Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 01-01-2008, 16:16   #1
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Prince Rupert
Boat: samson c-mist 32
Posts: 98
Images: 5
get the lead out

Getting ready to tackle the engine room, so it ready to welcome the new engine. The original builders poured lead in the engine bed slot. I'm guessing this was for vibration dampening for the horizontal 1 cilinder yanmar. Now I have to get it out. I've tryed attaching a couple pics of the situation. I can get a pry bar under and it seems loose on the under side, but it is molded in well on both sides. My only thought is to saw loose each side. Any other ideas would be welcome.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0596.JPG
Views:	87
Size:	180.3 KB
ID:	2372   Click image for larger version

Name:	IMG_0597.JPG
Views:	87
Size:	191.4 KB
ID:	2373  

__________________

__________________
emeraldsea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2008, 17:48   #2
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
Quote:
Now I have to get it out.
Why? If it was poured in hot you won't be using brute force to get it out. Sawing the sides still leaves the bottom attached.
__________________

__________________
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2008, 20:17   #3
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Prince Rupert
Boat: samson c-mist 32
Posts: 98
Images: 5
The new D2-40, or any other 4 cylinder engine won't fit without that space for the oil pan. The hull is cement, I think I can get enough leverage to pry the lead from the bottom if I can cut the sides lose.
__________________
emeraldsea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2008, 21:31   #4
Registered User
 
ribbony's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Australia
Boat: Seabird Kayak :)
Posts: 520
Images: 22
I would go with your idea to cut the lead on either side a bit in from the edge, then try levering without too much force. If it does not shift then keep cutting into smaller strips or blocks and see if you can remove it bit by bit. What were you going to use to cut the lead with ? If an electric tool is used it should not be spinning too fast as excessive heat from speed and friction may make the lead too soft and harder to cut. Keeping it cool with running water might help to keep it hard for cutting. Something that cuts aluminum may work on lead.
__________________
ribbony is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-01-2008, 22:40   #5
Senior Cruiser
 
senormechanico's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Aug 2003
Boat: Dragonfly 1000 trimaran
Posts: 5,823
How about drilling a few holes into the top, screwing some big lag screws into it with some eyes attached. Then using a purchase, say 8:1 try lifting it using a brace across the companionway or maybe a homemade sawhorse to distribute the load across the deck. Use snatchblocks to run the line to a primary winch and you have ultimate control. Take your time and see how it is working and adapt as you go.

Steve B.
__________________
senormechanico is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 04:28   #6
֍֎֍֎֍֎֍֎֍֎

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 13,022
I'd be careful about the lifting--it is easy to use too much "mechanical advantage" and if the lead comes up it may take some glass with it. The old alternatives of saws and chisels may be necessary. If you do, remember that inhaling lead dust is not a good thing, you want to wear a respirator or good face mask while doing that, and then clean down the compartment.
If you can pull or pry it up (from the rear?) that certainly would be good.
__________________
hellosailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 05:19   #7
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
Quote:
I'd be careful about the lifting--it is easy to use too much "mechanical advantage" and if the lead comes up it may take some glass with it.
Hot lead would be inside every imperfection in the glass. It's not going to slide away from the glass. It probably has embeded itself pretty well. This isn't going to lift out easy or clean.
__________________
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 05:51   #8
֍֎֍֎֍֎֍֎֍֎

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 13,022
Paul, I was thinking hot lead would also burn away the plastic resin and key itself in very intimately to the glass fibers themselves.

