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Old 19-02-2009, 22:03   #1
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Galley / Nav Station Renovation

Hey all,

Some of you may remember the thread I made a while back showing the rewiring of our boat. If not, find it
here. You can also click the link in my signature to view all the pictures.

Anyway, we've also installed an airhead composting toilet, and done some other work; made new sail covers, did some rigging work. Now though, we've started the renovation of our galley and navigation areas. We're trying to decide between Formica and solid surface (acrylic, Corian) style counter tops.

We've decided to remove the top drawer of the nav table, putting a wooden base in instead. We'll make the top of the nav table hinge up, and the drawer's old face hinge down, giving a 10" deep area to store charts flat that can be accessed from the front so you don't have to move stuff off the table, or from the top. Further, we're going to build cabinets for above the icebox and hanging locker.

For photos, visit:
Asia Marie Galley/Nav Area Renovation

I'll post here whenever I add more photos.

Cheers!
Aaron
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Old 20-02-2009, 03:14   #2
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You might be interested in a previous CF discussion at:

New Counter Tops
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Old 21-02-2009, 01:53   #3
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I like the Corian type materials...they are heavy but the possibilities of building in sinks and other...as well as the seamless advantages make them pretty sweet.

One thing that is critical to remember is that that it will expand and contract a fair bit with changes in temperature.

I designed my trim to allow for 3mm movement on all sides.
The picture below shows the sink bit of my galley, this is all a single seamless piece including the back-splash.

I'll continue the use of it on the other side of the range where the refer and freezer are…the down side is it adds a lot to the weight of the top-loading doors.
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Old 21-02-2009, 04:35   #4
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Absolutely beautiful James!
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Old 21-02-2009, 09:10   #5
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Thanks Gord, that means a lot coming from you.
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Old 21-02-2009, 09:53   #6
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James,

That looks wonderful. Did you make the sink, or was it a pre-made unit that you undermounted and seamed together? We have a much more confined area with which to work, so that is a limiting factor, but I want a deep, dual basin sink. Also, did you use Corian bran material, or a generic acrylic? I'm also considering Swanstone, which is a different formula of acrylic (or so they say) that is resistant to acetone and thinners.

We're actually considering pulling the entire galley and port side furniture out and moving the galley foward against the main bulkhead, building a small dinette/single/double birth where the galley is now. I feel the galley is awkward in our W32 as they tried to squeeze it into the narrower stearn, rather than letting it sprawl a bit at the beam. We're going to have the boat hauled and set beside our house for a couple months in April, so it'll be easy to work.

Here is what we'd LOVE:


Thoughts, things to consider if we do decide to remove the port furniture and start fresh?
Cheers,
Aaron N.
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Old 21-02-2009, 10:53   #7
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Blahman
Thanks
I gave the shop the drawing/dimensions of what I wanted for the sink along with the rest of the tops details, they don’t have a clue about boat stuff and keep nothing but the material in stock.

It seemed to me there would be an advantage to having the partition between the sinks a little lower than the counter top as well...its a small detail but may make washing up some larger stuff a bit less messy and with more control.

If you look closely to the left of the sink near the backsplash you can see a small round recess, this is about 3 1/2 inch in dia by about 6 inches deep. Its a recess to hold a nice little SS liquid soap dispenser I found...its bottom has a 3/8 inch drain that ties into the sinks drain for easy cleaning.

These are the types of things you can do with some thought that sure makes lif easier.

This is not Corian...I don’t remember the brand name but we used the same material a couple years ago on a flat and its been wonderful.

The galley you propose in the picture is lovely.
You know how you like to use yours, and the constraints in your layout...for me it was important not to be open to the center of the saloon.

The column that you see in my pics is about midway of the range, I walk between it and the round bit (fridg) to get into the galley.

The horizontal thing going from the column to the end of the sink cabinet is a SS pipe.
When finished it will have a 12 inch wide x most of the length (around 3 ft) counter top that is used a bit like a sandwich bar when at port or on the hook.
When underway it rotates down and stows vertically directly under the pipe.

It’s a bit difficult to describe how the hinge works although it’s very simple.
When the counter is up its up it’s almost centered over the pipe.

If you’re staying with the design in the picture an easy way to be secure in the U shaped bit is a short line or strap that can be hooked across the opening.
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Old 22-02-2009, 10:15   #8
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James,

I like the idea of a sink that has a slightly lower median. However, I am adamant in wanting a stainless sink, and with my limited space, I'll probably wind up with a flush median, or one that is 1/2" below the surface.

How did you design the lip of your icebox? I'm working off the idea of a three-seal system, with the first lip having ~3/4" for a refrigerator magnetic seal of some sort, and the second and third having thin foam-style weatherstripping. I haven't even started the lids yet. I'm making it all in plywood, which will be coated with thinned polyester resin, then faired with body filler, then another coat of resin, then paint. Basing it all off of this lid.

