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04-11-2010, 19:03
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4
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Gel Coat vs Paint
Hello Cruisers! We are in the midst of boat repair. We are re-fiberglassing the entire top deck of a 55 cutter. She used to have Teak but as we saw the damage underneath to the glass we decided to go with a good paint or gel coat and apply some rubberized non-slip decking. With a family of 5 on board we want to keep the re build time and the cost down as well as the maintenance a little more manageable than teak (as lovely as that looks) What we'd like to know is what's the word on Gel coat as opposed to a high quality marine paint. and Which has best adherence to raw fiberglass. Will both require a primer? What's the longevity of the products and and ease of application? any input will be muchly appreciated!! Thanks
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04-11-2010, 19:27
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#3
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Brisbane Australia
Posts: 757
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You might be better with a good rubberised paint with a primer because of any movement, and put on a few extra coats
Gel coat is designed to go inside a mold you would need a waxed gel coat on at least the top coat.
You will need to throughly clean and sand the deck for the polyester to stick properly.
Epoxy coating will stick better than polyester but is more expensive and will yellow with age.
I personally think a good clean, with a pressure washer, a light sanding and apply a quality primer and then a good rubberised paint will give you a better finish.
You will find paint will give a smoother finish than polyester/epoxy
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04-11-2010, 19:49
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#4
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cat herder, extreme blacksheep
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: furycame alley , tropics, mexico for now
Boat: 1976 FORMOSA yankee clipper 41
Posts: 18,967
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what they did on mine when they removed decks of teak was to glass with woven cloth then epoxy, and then painted that. paint will stick for a coupla years then need repainting. --you WILL fall and get hurt--if the is no nonskid on the step edges and such. i know.. need a wood or some other GOOD nonskid to prevent the falls from wetness on these places. i am going to edge mine in wood-- mine is a formosa 41.
gel coat will need a lot of waxed paper to make and will cost you more than 50,000 dollars to have done for that size area. (figure, 5 yrs ago was 35000 for a 32 footer--lol-- this is 55 ft long--not square ft..is a lot of area.
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04-11-2010, 20:01
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Boat: Vagabond 42
Posts: 274
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I used body filler for smoothing surfaces. Primed over the filler. Then painted with Nason Urethane. To make the decks non-skid I rolled a coat of Urethane where I wanted the non-skid surface the while it was wet sprinkled a layer of a product called Soft Sand over it. Then applied a couple more coats of Urethane. It made for very slip resistant deck. Soft sand is a recycled rubber product.
There is an article in the current issue of "Good Old Boat" about roller coating an awesome finish as well. They recommend using Awlgrip products.
__________________
P-)
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04-11-2010, 20:24
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: A real life Zombie from FL
Boat: Gulfstar 53 - Osiris
Posts: 5,416
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Basically paint is your only option, I re-gelcoated my decks and it lasted for almost two years before the new gelcoat started wearing off revealing the original deck. Gelcoat does not harden sufficiently outside of a mold to be used for extensive areas. For small patches it is fine.
- - Any good quality two part epoxy will hold up for 2x, 3x, 4x longer than aftermarket gelcoating.
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05-11-2010, 06:35
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#7
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Nearly an old salt
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Lefkas Marina ,Greece
Boat: Bavaria 36
Posts: 22,801
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Theres not much choice epoxy and paint it. In my opinion dont do for a two pack like awlgrip unless professionally applied. Use a single pack product that you can apply and just accept that it will require retouching up
dave
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05-11-2010, 13:28
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#8
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Boat: Vagabond 42
Posts: 274
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osirissail
Basically paint is your only option, I re-gelcoated my decks and it lasted for almost two years before the new gelcoat started wearing off revealing the original deck. Gelcoat does not harden sufficiently outside of a mold to be used for extensive areas. For small patches it is fine.
- - Any good quality two part epoxy will hold up for 2x, 3x, 4x longer than aftermarket gelcoating.
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Glad I decided against gel coat.
__________________
P-)
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05-11-2010, 18:47
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: between the devil and the deep blue sea
Boat: a sailing boat
Posts: 20,437
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No reason to apply gelco when finishing. Go for a good paint system and that's it.
Why you see gelco elsewhere is because it went into the mold first, then it was topped with GRP. This is how lamination goes.
b.
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05-11-2010, 18:58
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#10
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Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Eastern Tennessee
Boat: Research vessel for a university, retired now.
Posts: 10,406
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An epoxy barrier coat like Interlux 2000 makes for a nice undercoat for your finish paint. You can also use an epoxy filler to fill in the imperfections before painting. I like the texture of the Awlgrip fine non-skid. Its not so course where it feels like it's going to tear up your skin if you fall on it. It's got just the right amount of grip in my opinion.
__________________
David
Life begins where land ends.
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09-11-2010, 10:16
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#11
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 4
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Thanks everyone for your replies and information!! Off to buy some paint we go!!
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09-11-2010, 10:40
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Vancouver, BC
Boat: S.V. Wildheart - 1976 Douglas 32'
Posts: 137
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We redid our 24' last fall. What a job! I can only imagine the hours you'll put into this one. We rolled Awlgrip for the topsides, and still had a fabulous finish. A bit harder to get the hang of, but not too bad considering it was my first time, and I'm not a professional.
We rolled Pettit Easypoxy on the deck and overall, we were quite disappointed. In the really high use areas, (such as dockside cockpit edge, where everyone steps once they were on the boat) started to see signs of wear in a little less than a year. We had meticulously sanded, and primed as well.
I assume that you were going to use a product like KiwiGrip for the rubberized portions? What about the smooth portions of the deck, such as the cabin sides? I'd still go with the Awlgrip, despite the PITA factor. Results are worth it. My dad did his 42' deck in Awlgrip about 5 years ago; still looking fantastic.
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09-11-2010, 12:02
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Nyack, NY
Boat: Westsail 32
Posts: 1,694
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Awlgrip is a tough highly regarded product, the problem is that for an amatuer applicator it has to be applied perfectly to get a good result, (This usually doesn't happen) orange peel and runs cannot be sanded out and the area reapplied and there is no future repairs of chipped or damaged areas without a noticeable halo effect around the repair. Imron on the other hand is a very tough flexable two part paint that can be wet sanded and polished, minor imperfectons can be blended into the origional paint work without having to redo the whole paint job.
For the areas of non skid there are products that are light years ahead traditional paints. I have experience with a product called Durabak Cote-L Distribution Company and have applied it on customers as well as my own boat. As a urethane based product with ground up tire as the non skid medium it is one of the most flexable and durable prodcts for non skid I have ever worked with. Attached a couple of pics of a customers Egg Harbor deck repair job finished in Durabak coating.
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