glue new floor to old

[dkenny64]

here's what I'm planning on doing.

our sailboat has/had the original teak/holly flooring..
2 areas remain..both area are sound. the other floors that were not sound have been
replaced with solid mahogany boards..wife doesn't like the strips of the teak/holly.
so replacing them was OUT! fine.. I had the mahogany..
I also have enough for a thick(3/8") veener over the rest of the flooring..
this is 2 areas
1st - the nav station
2nd - the main salon.

questions?
do I need to sand the 1st and 2nd to bare wood..then epoxy the mahogany down
or is roughing up the existing finish to also bare wood good enough.. I don't a delamination problem going forward.. I thought about polyester resin instead of epoxy..but decided on epoxy...

thoughts?

-dkenny

[sailor_ed]

If it were me I would:

1) sand the teak to bare wood

2) coat teak surface and the underside of the mahogany with non-blushing penetrating epoxy

3)rough surfaces a bit with 80 grit

4)glue mahogany down with epoxy and weight with sand bags or similar

Good luck!

[dkenny64]

I like the idea of the penetrating epoxy..

thanks

[hellosailor]

Sand, or scrape, to bare wood. Use epoxy. There are other wood-on-wood glues that can do the job, but epoxy is unquestionably waterproof. Some construction mastics and urethanes might also be.

[Zach]

You may be opening yourself up for a headache if you need to sand and flatten the flooring after gluing down your veneer. Just an FYI, as 3/8ths veneer will conform to whatever low spots are there under weight alone.

Don't forget to acetone wipe the wood, and if you have a helper with a foam weenie roller, having them roll neat epoxy on the back of the strip before they go into place can make for a better bond.

If everything is dead flat, fair, and no low spots you can veneer in place with weight. Put weight on a floor that isn't flat and the squeeze out comes from the lowest low spot onto the top of the wood. That makes a fair bit of sanding if it is under a weight.

If the floor you are using as underlayment is decent, don't forget that you can use screws to tack down the new veneer, even if the veneer isn't thick enough to hold a plug. You can remove the screw, counter sink into the old floor, and epoxy in the plug.

If you are alright with the occasional black dot, you can fill #1 trim screw holes with thickened epoxy and graphite pigment. Looks about like a pin knot. You may have to do that if you end up under a cabinet or somewhere that you can't readily get anything but a stubby screw driver.

[Terra Nova]

Strip/sand to bare and glue using a reputable system such as WEST epoxy, for which there is absolutely no need for a separate penetrating epoxy.

[dkenny64]

thanks for the relies...
the first of 2 floors is in..

instead of screws( would show too much..too big a hole.
I used small stainless brad nails to tack it down until the epoxy sets up..
with the current temps about 15hrs..using west system.105/206..
105/205 would have been fine, but that not what I have on hand..so it take longer.
next is sanding(and trying to keep the inside clean).. does any one else see a disaster in the making..anyway it'll be hard surfaces that need cleaning..not cushions..

they poly on the floor..just using helmsman spar urethane..its inside.. I used good stuff outside..

-dkenny