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Old 03-05-2014, 15:57   #16
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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Originally Posted by Aloha_float View Post
I know that this will fall on deaf ears however....

Fuel polishing is only a mechanical way of "controlling" the microbial problem in fuel but will not eliminate it. The biofilm will remain and leaves the tank prone to failure firm microbially influenced corrosion. I am not suggesting that mechanical polishing is a waste but it won't "fix" the problem.

Fuel Right additive is designed to scrub the biofilm away and dissolve the binding agents that hold it all together. It will also leave behind a microscopic corrosion coating protecting steel tanks, lines, pumps from corrosion. Fuel Right will also prevent the biofilm from forming again. Together with your polishing system, you will have the cleanest fuel in the marina.

I have used it to remove the crap from my 30 year old tank and it works exceptionally well. I have a racor FG500 and it dumped all this crap into my racor which I subsequently cleaned out ...twice..before I was in the "clear"

My filters now last longer and my engine runs smoother and is easier to start as a result of the improved fuel quality.
Thanks Aloha, your suggestion about fuel right on another post I picked up on and I've been in touch with the Australian supplier in WA and ordered a small amount to give it a go.

I'm going to give my tank a thorough cleaning out first though, as I can do that. My boat is about to be slipped for the winter here, so it's a good time to remove the half tank of fuel left, then I'll karcher the inside and pump out the remains for disposal. Then I'll add Fuel Right when I add the diesel again.
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Old 03-05-2014, 20:11   #17
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

I would treat before I remove the fuel - let it sit. When you remove fuel and wash, it will already have scrubbed the walls submerged in treated fuel. You will get more out of the tank this way.
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Old 03-05-2014, 21:41   #18
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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Originally Posted by Aloha_float View Post
I would treat before I remove the fuel - let it sit. When you remove fuel and wash, it will already have scrubbed the walls submerged in treated fuel. You will get more out of the tank this way.
Ok. I will do that. Cheers.
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Old 04-05-2014, 00:30   #19
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

Just on another slightly different topic. I've ordered a racor 500 fuel filter. What's the difference between the filter with the steel bowl and without? Racor Parker web site is appalling.
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Old 04-05-2014, 00:49   #20
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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Originally Posted by tedsherrin View Post
Just on another slightly different topic. I've ordered a racor 500 fuel filter. What's the difference between the filter with the steel bowl and without? Racor Parker web site is appalling.
The bowl is a heat shield that protects the filterís clear, plastic bowl from flames for the prescribed 2-1/2 minutes." None of the Racor filters with clear plastic bowls and without heat shields meet the CFR's for installation in an engine room or fuel tank compartment.

Read this Primary Fuel Filters | PassageMaker
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:26   #21
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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Originally Posted by Aloha_float View Post
I would treat before I remove the fuel - let it sit. When you remove fuel and wash, it will already have scrubbed the walls submerged in treated fuel. You will get more out of the tank this way.
If you scrub with paper towel, the bio-film will be very thin so not a problem; however, the biocide is toxic. I would treat after cleaning. A sterilization dose is twice the concentration of the amount normally used with each refill.
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Old 04-05-2014, 01:58   #22
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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Originally Posted by delmarrey View Post
The bowl is a heat shield that protects the filterís clear, plastic bowl from flames for the prescribed 2-1/2 minutes." None of the Racor filters with clear plastic bowls and without heat shields meet the CFR's for installation in an engine room or fuel tank compartment.

Read this Primary Fuel Filters | PassageMaker
Very interesting reading. Thanks for that. I presume the red fuel lines I use are fire retardant for that period of time too. Would the same 2 1/2 minutes apply under whatever rules apply in Australia?
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Old 04-05-2014, 02:48   #23
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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Originally Posted by tedsherrin View Post
Very interesting reading. Thanks for that. I presume the red fuel lines I use are fire retardant for that period of time too. Would the same 2 1/2 minutes apply under whatever rules apply in Australia?
Not sure of the make of your red fuel lines, but if it's Parker it could be there 421FS Industry standard fire suppression hydraulic hose. The Parker fuel hose for marine applications is 221FR and is blue.

