Furno Radar Install

[Longhair]

I am almost completed my Windless Install, Thanks all for the help, I am now planning my next install that of my Radar. I decided to mount the Radome on the front of my mast just obove the spreaders. My question is I want to run the cable in the mast however I don't have the time and I will be changing the rigging and step down the mast at that time, Is there a way to run the cable temporarily, say over the spreader and down the shroud and maybe through the chain plate? Any comments welcome. The radar system is Furno 1725 if that makes a difference.......

Thanks,

[GordMay]

Running the Radome cable externally, accross the spreader, down the shroud, and etc. is not a recommended practice - but it will work as a very short-term temporary solution.
Tie-Wrap (black UV resistant ties) the cable every 8 - 12" along this route.
If your re-rig will occur within the next several months, I’d recommend foregoing use of the Radar in that short interval, and only perform the permanent installation.
Have you determined your method of waterproof cable access through the coach roof deck (whatever) into the interior?

[Talbot]

rather than tieing the radar cable every 12", It looks better and more professional to use household electric cable duct secured to the outside of the mast by poprivets. preferably the oval plastic variety

Not only looks better, but means less holes in the mast, and I have seen several done like this as a permanent installation where the mast had a foam core.

[Sandero]

What is the problem with an in the mast installation? I have done it 2 times and it was not a long process.

You could.... drill a hole for the cable to enter at the radome location... and for a keel step drill the exit hole below decks, or for a deck step, at the base. The you need to drill through the deck and use a deck gland to pass the cable through. Use a messenger to pull the cable.

In both cases you probably have to do a splice inside the boat. I can't see how the above will take much more time than the temporary installation you described above.

Why not do it correctly from the get go?

Jef
sv Shiva
Contest 36s

[Will Burton]

Recently had a Furuno radar installed by ABYC specialist, running the cable from a transom-mounted radar arch which needed about 10' more than the standard cable length. He was quite specific about using the 15' Furuno extension, saying that a splice can introduce all sorts of problems. I recall that the extension is pricey but it insures good performance.

Will Burton
s/v Far Niente

[CaptainK]

Will Burton once whispered in the wind

He was quite specific about using the 15' Furuno extension, saying that a splice can introduce all sorts of problems.

Hey Will. Specifically, what kind of problems would you get?

Like some kind of interferance from the radar and the VHF? Or the VHF interferring with the radar?

[Will Burton]

Rather than try to recall (undoubtedly incorrectly) what the reason was, I'll call the chap and get a precise answer. May take until Monday.

[CaptainK]

Thanks Will.

I am curious as all hell. As to what that person who told you that, really meant?

[Alan Wheeler]

Mostly it's ensuring you have a good connection via using their "special" plug. It would take a long time for someone to join all those little wires, so buying the extension is simple. And then you know you ahve everything right.

[GordMay]

Radar Scanner Cable Splices:
The problems associated with scanner cable splices are legion, even tho’ subtle. Perhaps Rick might elaborate.
Unshielded terminal strips are likely to create problems with signal loss, timing delay, signal interference, and/or EMI radiation.
There are (a dozen or so) small wires, difficult to work with, and it’s difficult to keep untwisted and/or unshielded lengths to minimum, while spreading out to mate on terminals.
I’d (when practicable) prefer to use a a proper, weather-proofed, barrel-type locking, shielded plug set, comparable to the OEM set supplied with the cable - or a manufacturer’s cable extension set.

Junction Box Splice Cautions:
1. Screened conductors: The screen or drain shield must be spliced adjacent to it’s core conductor, and the unscreened length of core kept to a minimum (<1.25").
2. Connect all power, data, & co-ax cables in the same sequence (on terminal strip) as used for manufacturer’s connector or terminal. Send & receive conductors will normally be adjacent to each other.
3. Small conductors: Take extraordinary care not to damage very small conductors.
4. Ferrites: Most manufacturers will recommend a specific ferrite bead, to be installed on each end of the splice.
Protection: Protect all cables from moisture, UV & weather exposure, mechanical abrasion, heat, etc. Avoid tight bends.

I’m certain Furuno provides cable length, connection & splicing cautions & instructions in their manual.

FWIW,
Gord

[Rick]

I agree with Will Burton and Gord. You can either buy a 10 meter or longer cable from Furuno to get the correct lenght or, as a second-best solution, extend the one that you have. Unless you are extremely low on cash try to get the shortest Furuno cable that will just do you job and not use an extension.

Splicing is extremely difficult to do properly even for a good tech who knows his cables. One problem is that it takes specialty tools to do the necessary crimps for those tiny wires (and soldering is just not as good...yes, many of you will bridle at this yet guaranteed soldering quality is very qualitative while the crimping is not when using proper tools). Another problem is that the coax used by Furuno is not conducive to making barrel connection to as they are terminated at a plug-in strip where barrel or coaxial terminations are not required as the installation parameters are well defined at the Furuno printed circuit boards.

Your cable has two rectangular plugs and a few wires which, when carefully dressed and taped parallel to the cable, will pass through a 1/2 inch hole if, and only if, you can tease the cable from both sides of the hole. If not, then I recommend that you use two 5/8 inch diameter holes whose centers are spaced 5/8 inch apart (yeah, difficult to do in tight spaces) using a file or other tool to dress flat the metal between the tangent points of the hole circumferences. Use an appropriate step drill in aluminum or S/S. This will work well even with 0.065" S/S tubing like used to construct radar arches.

You must use a good "fish" to fish the cable carefully to the hole without damaging or causing undue bending to the connectors that you have already bent 90 degrees to their normal direction and close to the direction that the cable takes getting through the hole.

Be very patient in removing the tape used to protect the connectors during the fishing process...take an hour if you need to but do NOT damage those cables or connectors. It will be worth it.

[Rick]

Actually I think that I forgot that your cable has 3 connectors, correct?

[Longhair]

Well All, I decided to not instsall on the mast and I am going to put it onto my Arch/Solar panel rack/ GPS mount/Wind gen thingy on the back. I bought the 15m cable with the radar, now that I am putting it on the arch it is to long, is there a problem with cutting it down or should I coil the excess and cable tie it out of the way?

Good Day,

[Talbot]

If you are installing it on the solar panel rack, make sure it is below the solar panel, otherwise you will shade the panel and seriously reduce the power output.

[coot]

Originally Posted by Longhair

Well All, I decided to not instsall on the mast and I am going to put it onto my Arch/Solar panel rack/ GPS mount/Wind gen thingy on the back. I bought the 15m cable with the radar, now that I am putting it on the arch it is to long, is there a problem with cutting it down or should I coil the excess and cable tie it out of the way?

Don't cut the cable. What would be the benefit? And would any benefit justify the extra hours of work to put new connectors on the end?

The installation instructions explicitly tell you not to cut or splice that cable. If you do, Furuno will not want to hear from you if the radar doesn't work. This is not just because they want to sell cables. If you cut the cable, there is actually a pretty good chance that your spliced cable will not work as well as the original.

I have the 20 m cable on my Furuno 1732. I left 2 or 3 meters coiled up in one of the spaces I routed the cable through. The radar works fine.