Getting Dirty - Haulout

[DeepFrz]

Good luck, I have never heard of it. We learn something almost every day.

[Ex-Calif]

I googled around and it is priced in pounds all over the net so it may be the "European" version of Bilge-Kote - Singapore being an ex-colony wot-wot and pip-pip...

[Cheechako]

Great post! Real world excperineces are good learning tools for all of us... Assuming the rudder is cored, all you need to do is cut a big "window " out of one side, scrape out to mush, let 'er dry, Then laminate the window back in....and fill it with a lightweight epoxy slurry from a hole bored in the top.

[DeepFrz]

Singapore being an ex-colony wot-wot and pip-pip...

Say no more - say no more.

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Great post! Real world excperineces are good learning tools for all of us... Assuming the rudder is cored, all you need to do is cut a big "window " out of one side, scrape out to mush, let 'er dry, Then laminate the window back in....and fill it with a lightweight epoxy slurry from a hole bored in the top.

Thanks. I always enjoy posts with pictures.

This week I did a lot more sourcing (shopping $$$) - Went to the Bosch store and picked up a 1/3 sheet orbital sander, pretty good jigsaw, a new Dremel tool with a flex shaft secondary tool for fine a crevice work (everyone should have a good dremel tool). Also got a new 50 meter power cord on a spool.

Picked up a few other bits and bobs and some bilge paint.

Last night after work we stripped the deck hardware and rub rail. Didn't get pictures as it was getting dark. Will snap a few today.

Just about ready to start sanding. Gonna borrow a second sander so 2 guys can be working on the deck prep. Should go pretty quick.

OK - Here's a few photos of the "workshop."

Photo 1 - 5hp 4-stroke in the living room - good to be a bachelor! Note the "guy" appropriate use of bath towel
Photo 2 - The laundry alcove / battery and fuel shop - note this area open to "outside" (well vented)
Photo 3 - The laundry room / Second Volvo & Saildrive warehouse
Photo 4 - The hallway alcove / Engine workshop
Photo 5 - The office / sail loft

It is amazing how much "crap" comes off even the smallest boats. The car is full of deck hardware. I think the guest room is gonna have to become the chandlery...

I'm afraid to show you the guest bathtub / cleaning tank - LOL...

[Jaxxiam]

I'm look'n forward to some progress photos of the boat.
Thanks you keeps us up to date.

[Ex-Calif]

Here are some shots of the foredeck after removing all the deck hardware, clutches and jammers.

You can see by general condition it is way past time to get a protective coating on here.

Photo 1 - Coach roof and view from cockpit
Photo 2 - Coach roof. A collection of Clutches and Jammers. I bought a new twin clutch at a swap meet. so will end up rearranging this and end up with 6 clutches instead of 4.
Photo 3 - Anchor locker. Clean up and Bilge paint. Plan to enlarge the drain hole as it seems to accumulate a bit of water in here.
Photo 4 - Looking back from foredeck. Thin paint all round.

[Ex-Calif]

Here's the rudder job.

Found the rudder for the maxi next to us on a sawhorse - It is a similar weight and is ready to go back on. Either it is also full of water or this is just a heavy rudder design.

After a week standing a small puddle of water had formed. There was a small rust spot where the rudder sat. Flipping over you can see a small hole where the water was coming out.

Not I had not drilled this hole so I suspect this is where the water is getting in. Maybe not sealed properly after last draining.

When we flipped it over water ran freely out of the head end so we knocked the rudder bracket off. The bolts were not sealed or seated. The good news is the water is clear (so far). We left it upside down to drain.

The rudder pin has a minor rust staining but no water drains here. The upper busing is shot and will be replaced.

Photo 1 - Small puddle on ground with rust stain
Photo 2 - Bottom of rudder with small "rusty" hole at left. This will get resealed
Photo 3 - Rudder bracket removed. Pulpit and stanchions in background
Photo 4 - Water draining from boltholes
Photo 5 - Lower rudder pin
Photo 6 - Shot bushing

[Ex-Calif]

You can see in these shots the lower shrouds are attaching on the forward chain plate.

I m going to do some googling but the boat next to mine the lowers are connected aft and the uppers are connected forward. I think that is correct and mine are currently incorrect.

My sense is the uppers should be in alignment with the masthead and the lowers should be tailing aft.

This has been this way since we got the boat and I have never really thought about it.

Any opinions?

[DeepFrz]

Maxi 77 Ida doing 7 knots - YouTube

This shows the lower going to the forward as well.

[Ex-Calif]

Hmmm... A conundrum for sure...

Also as a side note their 7 knots is SOG. I gotta believe they has a good current assist.

Here is RL at 6.4 on a reach. Note the wake difference between us - especially the stern wake. I'd put him at about 5 knots boat speed.

Pretty boat however, with the "standard" maxi outboard mod...

2010 May - Relax Lah Nongsa Return - YouTube

The best we have done is to touch 7.0 on a broad reach with a bit of surf action.

Here is a picture - didn't get video as we were too busy "hanging on and pooping pants" - LOL... I reefed a bit after this as we started to really get some gyrating with the following quarter and dipped the boom in once.

[mdvick]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Bilge-Coat - sorry don't know generic.

Interlux Bilgekote Paint

Darn I had it spelled right the first time.

+1 I have used this stuff and it is fantastic! Great job!

[Ex-Calif]

Nothing exciting to report from this weekend. Got the scaffolding up and started sanding.

Port locker 90% done. "Detail" hand sanding around non-removed fittings about done. Finished removing cabin front hardware (dodger mounts, steps, instruments), cockpit locker hatches removed.

Tiger George has been put on stainless duty. Wire brush seems too aggressive, heave been tipped to try Muthers Stainless polish - good luck finding here but I will try to find an equivalent.

George very pleased with himself in finishing the rudder bracket in about 2 hours. I point to all the deck hardware, pulpit, stanchions, swim steps and he looked a bit daunted - LOL. Good man!

The sanding is definitely going to go slow around the fiddly bits - lockers, bilge etc. Plan to do bilges and lockers before getting "serious" with the deck painting. Long road ahead...

On the upside it is good to have friends. My buddy tossed me his boat keys Friday and said, "If ya need a break take my boat. " Did an hour booze cruise to end the weekend and remind ourselves what we are sweating for - LOL...

[Capn Morgan]

Hi Dan

If you haven't got anything else yet, I've used an International white primer (2 pack). If I remember right it is called Interprotect. It sticks really well and forms a really good base for a finishing paint if you want to go to those lengths. Johny Lim can surely find anything you want if it is in Singapore.

Good to see a can of Tiger in the last picture, makes me homesick...

[atoll]

kansai malaysia paints
we used their epoxy undercoat,and 2 pack polyeurathane to coat salamandra in langkawi,on aluminium decks and superstructure,10 years later it is still looking good,1/4 the price of international paint.
might be worth a trip accross the border,comes in 5l quantities.
cheap and very good product,buy the thinners as well if you buy paint

par by kansai


you can use "brasso" to polish stainless if nothing else available

http://www.kansaimalaysia.com/produc...cat=Commercial Paint&range=Heavy Duty Coatings

http://www.kansaimalaysia.com/produc...cat=Commercial Paint&range=Heavy Duty Coatings