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Old 15-02-2009, 14:10   #31
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Sounds like you've thought this through.
Where/how are you terminating your tank vents?
They terminate high on the side of the hull with a regular vent fitting.

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Old 15-02-2009, 23:03   #32
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If the return for your polishing is too low in the tank it could make trouble for your supply line by preheating the fuel (for some reason diesel engines don’t like that....also this return fuel may be aerated.
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Old 15-02-2009, 23:43   #33
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Thanks

If the return for your polishing is too low in the tank it could make trouble for your supply line by preheating the fuel (for some reason diesel engines donít like that....also this return fuel may be aerated.
Sorry James, I don't quite understand.
As was recently pointed out to me, I should be having my return coming into the bottom of my tank so that it will not aerate the fuel. It will actually come in the top, but I will make sure there is a tube to with in a few inches of the bottom. Is this not your understanding of how it should be done?
Let me know.

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Old 16-02-2009, 00:08   #34
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I guess it depends on how close the return is to the pick-up laterally.

Perhaps it could be near the bottom but in another end or area of the tank.

My experience is that most tanks have the supply and return located in the same area as they penetrate the tank.

I would not place my return deep into the fuel.

If you're concerned about aerating the fuel with the pressure /velocity of the return fuel entering the tank, you may angle the discharge after it enters the tank, so it’s not pushing/forcing the fuel deep into the tank.

It is advised to have the FILL hose enter into the tank some distance to avoid "foaming when filling.
This will aerate the fuel but generally does not present a problem with the engine since it's not running while the tank is being fueled….and we always wait a few minutes to let the debris, if any, settle.
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Old 16-02-2009, 00:17   #35
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Also, if you bring your supply into the bottom of the tank it will keep any debris agitated....this may be a good thing if you’re polishing, and maybe that’s the idea.
Since I don’t polish...I prefer to have the any debris away from my pick-up.
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Old 16-02-2009, 03:24   #36
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Sorry....I meant your return not supply
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Old 16-02-2009, 09:37   #37
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They look pretty nice. Nothing too complicated about a fuel filter (why are they so much money?) Better get some quick, I feel a lawsuit coming on.....!
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Old 16-02-2009, 15:43   #38
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Being cautions here, I don't want to do anything to muck things up. we have a Racor 500 filter. Are there instructions for changing the filter? (OK, how do you open it up?)
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Old 16-02-2009, 16:33   #39
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the basics: 1) Turn off your bilge pump (just in case you spill some there) 2)Shut the valve from your tank if you have one. 3) Have something to catch fuel in that will fit below your filter and plenty of rags/absorbants. 4) unscrew the T handle on the top of your filter and remove the top. (if you had no valve and your filter is lower than the top of your tank fuel may spill over the top if it will siphon!) Drain most (not all)the fuel from your filter with the little spigot on the bottom of the glass bowl. 5) Remove the filter element 6)If there is a little debris in the bowl, try to wash it out with more fuel. 7) if your bowl looks like an environmental waste site, maybe take the time to remove it and thoroughly clean it. 8) Once things are tidy, put the new element in and replace the oring in the cap (comes with the filter) 9) if you lose the oring in the bilge you can re use the old one unless it is pinched or smashed flat. 10) Fill the filter assembly almost to the top. 11) make sure the oring stays seated in the cap and put the cap back on, hand tighten. 12) open the valve from your tank. 13) Be sure to run your engine for 5-10 minutes before leaving your slip, if you got air in the system, it could die just as you get underway (Murphys Law: It WILL die just as you get underway) (Step 10 will help to avoid this) 14) Clean up the mess and turn your bilge pump back on (unless you got fuel in the bilge)
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Old 16-02-2009, 16:47   #40
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I would not place my return deep into the fuel.
James, I understand that some engine manufacturers require the return to go to near the bottom of the tank.

Your return should extend to near bottom of the tank to avoid aeration.
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Old 16-02-2009, 17:11   #41
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ABYC specifies the return be about a foot away from the suction if I remember right. The reality for Sailboats is that there is very slow flow rate on the ones I've seen. One of my engines seemed to have almost none... go figure... maybe it did at higher speeds...
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Old 16-02-2009, 18:08   #42
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Just a note - your pump is probably designed to push fuel through the filters and not pull it through the filters (check the owners manual).

If you put the pump before the fuel filters on their own little bypass from the main fuel line with a valve in the main fuel line you could also use the pump to prime your engine. Note - I have found that my perkins 4-154 will pull fuel through the pump when the fuel line valve is shut. I would not count on it but it will work in a pinch.

I don't know how this would impact your heater operation.

Typically a fuel polishing system reaches down in the bottom of the tank to get all of that crud that has settled in the tank out. If you use your set up I would stir the tank occasionally to mix up the crud (of course only while you are in port or at a dock). If not then the first time you encounter any seas all of the stuff on the bottom will be in the tank.
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Old 16-02-2009, 18:20   #43
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Also - what is the problem with aerating fuel? Is is a foaming problem, a small bubbles suspended in the fuel, or does it degrade the fuel.

The reason I ask is my return line (both tanks) only goes @4" into the tank. This keeps the foaming problem from happening when the tanks are full. Since my tanks are higher than the engine it keeps fuel from flowing back through the return line when the tanks are not full.
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Old 16-02-2009, 20:10   #44
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Both. The splashing fuel can cause air entrainment which promotes oxidation. The air entrainment can lead to rough engine running. The oxidation will hasten fuel degradation and more asphaltine formation.
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