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Old 11-06-2010, 08:39   #1
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Even More Diesel Stuff...

1. Put polishing filter/pump in totally separate loop with separate dip tube(s) at very bottom of tank. 2. Put polishing pump FIRST in stream Pump ---> separator ----> recirc. filter ----> tank Recirc pump should have integral screen to protect pump. Pressure feed filtration is more efficient than vacuum feed filtration. 3. Is that a 3 way valve between primary filters? Replace 3 way with two valves. 4. Run primary filters in parallel with block and bypass .... so that BOTH primary filters are always ON in circuit. Only need to lock out and block to change. Reason: less extrusion of 'deformable' particles through filters (double the surface area equates to 1/2 fluid velocity through filters) AND much longer on-stream life if overwhelmed by 'hard' particles. 4a. With recirc. polisher on its own independent circuit - no need for manifold or redundant valves. 5. Use flared connections for tubes. Compression connections/fitting are notorious 'leakers'. Avoid use of copper tube - reactive with diesel on long term shutdown. 6. Apply vacuum gages to all filters to monitor operation. .... or differential vacuum (pressure) switch (with variable set point) wired to alarm.

I might want to be able to use the polishing pump to "push" the fuel into the engine after a change of secondery filter (the one on the engine) as it always introduce air into the system. Before my electric polish pump I was using the manual pump on the engine after each change. (Not so good, long time, and I need to be on a hot engine to do it in an emergency) also side product is in areal bind when both primey filters are not providing enough fuel (bad conatmination problem) you can "push" fuel into the engine (for short time only as disaster strike).

Torresen Marine, Inc. - Sailing and Boating Forums • View topic - Starting Stubborn Diesel Engines - Just Say No To Ether
Nearly every week customers ask us about how to overcome starting
difficulties with their diesel engine. Nearly as often, the
subject of starting fluids and ether accompanies the
conversation. It appears that we all want a quick fix. Instead
of getting to the root of the problem we look for a magic potion
that will solve the problem in a spray form.
Not only does the use of ether not solve the problem, it also is
liable to shorten the life of the engine by causing serious
damage. The damage could include cracked piston ring grooves or
the rings and pistons themselves. When a cylinder fires from
normal injection, the fuel burns for the entire stroke of the
piston. Ether explodes when the compression gets it hot enough
and that could be well before the piston is at the top of its
compression stroke and the forces exerted are well beyond the
design of the engine.
Our recommendation is simple. Stay away from ether.
There are a number of things that must be right to start any
engine, especially on the first try of the day. Here is a
summary list you should consider (not in any specific order):
1 - Valves should be properly adjusted
2 - Starter motor must be in good condition - after years of
service, it is not unlikely that there is wear in the starter
motor that slows its speed. Slow speed can be critical to cold
3 - Battery - if it is nearing the end of its life or wasn't
rated properly to begin with, it could be the cause of slower
starter motor speed. Batteries must be of good quality and
fully charged.
4 - Battery cables must be properly sized and in good condition.
All connectors should be clean. Tight connection does not always
mean a good connection. Failing wires and/or the connections
could result in reduced power to the starter motor
5 - Lubricating oil should be to specification.
6 - Fuel octane level should be 45 or higher. A good quality
fuel is an important part of running your diesel engine.
7 - The end of the fuel return line should be submerged in fuel.
8 - Injection timing - very critical and the most difficult to
correct. This should be the last thing to evaluate and correct.
If evaluation and correction of the above doesn't give the
results you want, the symptoms are those of lowered compression.
A compression test, made with the proper tester, can confirm
this. You may even want to do this before trying to set the
injection timing.
In the mean time - if you have access to electrical power, try
putting the output of a hair dryer into the air inlet on the
engine for a few minutes before the first start of the day. It
can work wonders, but it won't correct your problems.
Hard starting can be attributed to a number of reasons, including
compression, HP fuel pump, fuel, air intake, injector, injection
timing, etc.
If you have used ether, there is a good chance that you have
broken a piston or possibly a piston ring. Try taking the
compression with your rubber nosed compression tester. If you can
hold it in the hole, your compression is too low. You are looking
for pressures that approach 400PSIG and it takes a pretty
sophisticated set-up to read it.

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Old 11-06-2010, 09:30   #2
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Is this a vendor post?

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Old 11-06-2010, 09:40   #3
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Absolutely Not. There is a difference between quoting sources accurately and spamming. The point was to pass on the information. However having done that and said that....discussing the 'meat' of the post is up to others. I'm going sailing (grin) for about three years.


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Old 11-06-2010, 13:50   #4
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