxy a fitting in, attach a low air pressure line to it from an air compressor, and let it ride til all else is done. Then see what we'll see.....
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Old 23-09-2009, 15:30   #23
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Compressed air is a good idea as it may indicate where the water came from as well....
a little dish soap in the bilge above the skeg and try running some air into your present hole and watch what happens ( low pressure please).

May show your ingress point in the bilge.
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Old 23-09-2009, 16:59   #24
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Great idea!
BUT....
If it's delammed, do I get to use HIGH pressure?
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Old 23-09-2009, 17:05   #25
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use very low pressure! How thick is that skeg? It's possible someone threw some saturated cloth in there they forgot to catalize! Like I said, the skeg is a trash can when you are working in the open hull....Can you hole saw a 2" or so hole from the top and look in there? de humidify it and fill it up with a piece of rolled roving and micro ballons!
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Old 23-09-2009, 19:00   #26
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If it's delammed, do I get to use HIGH pressure?
That was a joke....

The skeg is solid
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Old 24-09-2009, 08:01   #27
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Great idea!
BUT....
If it's delammed, do I get to use HIGH pressure?
Woo Wee! Well, that'd solve a LOT of problems right there!
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Old 24-09-2009, 08:04   #28
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I don't think you have anything to worry about. That skeg is not going to fall off! I think you should pursue the ideas mentioned, such as water and dish soap in the bilge and some air into the the skeg holes, to see if it is coming from the bilge. If so, should be able to clean up/grind sand offending bilge area, and then epoxy and cloth a few layers, to keep out the water.

Then follow other suggestions to dry out skeg, and inject / pour epoxy resin into holes drilled high on the skeg, unti lit comes out the bottom. Then cover bottom holes and keep filling.

You may have done this already, but to me the most important thing to check, is the integrity / strength of the rudder /skeg pintle and gudgeon. Mine had been previously repaired (30 year olf boat) and was breakinbg again. I had a new, larger one fabricated. I wish I had mounted it externally, instaed of glassing it over, like the original. However, it is solid enough that I will not be worried for years and years. It woudl have been nice to leave it outside, to inspect easily and juts through bolt everything (through properly potted holes, to keep the water out).
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Old 24-09-2009, 08:25   #29
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The skeg seems pretty solid. When you grab and shake it side-side, the only flex i can see is at the hull taper. I was worried about delam internally and fracturing. If i lose the skeg I'm screwed so best to fix it before it f**ks up. The old "ounce of prevention" thing.....
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Old 24-09-2009, 08:32   #30
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Hi Fish.
I agree mostly with everything said beforee.... no need to replace the skeg.
Just make sure you get all the water out of it and then, onec nice and dry, if possible, pump epoxy in through the BOTTOM hole, until it runs clear from the TOP hole....
Good luck, it should outlast most of us...heh heh
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