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Old 05-12-2008, 08:04   #1
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Dolfinite, polysulphide or something else?

I need to bed down my boomgallows to my cetoled teak caprail. The feet of the boomgallows are round and each have 3 #14 screws that hold it to the caprail.
I have countersunk the holes slightly to accept a bedding material but not sure which to use....any advice would be greatly appreciated
Thanks
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:09   #2
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I personally prefer Sikaflex.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:12   #3
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Which one Chuck? Is this like 5200...in other words similar to a glue?
Thanks for the reply
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:14   #4
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Dolfinite would be good if not exceptional and polysulfide bad if not very bad. Polysufides don't come loose and don't remove without in your case taking some wood with it. You will some day, some time need to remove the gallows on that day you will know why. The dolfinite is to act as a sealer not an adhesive. The screws can hold far more than an adhesive could. The wood will fail before the adhesive would fail and the screws will hold best.

Be sure to seal the screw holes too. Water in a screw hole even in teak lumber will rot the teak over time. I spent a good deal of time this fall drilling out screw holes and replacing them with 3/8 inch bungs where the wood was rotted from seemingly trivial attachments. Teak turns black and becomes very weak.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:16   #5
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Silkaflex makes a full line of adhesives and sealants. The bedding stuff is amzing and so easy to work with. I would suggest what ever you use that you tape off the surrounding areas. You need to apply enough that it spreads out on all sides. The tape makes the mess easier. Boatlife calks are Ok too and I prefer anything over the 3M products.
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Old 05-12-2008, 08:24   #6
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Thanks for the reply. It is not possible to bung the screw hole as the screw has to go down through the SS foot.....in other words the screw head is above the surface of the SS foot.
Polysulphides in my experience are removable...perhaps you are thinking of 3M 5200? I would not use that either.
I realise that it would be dumb to think that I could "glue" down the boomgallows...
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Old 05-12-2008, 12:30   #7
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Polysulfides (LifeCaulk, 3m 101) stick very well but are not adhesives like some Polyurethanes (5200). You can remove polysulfide sealed parts without catastrophic damage to the wood. I've used LifeCaulk for over 40 years on everything and have never had a failure. The secret for removal is slow even pressure. If you can drive a chizel a short way under the piece or find some other way to torque the piece and leave it for a short while, the fitting will lift off. If you just rip off a piece you may get some wood with the part. I like PS over PU sealants. They are easier to work with and the unused portion doesn't go off in the tube as quickly. PS also doesn't harden with age. R&R'd the solar system on our roof after 30 years here in Kona. The LifeCaulk was still sealed perfectly and pliable after all those years in the tropics.

Polyurethane 5200 is an adhesive and can be a major pain to remove parts bedded in it. You can get not so adhesive PU sealants (3m 4200) if you think you might want to remover the gallows some day. FWIW, hear there is a solvent that makes removing 5200 bedded stuff easier.

Dolfinite is a good sealant for wood to wood. I've not had good luck when bedding metal to wood. It's just not very good at sticking to things and does harden with age. Torqueing of the part in normal use seems to develop leaks. Not being a big 'newer is better' proponent, I still can't help to mention that Dolfinite is ancient technology. Think Nelson used it to repair his wooden ships after the Battle of the Nile.
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Old 05-12-2008, 14:36   #8
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Thanks for that! Pretty much confirms what I was thinking. Boatlife it is.
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Old 05-12-2008, 18:19   #9
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I think I would use butyl rubber tape, and some sealer on the screws.
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Old 05-12-2008, 20:06   #10
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Butyl tape for me...

No question it's butyl tape for me on wood. It never loses elasticity and has far more elongation before failure than either Polysulfide or Polyurethane..

Here's a 30 year old cleat bedded with butyl tape and the resulting bone dry balsa..

Dolfinite would be my second choice, then 3M 101 polysulfide, then BoatLife polysulfide, then Sikaflex 291 polyurethane..
29 year old Streeeeeetch!:

No leaks after 29 years:
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Old 06-12-2008, 06:48   #11
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Thanks forum

Acoustic:

Funny I was just going to your website to find this URL to share here. I want to take this opportunity to thanks you for a most excellent website. Really dude, I mean you rock! I a currently reattaching my entire deck fitting myself, and am using the methods you show on you site......funny though, my work just does not look as clean and perfect as yours. Every time I get a hole that is a little sloppy or a chip in the paint (I am drilling back up from underneath the deck as it was all fiber glassed over)...well I think..........it always looks easier on TV or in a magazine. Don't mean to steal the thread here just a thanks.

Some excellent stuff here

Sealing Deck Penetrations to Prevent Core Rot Photo Gallery by Maine Sailing at pbase.com








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Originally Posted by Acoustic View Post
No question it's butyl tape for me on wood. It never loses elasticity and has far more elongation before failure than either Polysulfide or Polyurethane..

Here's a 30 year old cleat bedded with butyl tape and the resulting bone dry balsa..

Dolfinite would be my second choice, then 3M 101 polysulfide, then BoatLife polysulfide, then Sikaflex 291 polyurethane..
29 year old Streeeeeetch!:

No leaks after 29 years:
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