floors - polyurethane?

[farotherside]

hey all,

I want to sand and paint my cabin sole - see attached photo. what products do you recommend?

any worries about slipperyness?

[mike d.]

Varnish 2 oz. neats foot oil; per qt. makes it slip proof

[Stu Jackson]

I used minwax poly, no slipping.

[scarlet]

Wait.... Did you say sand and paint???? That photo looks like wood. . Is it something else? If it is wood... Maybe we can find a better alternative than painting them because it would be a shame to paint them.

[Tillsbury]

It looks like a beautiful bit of wooden floor. Personally I'd sand it, from 40 grit through to about 150, then apply about 4-5 coats of a fully hardening Danish Oil. Please don't ruin good timber by putting polyurethane on it...

[chowdan]

Agreed with everyone else. Dont paint, sand it, oil or varnish it. I'd personally oil it as reapplying is easy

[Chotu]

I'll vote against oil. Darkens wood, very full/matte looking. Wears out quickly.

I used outdoor minwax polyurethane on a teak and Holly sole with great results. Varnish is better apparently.

[Tillsbury]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I'll vote against oil. Darkens wood, very full/matte looking. Wears out quickly.

I used outdoor minwax polyurethane on a teak and Holly sole with great results. Varnish is better apparently.

With respect, use better oils... Superyachts, heritage restorations, museums, they all use oils to avoid darkening and damaging the wood, and for long life.

[Sand crab]

Many are installing the adhesive backed cork tile floors. Non skid, inexpensive and done in a day. Did I mention inexpensive?

[mvweebles]

I installed a teak parquet floor about 20-years ago. For the top coat, I went to a wholesale place for hardwood floors. The guy behind the counter talked me into a water based product that was squeegeed on. He said they use it on basketball courts and in entrance ways to retail stores like The Gap. Went on easily, dried fast, and has worn like iron. Some water damage near fridge after 20-years, but otherwise, I'm happy. Definitely has my vote compared to oil based polyurethane that takes forever to dry.

Good luck!

[mvweebles]

BTW - the water based product was a two part product. Mixed very milky. Dried clear without any coloration (polyurethane dries with a slightly gold hue)!

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

With respect, use better oils... Superyachts, heritage restorations, museums, they all use oils to avoid darkening and damaging the wood, and for long life.

I used the best, most pure tung oil available. Natural stuff. It just didn’t look good. And it’s not shiny enough. You could still damage the wood also. It didn’t provide much protection. Small impacts could leave a mark.

[Tillsbury]

Originally Posted by Chotu

I used the best, most pure tung oil available. Natural stuff. It just didn’t look good. And it’s not shiny enough. You could still damage the wood also. It didn’t provide much protection. Small impacts could leave a mark.

Tung oil, sadly, isn't much use except decoratively. Not a good plan on a floor. Natural doesn't mean good. You would be better with a tough, waterproof hardening oil.

[Chotu]

Originally Posted by Tillsbury

Tung oil, sadly, isn't much use except decoratively. Not a good plan on a floor. Natural doesn't mean good. You would be better with a tough, waterproof hardening oil.

Could you provide some examples? That would be pretty helpful. For me and the OP.

[Tillsbury]

I'm not sure what would be available in the country you're in, sorry...