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| | #1 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Long Beach CA
Posts: 6
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The only reason to double clamp is the extra safety in case one fails. And I HAVE had a single clamped exhaust hose fail which promptly filled the bilge with hot salt water and the salon with steam. I just installed a new head and couldn't for the life of me figure out why I would need to double clamp a 3/4'" SUCTION hose. I agree with one poster and double clamp all my exhaust and fuel line fittings and single clamp everything else. As for using KY Jelly or Vaseline to make the hose easier to slip over the barb, NO NO NO NO! Do NOT do this!!! Use a heat gun to make the hose pliable enough to slip over the fitting. If you HAVE to use something to get it done then use some RTV or Teflon paste as both of these will dry and help seal the hose whereas the slippery goop will just stay slippery and help the hose to slip off the fitting. I know because I did that at work once.
__________________ Islander 36 'Trilogy' Long Beach CA |
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| | #2 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Puget Sound, WA
Boat: Choate 40
Posts: 3,921
| K-Y jelly
Actually K-Y is water soluable and dries up in a short period of time or rinses away when wet all the time. That's why I use the stuff on sewer and water lines. Never had a problem with it coming back off. Usually have to cut the hose to get it off! ............................................_/) |
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| | #3 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: gone sailing Australia
Boat: RR370
Posts: 191
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It is possible to buy narrow band hose clamps or special purpose non metallic all-in-one hose tails who can be plugged with purpose made bung instead of dowels.
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| | #4 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Fredericton, NB, Canada in the summer and fall; Caribbean in winter and spring aboard Cat Tales.
Boat: FP Tobago 35 - Cat Tales
Posts: 356
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Well, ErnieO, something to think about. But there is no way that the waste pipe is coming off. I couldn't get it off there at a truck pull.
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| | #5 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Long Beach CA
Posts: 6
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LOL Sono! That's funny and I do hear ya. As for the KY, well I've never used it (not for plumbing anyway) so I wasn't aware that it was water soluble.
__________________ Islander 36 'Trilogy' Long Beach CA |
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| | #6 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: May 2004 Location: LONG BEACH, CA.
Boat: PSC Crealock 34 - Amy Michele
Posts: 16
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ErnieO, depends on the plumbing, i supose?
__________________ heading south this oct 07 ![]() |
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| | #7 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 9
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Am fixing up a CT 41 to go cruising again, Have replaced all the through hulls and used polysulfide on the barbs first which acted as a lubricant to get the hoses on then double clamped as the surveyers make such a noise about it, try get that baby off!!! The white septic hose that is so hard to get on..... have tryed boiling water with little luck so in desperation used a propain torch and work gloves, slid right on.
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| | #8 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Puget Sound, WA
Boat: Choate 40
Posts: 3,921
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Lets hope you didn't over heat the material, cristalizing the plastic, making it brittle. That could be a stinking mess at sea.
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| | #9 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Lake Michigan
Posts: 85
| You guys aren't doin it right
I've always used dishwashing liquid. Makes cleanup easier and it helps to seal things up when it dries out. And you get that nice lemon fresh scent too!!! Greg |
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| | #10 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Fredericton, NB, Canada in the summer and fall; Caribbean in winter and spring aboard Cat Tales.
Boat: FP Tobago 35 - Cat Tales
Posts: 356
| Sanitation Hose
Well, I am an expert on sanitation hose now. To install a holding tank, I had to make 16 connections. I removed a square inch of skin between my thumb and forefinger until I realized that a steaming kettle, left under the pipe for a REALLY LONG TIME, makes the job easy. KY Jelly works better than anything else; and you have to watch the teflon spray. Many hose manufacturers write "No Petroleum Products" right on the hose. Still, double clamping those fittings seems stupid. As far as I am concerned, a single clamp is redundant, as they are so tight!
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| | #11 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Deale, Maryland
Boat: SeaView - Privilege 37
Posts: 834
| Double clamps $$$
Hmmmm.... Double clamps for each engine room, bilge pump, and shower pump connection. I am up to 146 clamps so far (Oh, catamarans have TWO engines! Double everything!)! At about $5 each, that is $730 to redo all the clamps, in titanium. Ouch! If I am using titanium clamps, do I really need to double clamp them? They are stronger than stainless and don't corrode! I think I'll compromise. Clean up the existing clamps that are serviceable, put on the titanium clamps as primary, and use the old stainless as a backup. Any opinions? |
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| | #12 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: C.L.O.D. (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 12,576
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Strygaldwir: and I gotta ask where that handle comes from? ![]() I think you are on the right track. 1. My original post indicated my opinion, that double-clamping is not always neccessary (or even desirable). 2. I think the Titanium clamps are a good idea, and not overpriced. 3. Attach a tapered soft-wood plug (cone) at each thru-hull fitting (the ultimate backup). FWIW Gord
__________________ Gord May ~~_/)_~~ (Gord & Maggie - "Southbound") "If you didn't have time/$ to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?" |
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| | #13 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Deale, Maryland
Boat: SeaView - Privilege 37
Posts: 834
| Titanium hose clamps
Gord I have just received the new titanium clamps from Titan. They are wonderfully light and appear to be of extrordinary quality. I am have started replacing the clamps. I started with the bilge pump clamps and am now on the fuel lines and fittings. All the clamps that I have found on the boat were "total" stainless. I even did the magnet test. They appear to be of good quality, but none-the-less all of the have rust. Half of them it was just surface type rust and it clean off easily. On the other hand many of them broke when I removed them. I do have to say though, that none of them were "frozen"! The screws would turn in all cases. The ones that were servicable, I soaked in Phosporic acid and that cleaned them up nicely. I am now using them as secondaries for the titanium clamps. Time will tell how the titanium holds up. So thanks for the tip! Even if it did cost me major $$$! ![]() The "correct" spelling is Strygalldwir. But you'll have to find some prince or something to tell you from what chaos it comes from. Keith |
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| | #14 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Clew Bay, Ireland
Boat: Bowman 57 -- Aleria
Posts: 15
| In which direction should two clamps align?
When using two hose clamps, should they be aligned in the same direction or in opposite directions?
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| | #15 | |
| Moderator ![]() Moderator Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: San Francisco Bay
Boat: research vessel
Posts: 4,660
| Quote:
What I don't do is leave the worm screw at the bottom where a drop of water could hang off it accelerating corrosion of these sometimes questionable worm screws. The screws themselves sometimes seem to have a higher iron content than the rest of the clamp. I have never been able to tell which are which...even when buying from a place like West Marine. Certainly never buy hose clamps from a home store, even if they say "stainless".
__________________ David Where land ends life begins. Last edited by David M; 21-08-2009 at 12:35. | |
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