engine room paint

[Sailorman Ed]

Ok, both sail drives are out, one engine is out and the other is moved backward a few feet. Before I reinstall, I want to powerwash with some detergent, rinse and then apply some fresh white paint. Current paint is not bad but this seems like the time to improve it. I do not want to get crazy here, just brighten it up some. Latex or solvent based? Suggested manufacturer?
thanks,,,

[Tailwheel]

I like interlux Bilgekote. Excellent stuff, but you must wear protective breathing gear appropriate for voc.


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[Ex-Calif]

I was very happy with Danboline - Covered well and is holding up well. Dries hard as nails and very shiny.

The two posts in my haulout thread show before and after...

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...ml#post1053125

[model 10]

Even though it may work, Using latex once is a commitment to using latex forever and that might not be a good thing.
I also think Bilgecoat is good stuff for a quick and easy paint job and it's fumes don't seem that bad to me.

[40 South]

I have used paving paint with great results. The stuff used to paint driveways and garage floors. Not expensive, dries quickly, tough (you can drive cars on it!) and is resistant to grease oil and saltwater. Comes in multiple colours including white. In the bilge of a commercial boat for seven years (sold boat) without needing any touching up.

Edit: before & after

[SailRedemption]

I used basic gloss epoxy.. Doesn't stain, hard and durable and sticks to improperly prepared surfaces and will "burn" itself to anything just about. Like 50 Bucks a gallon.

I also used international 990 white with a hint of white in it do do the aides and the bulkheads where the electronic equipment will be mounted. Nice gloss and adds a little extra to it.

[Ex-Calif]

Originally Posted by 40 South

I have used paving paint with great results. The stuff used to paint driveways and garage floors. Not expensive, dries quickly, tough (you can drive cars on it!) and is resistant to grease oil and saltwater. Comes in multiple colours including white. In the bilge of a commercial boat for seven years (sold boat) without needing any touching up.

Edit: before & after

That is pretty amazing - seven years and you still don't have the engine back in yet - LOL...

(sorry, I am too much of a smartass sometimes...)

[Sailorman Ed]

I degreased twice, power wash twice and vacuumed all the water up. And gave it a nice coat of Rustoleum white - turned out great!!

[Blue Stocking]

20 years on exterior acrylic enamel concrete paint. 1500psi Teepol power wash every year. no touch up needed yet.

[model 10]

What I would like to know is which one smells the least. I hate to smell anything in the cabin for days.

[boatpoker]

Tremclad or Rustoleum (same thing, different brands) cheapest paint out there I have painted my bilges/engine compartment and yes both engines pictured below with it for over twenty years ... have seen nothing better.

[Nicholson58]

Originally Posted by Sailorman Ed

Ok, both sail drives are out, one engine is out and the other is moved backward a few feet. Before I reinstall, I want to powerwash with some detergent, rinse and then apply some fresh white paint. Current paint is not bad but this seems like the time to improve it. I do not want to get crazy here, just brighten it up some. Latex or solvent based? Suggested manufacturer?
thanks,,,

I use Sherwin Williams 2-part epoxy industrial waterproofing "tank" paint - white. This is essentially gloss white pool paint but costs way less. Two versions are available; fast & very fast. Stick with fast. Only mix about a cup or two at a time. I dilute it with lacquer thinner or acetone. It hardens quickly and is impervious to everything. Use throw-away brushes. We have painted the inside of the hull everywhere you would see it if a cabinet or hatch is open or floor removed. The white lets you see everything in low light. Unmixed shelf life is good. I have a part set over two years old. I am not sure how it would fare over standard 1-part paints.