Epoxy + Varnish Method for 2-sides?

[GuidoY]

Hi all,

For those of you versed in the varnish-over-epoxy method of bright work: when replacing wood do you normally seal both sides of those parts only exposed to the elements from above, i.e. dorade tops, winch islands? Or do you just coat the tops?

So far I've only done the tiller and dropboards which were sealed all the way round.

Thanks much!

[Roy M]

I subscribe to the belief that water can make its way into anything. Therefore, if I don't want that possibility, I seal everything first with epoxy. Then I apply whatever I want for the intended purpose. For example, I just wooded down my handrails and hatch coamings for cosmetic reasons. I then sealed all the accessible surfaces with West System, using the 207 Special Hardener, for its added UV protection qualities. Several coats later, everything looks like it has been coated with about ten coats of perfect varnish. But that's just the base coat. Now, I am about to apply 2-3 coats of clear linear polyurethane finish to the sanded epoxy base. After several months of exposure (and pridefully showing off the beautiful teak finish) I will coat the clear LPU with the same paint I use for my primary hull color. This is because I am preparing to sail over the horizon to some very sunny places. When I am done wandering, should I be insane enough to want to show off the teak (which I would do if I were going to sell the boat) I merely have to sand off the outer layer of white, getting to the clear, then apply one coat of shine. I've done this for other cruising boats heading off to Mexico and beyond. Now it's my turn.

[gonesail]

if you have the luxury (and the extra time and money) then seal all sides. as previously stated water can make its way into anything almost anywhere. especially plywood.

[GuidoY]

Great, thanks! I've got some ply and some solid sapele to do. Looks like I'll be working on it a little longer.

[Roy M]

GuidoY, just remember, epoxy doesn't hold up too well to ultraviolet rays of the sun, so you have to protect it with something that is either formulated with UV protection (not for as long as we'd like, though) or covered with an opaque paint.

[GuidoY]

I'm using the Epifanes clear gloss which has it. It doesn't seem real forgiving to novices, but looks pretty good overall. May try the petit 1015/2015 next time.

[UNCIVILIZED]

Depending on what it is that you're coating, & whether it's horizontal, or vertical, you can @ times get away with less (but thicker) coats of epoxy by flow coating. Prior to varnishing. It makes for a sweet, smooth finish when done properly, & cuts down on labor.


Russell Brown (in addition to the usual reading) has some great tips, etc. on working with epoxies in his book(s)/e-book.

[Roy M]

GuidoY, All of the clear coatings are short lasting, especially the varnishes. Perhaps 4-6 months is the best you will get. Clear polyurethane gives you more longevity, but nothing lasts like an opaque LPU. But then, it doesn't look like a piece of furniture. I don't expect to be troubled by that when I am basking in tropical sun, surrounded by very few critics of my teak camouflage. It only seems to matter to folks who really need shiny teak to say what they want to say about their boats.

[deblen]

5 yrs ago,I stripped my teak & holly veneered plywood cockpit floor & seats,using the pour & spread flooding method.I did bottom,top & edges,to completely encapsulate the plywood. I then sanded & varnished (several coats) with Epifanes for UV protection.
Within 2 yrs,small pea size yellow spots started to appear. Last week,the epoxy was bubbling & I lifted it off in sheets. The wood steamed in the hot sun-it was soaked.
I have used this same epoxy for various structural work & no problems.

I have seen varnished epoxy peel off of teak handrails also.

From my experiences,I can't recommend using epoxy coated with clear marine UV varnish on exterior wood. Perhaps,if you varnish every 6mos. or use opaque UV paint,it might stay.
However,in my case,the "totally encapsulated" wood managed to soak up enough moisture from somewhere (the marine air?) to cause de-lamination of the epoxy.

Just my experience FYI / Len

[Defeverboat]

No epxy no varnish ������ Le Tonkinois from Hamilton Marine. ������

[Mithril Bham]

Absolutely seal all sides.

[boeing1]

yes, seal all sides if possible, I only use Epifanes varnish, yes varnish is more work, and you have to keep up with it but I like the look of varnish....

[cabo_sailor]

I've seen the epoxy/varnish jobs and they were gorgeous. The time I tried it, it was a total disaster. I spent hours stripping, sanding and otherwise prepping my companionway ladder. I then applied a coat of West System resin with West's 207 clear hardener. It looked great! Until the next morning when I went to admire the job and found that when the epoxy kicked it turned liquid. I had all these epoxy stalactites all over the ladder and they were hard as a rock!! It took forever to get rid of the epoxy and prep the ladder again.

I later tried it again, on a smaller piece of wood, with the same results.

What was I doing wrong???

Rich

[verkerkbr]

I have tried several system on my woodwork. Have done an epoxy treatment in the past. It is a lot of work and you have to seal it with several PU coats because of UV. This looks nice. But after a while you get damages to the wood. And then it is difficult what to do.

Repair the damaged spots with an epoxie and then the PU finish ? Epoxie partly over the PU coats does this work ?.

I have left the epoxie treatment. I now only use a 2 part PU Clearcoat on my woodwork and this must be repeated every year. Repairing damaged spots is easy with the same product.

On the teak seats in the cockpit I use a product called Coelan. This is a very elastic PU coating and last for years. It has not as bright as the PU coating I use on the handrails.

But for wooden cockpit seats it is an ideal product.

[Defeverboat]

Le Tonkinois linseed varnish after eight months