So now that you have assimilated all of that, You can save some $$ by shopping
from US Composites. Fillers and glass too. Fiberglass , Epoxy , Composites, Carbon Fiber - U.S. Composites, Inc.
I prefer the 635 thin for best wet-out. I use a throw away brush for mixing and for smoothing the layers and coaxing out the air.
If you are handy and can see a way to form the lay-up to near net shape you will probably be OK. DO taper back the joint for a long lap to the old surface. Personally, I might choose to ignore the issue of replacing the core
material in kind and fill it solid using glass or a filler of chopped glass and microballoons. Plan all of you moves and have your pre-cut, fitted cardboard forms and plasitic release film, weights, clamps, shoring etc. Have a box of disposable rubber (PVC) gloves and discard them often as they get gunked and too sticky to be useful.
I have been pretty successful at the cosmetic part deck repairs
using diluted AWL GRIP mixed with flattening agents and a small roller. Your boat may have a patterned non-skid molded into the deck
. This can be duplicated but you may need to ask a pro how its done. I suspect you might need to make a cast of an untouched area and transfer the pattern to the correct uncured resin mix. I decided on our boat to never use any 1-part paints. Any subsequent 2-part will attack the 1-part substrate. Your deck is probably gel coat unless you find it re-coated. If it is repainted you need to follow the paint
maker's instructions to figure out what is there.
The killer for you is to make sure the deck joint and all of the toe rail bolts are totally water
tight. You can live with minor cosmetics but leaks
- no. If leaks
into the core
of the hull
or deck there will be trouble.