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Old 13-08-2011, 18:14   #16
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Re: Filling Large Crack in Teak

you can use PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive.
Mix it with some similar colored or type sawdust 30 to 40% sawdust to glue. The PL wont darken the filler like epoxy does so the line will be less noticeable.
fill the crack with the mix then take a cereal plastic bag and press it down. As it sets it will swell and fill the crevices and cracks and stay slightly rubbery. The stuff is 100% waterproof and sands well with a random orbit and also is stainable.
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Old 13-08-2011, 20:33   #17
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Re: Filling Large Crack in Teak

If you don't want to change the board, then you can take Teak sawdust, mix it with epoxy and press it into the cracks. Then after it cures, sand smooth. I have "fixed" a lot of holes and other cracks this way successfully.
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Old 13-08-2011, 21:13   #18
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Re: Filling Large Crack in Teak

Drill a small hole at each end of the check as previously noted. Get a contrasting piece of wood and inlay the check as is (cedar?). Then butterfly across all at one third and again at two thirds with yet another wood, maybe a dark exotic hardwood.

A couple hundred hours of labor and it'll be right as rain.

Or just west systems epoxy with some adhesive filler placed with syringes (curecurecure) then a second coat with a sandable filler and go sailing instead.
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Old 13-08-2011, 23:02   #19
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Re: Filling Large Crack in Teak

Has anyone mentioned teak sawdust and epoxy?
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Old 13-08-2011, 23:26   #20
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...well there is always teak dust and epoxy...
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Old 14-08-2011, 00:46   #21
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Re: Filling Large Crack in Teak

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Originally Posted by sanjuanman View Post
...well there is always teak dust and epoxy...
Teak dust and epoxy is a very poor way to address this problem. However
people have different levels of acceptability. IMHO outside of removing the plank and either replacing or in your case gluing and clamping the crack with an "Industrial" super glue inlaying is the only other meathod that will produce a good result. When I recoulked my teak decks in 08" I made over thirty repairs to the deck this way and today most are invisible.
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Old 14-08-2011, 02:14   #22
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Depending on size and disposition of the crack, either rout it out and fill with caulking so looks like two crafted pieces or alternatively add a covering piece so that total thickness is maybe double. I agree with Nick that current piece is too thin to live happily on it's own.
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Old 14-08-2011, 05:43   #23
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Re: Filling Large Crack in Teak

I had a deep chasm in my toe rail and filled it with epoxy. I took several applications to get it level. It has not spread and appears infinitely better although it is obviously repaired. Covered with Cetol though it looks like a darker vein in the wood. I had not considered the teak dust addition and this sounds like a clever improvement but I think I would leave that for the last coat as it might compromise the strength of the bond.
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Old 14-08-2011, 10:28   #24
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Re: Filling Large Crack in Teak

Quote:
Originally Posted by sdowney717 View Post
you can use PL Premium polyurethane construction adhesive.
Mix it with some similar colored or type sawdust 30 to 40% sawdust to glue. The PL wont darken the filler like epoxy does so the line will be less noticeable.
fill the crack with the mix then take a cereal plastic bag and press it down. As it sets it will swell and fill the crevices and cracks and stay slightly rubbery. The stuff is 100% waterproof and sands well with a random orbit and also is stainable.
I like this idea... one reason filling with epoxy allows the crack to show (even filled with teak dust) is it always seems to be darker. Once varnished though... it'll look fine either way...
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Old 14-08-2011, 11:46   #25
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Re: Filling Large Crack in Teak

x2 on route and inlay. It's the only proffesional answer, everything else will look godawful. I use a porter cable laminate trimmer instead of a full sized router pretty often, it'll get much closer to edges and corners, leaving you with less chisel work. It's also just much smaller, lighter and easier to handle in a confined space. In an open space like the OP's you can use a skilsaw with a thin-kerf blade and set the depth perfect. Then use a fairing batten to get the right curve and provide an edge to run along same as a router. With this sort of thing you can also sometimes epoxy it up and then lam a fresh veneer on top to make it look brand new with minimal effort. Edge-banding usually required. Depends on radius size. If you want to remove it for replacement and it's bonded on too well to remove without damaging something, try removing all fasteners and using a power plane on max depth of cut just plane it off. I've done whole decks like that, goes surprisingly quick...
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