Still, one never knows.
__________________
hellosailor is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 05:59   #9
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
My thought as well. Even if it didn't burn the variations in shape connected on three sides means it's wedged in good - just like they wanted when they did it. Refitting an engine not designed for the hole makes for difficult work. The less agressive approach may take longer but might leave less damage to repair.
__________________
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 06:11   #10
Registered User
 
georgelewisray's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Cape Fear, NC, USA
Boat: Tom Colvin, Clipper Pinky, Spar length 56'
Posts: 37
Images: 1
Electric chain saw is one of the easiest tools to use to cut lead. It clears the chips well which is a big problem when cutting lead. Kerosene is a good lube when hand cutting lead. Handsaw must be a 'RIP' tooth and not a 'crosscut' tooth when cutting lead, agian to clear the soft chips and avoid jamming. Skill saw with carbide blade will do fairly well but blades tend to stick/jam. Some beeswax or tallow on the skill saw blade will help prevent sticking/jamming and not be to messy.

Cutting several very deep grooves near edges of block will allow some shrinkage and help 'unjam' the block from the hull. Drilling holes and screwing in lifting eyes is easy and helpful, although prying is probably best to get the block moving initially.

One wild and very dangerous possibility is to use hydraulic pressure...... drill centered hole all the way through block and fill with oil and place a close slip fit rod in the hole on top of the oil and hit it with a maul. Hydraulic high pressure shock may either break the block loose or it may blow a hole in the hull.
__________________
There is so much good in the worst of us, and so much bad in the best of us, it doesn't behoove any of us to speak evil of the rest of us
― Edgar Cayce
georgelewisray is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 06:53   #11
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 497
Images: 1
the hull is cement

Guys, the original poster in his 2nd post in this thread said the hull is cement, seems like you are focusing on glass. Does that change anything in your advice?
__________________
jdoe71 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 07:29   #12
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
Quote:
Guys, the original poster in his 2nd post in this thread said the hull is cement, seems like you are focusing on glass. Does that change anything in your advice?
No because the lead isn't going to act much different because it was poured in place. A concrete surface would have almost the same properties. It's also more brittle and a pry bar may yield more on the concrete than on the lead. Anything that attempts to pry or lift it when it's attached on the bottom and 2 sides is prone to potential problems. Cutting it at least to remove the attachment from 3 simultaneous sides is going to let it come out cleaner.

If it was coming out easy it would already be loose from the vibration of the engine that used to be there.
__________________
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 08:57   #13
Registered User
 
Sunspot Baby's Avatar

Join Date: May 2003
Location: New Bern, NC
Boat: Prout Manta 38' Catamaran - Sunspot Baby
Posts: 1,521
Images: 14
How about a torch, melting and dipping out?

Also, you don't have to get every bit free from the hull. You can just cut a hole large enough to accommodate the new engine.

George
__________________
She took my address and my name
Put my credit to shame
Sunspot Baby, sure had a real good time
Bob Seger
Sunspot Baby is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 10:05   #14
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Prince Rupert
Boat: samson c-mist 32
Posts: 98
Images: 5
Thanks for all the advice and thoughts. The cement has a layer of paint, also I am thinking that years of oily grime may have worked under the slab of lead. I'll try cutting the sides and prying from the bottom first. I like the electric chain saw idea! Will post results later today.
__________________
emeraldsea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2008, 16:24   #15
Moderator Emeritus
 
Pblais's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Hayes, VA
Boat: Gozzard 36
Posts: 8,700
Images: 15
Send a message via Skype™ to Pblais
We want after pictures too! Good luck.
__________________

__________________
Paul Blais
s/v Bright Eyes Gozzard 36
37 15.7 N 76 28.9 W
Pblais is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Gam split lead SSB antenna Sailaway08 Marine Electronics 7 02-03-2013 10:33
GTO-15 Lead Wire wind rose ll Marine Electronics 15 22-03-2011 09:12
Emergency crews puzzled by yacht find Yacht Lead sneuman Health, Safety & Related Gear 76 08-10-2008 10:02
Lead Battery-angle delmarrey Electrical: Batteries, Generators & Solar 15 13-03-2007 06:10
Lead-acid battery equalization phorvati Electrical: Batteries, Generators & Solar 22 01-01-2007 14:25



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 14:45.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.