Obviously FS = Fire Suppression and FR = Fire Resistant.....
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Old 04-05-2014, 03:01   #24
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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Not sure of the make of your red fuel lines, but if it's Parker it could be there 421FS Industry standard fire suppression hydraulic hose. The Parker fuel hose for marine applications is 221FR and is blue.

Obviously FS = Fire Suppression and FR = Fire Resistant.....
I don't know of the 'brand', but I used the dearer quality that meets survey requirements in our state. Not that I'm planning on getting it surveyed, just that for a $1 a meter more I'd rather have the best quality.
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Old 04-05-2014, 06:49   #25
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

I know for Racors, the pump has to be placed after the filter. Racor says the filter seals could blow out from the fuel pressure if the pump is before.
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Old 05-05-2014, 11:21   #26
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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I know for Racors, the pump has to be placed after the filter. Racor says the filter seals could blow out from the fuel pressure if the pump is before.
I have a common rail computer controlled diesel injection system where the pressure is 50 PSI. The electronically operated injectors give a boost above 5000 PSI. Common rail systems that do not boost run about 20,000 PSI. Yes that would blow out the gaskets; however, for a 12 volt diesel pump that just moves diesel between tanks like for polishing work has only 4-6 PSI.
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Old 05-05-2014, 15:53   #27
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

The instructions in my 12v pump recommended after the filter simply to protect it from contaminent in the fuel. They recommend between the engine filter and secondary filter. But for a fuel polishing unit I can't see it making any critical matter, so I'll keep it after anyway.
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Old 05-05-2014, 16:03   #28
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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I'm building a small day-tank and a diesel polishing system for my Nonsuch 30 ( A Kiwi Nonsuch 30 Ultra: Fuel system ) and I have a minor problem.



Because this project (like everything) is being done on a shoe-string budget, I ended up with a filter/seperator and a pump that I may not have chosen otherwise, but I want to make them work.

I have a CAV-type filter with 7 micron element rated to 10-15gph, and a 12v lift pump rated to 30gph. The filter is on the suction side of the pump, but will this difference in potential flow rate cause problems? Will the pump strain and fail early...or does it care? I'm really looking for a mechanic to weigh-in here.

The lines to the filter and pump are 3/8", the return line is 1/4" (out of necessity)

John
It will work just fine, but I would pump the output in bigger pipe then the input

Im not sure what you are really achieving here, the volume transported and the lack of any tank agitation, will mean your just polishing the good fuel, not the crap in the bottom.


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Old 05-05-2014, 16:35   #29
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

"I'm not sure what you are really achieving here, the volume transported and the lack of any tank agitation, will mean your just polishing the good fuel, not the crap in the bottom."

Drive into a short period 2 meter head sea for a couple of hours with half full tanks. That will give you plenty of agitation. There is a reason most people have filter issues when it is less than mill pond smooth.
I'm trying to work up a system that can work as a pre-filter while underway as well as a polishing system when not running the engines.
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Old 05-05-2014, 16:56   #30
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Re: DIY Diesel Polishing

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"I'm not sure what you are really achieving here, the volume transported and the lack of any tank agitation, will mean your just polishing the good fuel, not the crap in the bottom."

Drive into a short period 2 meter head sea for a couple of hours with half full tanks. That will give you plenty of agitation. There is a reason most people have filter issues when it is less than mill pond smooth.
I'm trying to work up a system that can work as a pre-filter while underway as well as a polishing system when not running the engines.
Yes, I agree. This is what happened to me on a recent Easter trip. I had no problems the first day on a trip into Bass Strait to Waterhouse Island. But the next day I went to cross Banks Strait, which is part of Bass Strait to Flinders Island and had a two meter slop. I had to use the engine to return due to an overly sick crew member and after just a few hours my engine died of contaminated fuel. I had used my spare filters so had to limp into the nearest harbour. My fuel was a rusty red colour.

I'm going with this system as well, and I'm going to be using Fuel Right too.
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