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Old 09-01-2010, 17:42   #1
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Unhappy Frozen Seacock

I have an older Bristol which I think have the orginial seacocks. The 1 1/2 seacock handel is frozen solid. The thru hull and seacock are brass and the thread directly into the seacock. I've tried penatrators, torch abd brut force.. I'm out of ideas. I need help....

Doug
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Old 09-01-2010, 17:56   #2
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Hi Doug...Got any photo's? Brass...or Bronze?? Gate Valve? or a Bung with a handle? I had a 68 bristol, there were gate valves on it...but I don't know if that was standard for them in '68 ...

If it's a Gate Valve, I'd just replace it..

How long have you been letting the penetrators stew...my seacocks were frozen when I purchased this boat...it took a few applications, and I'd let it sit overnight...and repeat........

If you've torched it, I'm assuming that any frozen water evaporated...

I'm presuming...You took the hose off?..
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Old 09-01-2010, 18:03   #3
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Try rapping the sides of the valve in several places with a steel hammer (not too hard) while putting pressure on the handle, now that you've already used heat.

If it doesn't work loose it's time for a replacement.
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Old 09-01-2010, 18:05   #4
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If the boat is a Bristol I would tend to believe that the seacock is bronze. That being said if the valve is in the closed position, carfully disconnect the hose and liberally shoot the inside workings with a product like PB blaster, reconnect the hose and allow product to work overnight. When you return to the boat try to move the valve by hand. If you can't repeat process to valve finally works itself free. The key is not to force, lever or rush the process. heating a seacock with a tourch is a bad idea and could ruin it if it has rubber components inside. If the seacock is truly brass it has no place on a boat and could very well be seized, in which case it would need to be replaced with the proper, safe type of marine fitting, bronze. Often good quality seacocks just need a little TLC to bring them back to service.Seacocks require regular maintenance to work properly. I try to rember to grease twice a year and actuate the valves often. If you still have problems post a good picture and I can make some more suggestions.

Chris
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Old 09-01-2010, 18:44   #5
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Worth a try...I have used dry ice in similar situations...as above post...if valve is closed, disconnect hose...use penetrating oil of choice...give it time...apply dry ice directly to interior/center
of valve for about 5 minutes...protect your hands.
Don't like this job if boat is in the water...in any case, don't
get carried away with tapping side of valve while working the handle...good luck! Hugo
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Old 09-01-2010, 19:25   #6
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Slightly different method :-
Is to disconnect the hose NOT at the valve, but at where the hose is attached to a component, then if the open end of the hose is now higher than the waterline
(if not, add an extension piece) add penetrating oil (lots) for at least 24 hours - then start working on the handle while giving light taps with mallet all the time with the open end of the hose suspended above the water line (just in case!!!)
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Old 10-01-2010, 17:17   #7
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All good ideas except that it's frozen open and the penetrator oil the guys at work says free everything..But not mine. The boat is out of the water right next to my house, my wife loves it where she can see it everyday.. wink wink.. if I can get the handel free I would love to remove it, but I have to ask a dumb question, how?? is it easier to unscrew the seacock from the thru hull, and how do you keep the thru hole from spinning? The step wrenches say they are for installing not removing?
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Old 10-01-2010, 17:32   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DHolt View Post
All good ideas except that it's frozen open and the penetrator oil the guys at work says free everything..But not mine. The boat is out of the water right next to my house, my wife loves it where she can see it everyday.. wink wink.. if I can get the handel free I would love to remove it, but I have to ask a dumb question, how?? is it easier to unscrew the seacock from the thru hull, and how do you keep the thru hole from spinning? The step wrenches say they are for installing not removing?
On the hard? That makes it EZ. Just remove the seacock and take it apart. The body halves unscrew. The ball and seats are replaceable from the manufacture.

Stick one of these angled pieces of steel in the thruhull to hold it or unscrew, which ever it wants to do.
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Old 10-01-2010, 17:39   #9
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Now that we have a little info.
One simple option is to buy a Marelon gate valve and place it in the line between the stuck open sea cock and the ?component? whatever that is.
How about some pictures?
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Old 10-01-2010, 18:42   #10
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Out of the water!...definitely use the dry ice and bang a little harder
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Old 10-01-2010, 19:20   #11
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Doug,

Did you take the hose off that is attached to the valve?

What type of Valve is it..?

A.) File:GateValve.JPG - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

B.) Spartan Marine Hardware Catalog seacocks


What does it service? raw water intake? head? sink? other..

With the hose off, plug the thru hole with a soft wood plug from the outside..or pack a rag in there tightly, and get as much blaster in there as possible and let it stew..
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