Engine Room clean and insulate

[GILow]

Originally Posted by Mocking

I know Whitworths have the BUT I would have to sell the boat and my grandmother to pay for it

Ain't that the truth. I very reluctantly threw ours out as it was soaked in diesel. Please report back on what defender say about shipping because I am in need of the same sort of thing.


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[GILow]

FWIW Repco sell a water based spray on sound deadener for car underbodies. It is nonflammable and made a huge difference to the early model mini I did up recently. I will be using it when I do our engine room, in conjunction with the foam sheets. (After I have sold Grandma)


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[SailRedemption]

I completely redid my engine space and didn't cut many corners. I hardly hear my yanmar 4hj4-te 75hp turbo engine even when at load. Idle it's hardly noticeable from the cockpit. I did a write up on my site about it and the stuff I used. Not sure if you can get the stuff in Australia but at least you have an idea.

http://wp.me/p4mK8E-4D

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[SSgtPitt]

SailRedemption, just read your ER blog and MAN that's impressive....and then I got to the bottom and it says.."to be continued". AARgh!! There's no button to click for Episode 2.

[Cheechako]

Why remove the old glue? You are just going to add more right?

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by Mocking

Hey HappyMdSailor
Thank you for those leads, I have sent them an email to see of they ship or have a distributor over here.
And Granny is happy now she has her new turbo , solar powered self sharpening false teeth

Ha! Ya got me!

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Why remove the old glue? You are just going to add more right?

Sometimes wisdom comes in the simplest of thoughts....

[HappyMdRSailor]

There's a few fire retardant sound barriers on this page...

Some aren't too awful crazy priced...

McMaster-Carr

[redsky49]

From the McMaster catalog quoted above:

"Fiberglass sheeting consists of a yellow fiberglass absorber, a vinyl barrier, and a corrosion- and tear-resistant reinforced aluminum foil facing. It’s also known as lagging. Temperature range is -20° to 180° F. Can be used outdoors. Meets ASTM E84 15/20 for flame and smoke."


This is the type of material that should be considered for engine rooms. The lower that ASTM E84 number, the better performing it is.


That being said, the listed sound attenuating data is vague, and should probably only be used for comparisons between the various grades being offered by McMaster.


For general sound attenuation - decoupling, attention to cracks and gaps, deciding between absorption versus reflectance, frequency range, etc., are all important factors, which is why I would generally consult with an acoustics engineer for super critical scientific and audio applications. Engine rooms, not so much...



A good general approach might include both a reflective and absorptive combination, such as a fiberglass/lead sandwich with a cleanable outward surface. As good as lead is as a dampener, you rarely see it employed in newer construction.


Remember to allow combustion air ingress, but don't allow that to be the path for sound to escape.

[Terra Nova]

That f'glass is for thermal, not acoustical insulation.

[redsky49]

Originally Posted by Terra Nova

That f'glass is for thermal, not acoustical insulation.

Actually, it performs quite well for acoustic applications, and is used in various industries. Note that this is not typical fiberglass mat as used in attic insulations.

Here, for example, is the Manville link to their semi-rigid fiberglass board. You will see that they list the flame/smoke criteria as well as the noise attenuation. They are up front about their products testing and performance. This is what you should demand of any vendor.

http://www.jm.com/content/dam/jm/glo...Glas%20REV.pdf

The above item would be overkill, but illustrates my point and was an easy Google result.

[SailRedemption]

Originally Posted by SSgtPitt

SailRedemption, just read your ER blog and MAN that's impressive....and then I got to the bottom and it says.."to be continued". AARgh!! There's no button to click for Episode 2.

Thanks, it was a good bit of work but I think it was worth it! That second part is coming out this week, stay tuned!

Originally Posted by Cheechako

Why remove the old glue? You are just going to add more right?

I don't think I removed mine, I believe I just sanded everything down with an DA/orbital sander, then wiped it down with lacquer thinner or something and called it good before I painted it with the sound paint. Mine wasn't all that sticky, it was actually kinda hard and cured.. I guess if the new adhesive will work on top of the old then go for it, but if not I assume removing it one way or another will need to be done.

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[SailRedemption]

Originally Posted by SSgtPitt

SailRedemption, just read your ER blog and MAN that's impressive....and then I got to the bottom and it says.."to be continued". AARgh!! There's no button to click for Episode 2.

It has been updated Sgt Pitt! Go check it out.. I'm working on finished the little stuff up in there then the last of the series will go up.

Ronnie

See more @ redemptiverepair.com

[rognvald]

When I redid my engine compartment, I removed the old glue that had hardened with a Multimaster using either a scraper blade or a 60 grit pad. After the surface was clean, I sanded and varnished the interior surface with synthetic varnish (polyurethane) before regluing my new insulation panels. I bought the materials from Sounddown in Ft. Lauderdale, Florida. It still looks like new after 15 years. Good luck.

[SSgtPitt]

Ahhhh, much better. I've got a Perkins 4-108 that'll want to come out before we start our adventures. Just for cleaning, tuning and checking, but your post has me anxious to get everything else clean, insulated, refurbished and consolidated. The boat is 33 years old after all.
I'd like to see photos of the wiring, hoses, fuel filter, fuel water separator and the myriad of other items that go in there.
If the engine ended up being higher, how did you get the shaft to line up?

[SailRedemption]

Originally Posted by SSgtPitt

Ahhhh, much better. I've got a Perkins 4-108 that'll want to come out before we start our adventures. Just for cleaning, tuning and checking, but your post has me anxious to get everything else clean, insulated, refurbished and consolidated. The boat is 33 years old after all.
I'd like to see photos of the wiring, hoses, fuel filter, fuel water separator and the myriad of other items that go in there.
If the engine ended up being higher, how did you get the shaft to line up?

That part is coming along now, shouldn't be on much longer.

Re the shaft, we had to move it back(forward really) a little more where the shaft was a bit higher.

I should have did the engine bedding right/better but it's working now and it's not technically wrong.

See more @ redemptiverepair.com