Fram Oil Filter for Perkins

[RHoodJr]

Is there anyone out there using a Fram oil filter on their Perkins? We have the 4.236 and I found the Fram number that matches the Perkins part number. The only thing that bothers me is all the warnings I have seen about only using Perkins parts and they warn not to use others. I know they love to sell their parts but is there any other considerations to those statements.

Thanks

[capttman]

I use fram or whatever I can get they are all basically the same

[perchance]

I doubt Perkins makes their own oil filters, They just print their name on someone else s and charge you accordingly.

[zeehag]

i was buyng mine at walmart.........

[slacker]

Fram PH108
Fits most Perkins

I prefer Wix filters but Fram will do in a pinch.

[btrayfors]

Been using Fram PH2821A oil filters on my Perkins 4-108 for many years. Also sometimes use the Fram C1191A fuel filter. Have a friend who's a superb marine engineer who also uses Fram filters on his 4-108.

Doubt if there's any good reason not to, the manufacturer's impreachments notwithstanding.

Bill

[sdowney717]

FRAM - Part Details
fram cross lists all filters for different manufacturers

[onestepcsy37]

the best filter are reportedly made by a company called 'wix'. the filters you buy at any napa store are made by wix and branded napa. i pay a few bucks more for them but get some peace of mind. thats just my opinion.....

[sww914]

Any linoleum salesman will always tell you that linoleum is the best surface for your floors.

[svHyLyte]

Some years ago I asked one of the diesel mechanics at a local shipyard about this convention and his explaination was that the Perkins Filters incorporate a high pressure by-pass valve that will allow oil to circulate in the event the filter assembly becomes obstructed (dirty oil being better than none). Supposedly, other filters do not incorporate this by-pass. Whether the foregoing is actually so, or whether it matters considering how frequently most people change oil/filters aboard ship is another question, eh? In any case, since then I have used only Perkins filters (4-108) but if other, less costly, filters are acceptable, I'd like to know.

[Dulcesuenos]

nearly All engine oil filters have a high pressure bypass valve . this does nothing though to prevent a filter frrom ballooning up if there is a blockage in the oil galleys after the filter.
Not all filters have an anti drainback or back flow valve that supposedly helps keep some oil up in the filter etc to prevent dry starts.
That being stated, many diesels have higher oil press and higher vollume pumps then gas engines. Not sure this changes the set release psi on the HPBPV.

[GordMay]

Some engines have Oil Pressure Relief Bypass Valves built into the block, and some (apparently including Perkins) require the bypass to be part of the Filtre.
See ➥ http://fram.com/sites/default/f/uplo...threevital.pdf

[Hannah on 'Rita T']

We've used Frams in our 4-236 for 20 years with no problem. Change every 50 hours in theory, occasionally closer to 100 in practice.

[svHyLyte]

Originally Posted by GordMay

Some engines have Oil Pressure Relief Bypass Valves built into the block, and some (apparently including Perkins) require the bypass to be part of the Filtre.
See ➥ http://fram.com/sites/default/f/uplo...threevital.pdf

Gordo--

From the foregoing can one safely assume that FRAM filters are the equal of the Perkins?

[GordMay]

I don’t know who make the Perkins branded oil filtres, so cannot judge if Fram’s are truly “equal” (quality), but Fram do have the ByPass.

See also this opinion, excerpted from ➥ Oil filters - Mechanical Database

Fram Extra Guard
Years ago Fram was a quality filter manufacturer. Now their standard filter (the radioactive-orange cans) is one of the worst out there. It features cardboard end caps for the filter element that are glued in place. The rubber anti-drainback valve seals against the cardboard and frequently leaks, causing dirty oil to drain back into the pan. The bypass valves are plastic and are sometimes not molded correctly, which allows them to leak all the time. The stamped-metal threaded end is weakly constructed and it has smaller and fewer oil inlet holes, which may restrict flow. I had one of these filters fail in my previous car. The filter element collapsed and bits of filter and glue were circulating through my system. The oil passage to the head became blocked and the head got so hot from oil starvation that it actually melted the vacuum lines connected to it as well as the wires near it.

Fram Double Guard
Another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram. The filter itself is a slightly improved design over the Fram Extra Guard, but still uses the same filter element. It has a silicone anti-drainback valve, a quality pressure relief valve, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The big problem is that they are trying to cash in on the Slick 50 craze. They impregnate the filter element with bits of Teflon like that found in Slick 50. As with Slick 50, Teflon is a solid and does not belong in an engine. It cannot get into the parts of the engine that oil can and therefore does nothing. Also, as the filter gets dirty, it ends up filtering the Teflon right out. DuPont (the manufacturer of Teflon) does not recommend Teflon for use in internal combustion engines. Please do not waste your money on this filter.

Fram High Mileage
Yet another bad filter idea brought to you by your friends at Fram! Gotta love these guys. It's a Fram Extra Guard with a weird goo cartridge suspended on the clean side of the filter, blocking the outlet. It's supposed to be some kind of additive package, but if you want a high mileage oil, buy a high mileage oil. I don't trust these guys...sorry.

Fram Tough Guard
Even with all the problems of the other Fram filters, this one is not too bad. It has a heavier filter element with more surface area, a silicone anti-drainback valve, the cheap pressure relief valve, but with an integral screen to keep out large particles, and enough inlet holes for good flow. The only other drawback to this filter is that it is capped on each end with cardboard instead of metal. Looking in through the center outlet does not reveal any paper end caps, but they are there. I personally do not use this filter, but the design didn't have enough bad qualities to cause me to tell others to avoid it.

If you look into the center hole all the way to the top of the filter, you will see a kind of "button" in the end cap of the cartridge (which looks like it's made of metal from there). This is the plastic bypass valve, on the Fram “Tough Guard” oil filtre.