Thanks for the replies!
Can the wood be stained first before applying the resin, it appears boat wood is stained first or how do they obtain the rich colors you see in boat hulls?
3M did finally return my call today and they were great, really thorough about the process.
They said they have not had anyone use the product for this application but thought it would probably work fine.
Here's the steps they gave:
1. Sand the wood walls with 80 grit paper, then remove all dust.
2. Obtain throw away able paint
: small rollers, roller pans and brushes
, for batch applications.
3. Using the disappearing reinforcement fiberglass-mat, instead of the -cloth, is easier to work with.
4. Plan out and precut the fiberglass into workable panels
, first cutting panels
for only a 1" overlap over all wood wall joint seams.
5. The batch is very smelly until fully cured(several days), so vent the room well.
Mix in small batches of 1 quart resin, or less at a time to allow enough time to apply to the wall before hardening:
In a container of pre-measured resin, add exactly 12 drops of hardener Per ounce of resin.
Mix batch very quickly and thoroughly using a good paint mixing paddle, be sure to mix the hardener to the entire measured resin by scraping the sides and bottom of the container.
6. Pour the batch into the roller tray.
Keep in mind the batch left in large pools hardens faster so spread it out onto the wall soon.
Application to wall seams only:
7. Apply the batch to the wall seams working it well into the wall's cut edges with a brush, to help seal them(ideally the cut water-vulnrible edges would be sealed before assembly).
Apply the batch slightly wider than where the fiberglass panels will be applied over the wall seams.
Embed the fiberglass seam panels on the wet wall batch, then cover with more batch.
8. If there are bubbles under the fiberglass, use the paint brush with batch to release them.
9. If there are areas the fiberglass has not disappeared, it's still dry, so apply more batch on top. Work out any runs and gravity sagging of the batch.
10. If a batch coat dries, sand it with 220 grit before applying a new coat so the new coat sticks to the old.
Application to all wall surfaces including seams:
11. Then cut fiberglass panels to cover the entire walls in workable sections, including the seams(yes the seams get 2 fiberglass layers in the finished product).
12. Next, apply batch coats to the entire walls working in workable stages/sections, embedding the mat into the wet wall-batch, then covering with more batch, Then apply where desired, the artful book pages and cover them with more batch.
No further layers of batch are needed, the wall coating should be adequately strong and sealed.
13. Do not allow the walls to come into contact with water
till full cured, at least several days.
14. If needed, silicone mildew resistant caulk-seal any fixture wall penetrations/concealing covers.
15. As an extra protection from stains, apply carnuba wax to the wall, let haze and cloth rubbed off.
15. The walls smell will dissipate as they age.
16. Over the years, if the walls loose their clarity, they can be sanded with 800 grit paper and then power buffed.
I didn't ask them about staining the walls and not sure if wall stain would be visible through the fiberglass mat?
If visible, a dark stain may make the double layer of fiberglass mat, over the wall seams, more obvious?