Epoxy Resin Guesstimate Request!

[Horror Hotel]

Happy, take a look at RAKA epoxies in FL. I've been using their well priced products for many years. More resin you buy cheaper it gets, a 3 gallon kit is comparably priced to a gallon of west w/ hardener.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by atoll

i would put some cardboard and plastic sheeting down on that nice clean garage floor as well before you start!,and on any mixing surfaces!

I already have the "resin station" counter fully decked out with the cardboard mat from the last project...

+1 on the floor!

(22' hull repair pics... mollusk gel intrusion repair, fair, barrier, bottom paint)

[atoll]

Originally Posted by Boatguy30

DAY JOB !?!?!?

If you cool the to foam it will expand less and fill less final volume. You would want the 16lb for rudders which expands less anyway. For large flotation areas you want it around room temp, mix fat and pour.

Have fun.

http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/met...iquidfoam.html
upto 20c,no less than 10c
edit
Producing the foam

Use two plastic cups to measure out an equal volume of each part, then pour both components into a mixing container. Stir thoroughly but quickly- the mixture will begin to thicken in 25-35 seconds, and must be poured into the cavity to be filled up to approximately 25 times its original volume, reaching its maximum rise in about 150 seconds. It should be left to set. It will reach a sticky condition in about 4 minutes and will be completely cured in about half an hour . The uncured mix is highly adhesive and should bond to most materials. Whilst the mixture is foaming take care not to inhale the fumes. Insufficient foam may be generated due to incorrect proportions of components, inadequate mixing, too low working temperature (optimum working temperatures is 20ºC) do not use below 10ºC or using a restricted mould.

Polyurethane foam can be used for structural stiffening in masts and booms- with minimal increase in weight; accoustic and thermal insulation, rapid prototype shapes in fibreglass and lightweight foamed shapes produced in wood, fibreglass or metal moulds. Each liquid kilo of polyurethane yields approximately 0.08m2 (1 cu.ft.) of rigid foam and will support 27 kg in water.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Horror Hotel

Happy, take a look at RAKA epoxies in FL. I've been using their well priced products for many years. More resin you buy cheaper it gets, a 3 gallon kit is comparably priced to a gallon of west w/ hardener.

Wha???

I thought US was the place for large qty....
$290 for 5+1.6 gal

I go Jamestown Total for gal or less...

IMMA CHECK RAKA OUT FOR SURE!!!!

[colemj]

Do I understand your laminate schedule correctly - 6 layers of 1708 on a rudder? If so, that is WAY overkill.

I'm going with 5 gallons necessary for that. Four if it is thinner resin and you use it perfectly - but I would keep extra around anyway.

Also check out fgci.com - I like their epoxies and prices.

Mark

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by atoll

Pouring Polyurethane Liquid Foam – Fibreglass, Glass Fibre, Gelcoat, GRP, Polyester Epoxy Resin - CFS Fibreglass Supplies

Producing the foam... (redacted)

Thanks Alex... Super info!

Originally Posted by colemj

Do I understand your laminate schedule correctly - 6 layers of 1708 on a rudder? If so, that is WAY overkill.

I'm going with 5 gallons necessary for that. Four if it is thinner resin and you use it perfectly - but I would keep extra around anyway.

Also check out fgci.com - I like their epoxies and prices.

Mark

Jeezo Mark...

It kinda reads that way doesn't it??? Proposed is 2 to 3 layers around the bottom form blank and 2-3 around the whole blade... So possibly 4-6 on the bottom section, including the 2-3 entire blade wrap...

From what I understand, 4 layers gives me about 1/4". I was going to throw a kevlar tape on the leading and trailing edges too...

I know it sounds like a lot of material, but this thing is 11' long (blade 32"x65"x3"), and massively heavy, all of 500 lb I'll bet... Estimating the additional material to be far less than 10% of total... I have a 3k load cell, so I'll weigh it for fun...

If the original shell is 1/4", do you like the 3/16-1/4" blade wrap?

(over)

[colemj]

If the original uses that schedule, then I would not go less. I didn't understand the size of the thing. Was the original schedule biaxial and epoxy? If not, you are adding much more strength and impact resistance over CSM and poly - you could compensate for that, but I suppose it doesn't matter on a rudder that size.

Mark

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by colemj

If the original uses that schedule, then I would not go less. I didn't understand the size of the thing. Was the original schedule biaxial and epoxy? If not, you are adding much more strength and impact resistance over CSM and poly - you could compensate for that, but I suppose it doesn't matter on a rudder that size.

Mark

I can tell the original uses a 45 and a mat built to 1/4"... I didn't peel every layer though... Epoxy is what I like to work with ...

Builder's spec??? HAAAA.... Been down that road... ZERO HELP...

[Blue Crab]

Originally Posted by colemj

Do I understand your laminate schedule correctly - 6 layers of 1708 on a rudder? If so, that is WAY overkill... Mark

Dare we ask if it is a Hunter rudder?

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Blue Crab

Dare we ask if it is a Hunter rudder?

OUCH!!!!!!

And to think this comment was sitting here all night without a response...

Oh the huuuuuuuuuuuuumility....

or

Huemanatee!

[HappyMdRSailor]

PS:

Where the hell is minaret???

More importantly... Where was he before I bought all the stuff yesterday?

He's gunna have a tough fight not lettin' me goop on all this stuff I have coming...

Here.... sticky sticky sticky itchy glassman....

[minaret]

Originally Posted by HappyMdRSailor

PS:

Where the hell is minaret???

More importantly... Where was he before I bought all the stuff yesterday?

He's gunna have a tough fight not lettin' me goop on all this stuff I have coming...

Here.... sticky sticky sticky itchy glassman....

Lol!


Why you guys make this so complicated? You want a resin/fiber ratio of 50/50 or less. So weigh your cut glass, and get the same weight of resin plus 10% for wet out and loss after squeegee. If you do good quality work and get your resin ratio down around 40% or less, you will have resin left over. Don't forget your peel ply!



This is one way I ensure quality laminate by newbie laminators. If you put everything on the scale, and hand a guy a roll of cut glass with the same weight of resin and no more, he can't possibly make a rich laminate. Which almost any newbie laminator will do, if left to their own devices.

[minaret]

Originally Posted by HappyMdRSailor

I already have the "resin station" counter fully decked out with the cardboard mat from the last project...

+1 on the floor!

(22' hull repair pics... mollusk gel intrusion repair, fair, barrier, bottom paint)

You put a meter on that bottom?

[minaret]

Originally Posted by colemj

Do I understand your laminate schedule correctly - 6 layers of 1708 on a rudder? If so, that is WAY overkill.

I'm going with 5 gallons necessary for that. Four if it is thinner resin and you use it perfectly - but I would keep extra around anyway.

Also check out fgci.com - I like their epoxies and prices.

Mark

You'd really be traumatized by the laminate schedule on my rudder!

[Blue Crab]

Originally Posted by minaret

You'd really be traumatized by the laminate schedule on my rudder!

Meaning way thicker I'm guessing?