Also, I went over to a buddy's shop yesterday; he builds solid surface counters professionally. Turns out that he has 4 1/2 sheets of Affinity's "Catalina" solid surface that he just received from a warranty claim that the owners now don't want. So, he's going to give me the material and help me make the counters in his shop, all for around the price of a six pack and lunch. I'll probably leave $50 somewhere to cover the cost of the materials we use too...he'd never take it though. He just wants me to finish the damn boat so he can learn to sail!

Not the exact color I had in mind, but close enough for the price: Affinity "Catalina" - D512

Thanks for your input!
Aaron N.
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Old 22-02-2009, 11:19   #9
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Aaron
My preference would have been a SS sink as well but I couldn’t find one deep enough.
I would have mounted it under the top…sounds like that’s your plan as well.

The freezer and fridge lids are a big job.
I looked at the same ones you linked from Glacier Bay but the size and shapes didn’t work for me. They are really nice and even at those prices I’d go for them if you can.

I made my openings from FG with a single taper on all sides, I made the plugs from wood.…I think it was about 15 deg off vertical.
Then I used the openings as a form for the underneath sides of the lids also from FG.
If you notice on one of the pictures you can see the FG tails still sticking up before they were trimmed.

Today I rough trimmed them.

The next step is to secure two seals around the face of the taper on the door bits.
Then I’ll stick them back in there holes…because of the thickness of the seals they will not go down as far and I’ll do the final trim on the top.
Then I’ll insulate them and MAY put a ½” plywood cover on before attaching the counter top material to the top.

If you like I’ll take some pictures tomorrow of the present status, and post them about this time.
I think the seal you are proposing will be much better than what I’ll end up with.
One of my challenges has been the semicircular refer.
That made a magnetic seal a lot more difficult…so I abandoned the idea.

As you noted that counter color may not be optimum, but hey…the price is right and it may brighten things up a bit.
I’ve gone out of my way to lighten up my interior….the teak is nice in Alaska, but I’m in the Med now.

If your committed to building the doors out of plywood, consider using epoxy instead of poly.
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Old 22-02-2009, 22:46   #10
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Hi all,

Just added some photos of the female side of the icebox closure, sealed and glued with epoxy. It's also screwed in place.

There are a few photos of the nav station with the chart basin set in place. Also, I decided to cut the top of the hanging locker out and make a 4" deep recession. I just hated the big flat, nearly useless surface, as it used to be. Now we'll be able to set STUFF on it without the STUFF flying all over.



Happy healing,
Aaron
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Old 22-02-2009, 23:45   #11
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I can't find the pictures...where did you post them?
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Old 23-02-2009, 08:00   #12
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James and all,

There is a link in the bottom of my original post, or:

Counter/Nav Photos

On another note, it is surprising how long it can take to do basic things. I spent eight hours at the boat yesterday and only managed to get the female side of the lid to that stage, plus that bit around the nav table. Never ceases to amaze me how slow I am...

~A.
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Old 23-02-2009, 08:27   #13
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A couple of things to consider with Corian (or similar products).

Corian does NOT like 90 degree inside corners. Cutouts should be rounded corners.

Corian is relatively easy to work with for a DIYer. We are going to replace all of our counters within the next year. If you are handy with a router, it can be done.

I agree with the ss sink - the only way to go. We'll just use our old one.

Corian and competitive products can be purchased here in the US: SolidSurface.com - Everything Solid Surface
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Old 23-02-2009, 10:07   #14
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Looks like a pretty good days work to me!

Here's a couple pics of my fridge/freezer progress...keep in mind nothing is fitted yet...but it’s the first time I've had all the pieces together at the same time.

There is a joint in the top between the round bit (fridge) and the square (freezer).
I made the fridge as a separate piece so it can be removed fairly easily if I ever have to get my port diesel tank out…..again!
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Old 23-02-2009, 18:26   #15
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James,

That looks great!

How did you form your lids? I'm trying to figure out a way for them to be an exact match for the female side. Should be easy; just use the female side as a mold. But I'm not sure how exactly to do this as I'm worried I wouldn't be able to get mat to lay in the sharp angles. Maybe bondoglass? It looks like you used mat, but how did you keep the bottom from sagging?

Did you just wax the area you were using for a mold so it would release? I've never made something intricate with fiberglass by using a mold.

Also, wouldn't making an exact mold leave little, if any, room for a gasket? Or would I need to add something in place for the gasket's space?

BTW - I'm going to quit using quick reply soon as you can't preview your post! Guess I should just reread before hitting "submit"...

Thanks,
Aaron N.
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