Deck Soft Spots Repair

[KenH]

So, I plan on drilling the holes and using epoxy to inject in the deck.

What have you used or what type brand do you think is the best?

I would like to use the two part that comes in a double tube for a gun so I can get the pressure to force it in there more but, I am open to options if something else might work better.

Thanks for you help and ideas in advance..

Ken

[KenH]

Originally Posted by KenH

So, I plan on drilling the holes and using epoxy to inject in the deck.

What have you used or what type brand do you think is the best?

I would like to use the two part that comes in a double tube for a gun so I can get the pressure to force it in there more but, I am open to options if something else might work better.

Thanks for you help and ideas in advance..

Ken

anyone???? lol

[billknny]

Ken,

Not really enough information to comment...

Is there water in there? i
s it a cored deck? Balsa? Foam?
How big are the "spots" how extensive?
Where did the water come from?
How big is the boat?

[KenH]

Originally Posted by billknny

Ken,

Not really enough information to comment...

Is there water in there? i
s it a cored deck? Balsa? Foam?
How big are the "spots" how extensive?
Where did the water come from?
How big is the boat?

42' Sailboat and it's two sections about a sq. 1' each. Glass then wood core.
it's just the age '76, over time the deck has the hair line cracks and has seeped in. Of course when it rains good it get's more but, only then, other wise when it's raining a little it's not a big problem.
I just want to fix it so it doesn't get worse.

[Mike OReilly]

I have never done what you are planning, although I have read and thought about trying it myself. But if I interpret your post correctly, I think the epoxy you are planning to use is not nearly as viscous enough to do the job. You need something a lot thinner

Seems to me there are products on the market specifically designed for this kind of application. Can’t think of them off hand, but my sense is you’ll need something other than those simple squeeze tube epoxy things.

[KenH]

Originally Posted by Mike OReilly

I have never done what you are planning, although I have read and thought about trying it myself. But if I interpret your post correctly, I think the epoxy you are planning to use is not nearly as viscous enough to do the job. You need something a lot thinner

Seems to me there are products on the market specifically designed for this kind of application. Can’t think of them off hand, but my sense is you’ll need something other than those simple squeeze tube epoxy things.

Thanks Mike,
the epoxy I am leaning to is pretty stiff. Low viscous. but, comes in a double tube where the pressure will come from the double tube gun that mixes it.
It's a Lords product. I just would like to see what others have used.

[billknny]

Here is the problem...

You say "wood" core, I assume you mean plywood. The problem with plywood is that it wicks water horizontally quite quickly. It is very likely the damage extends over a much wider area than it appears. The soft spots are where the wood has rotten to dirt.

Those are pretty large areas, and the right way to fix it is to cut the top layer off, remove and replace the rotten plywood, and then reglass the top in place. Without removing the wet and rotten wood you really can't "stop it from getting worse".

[Lepke]

You need to dry the core first. Epoxy doesn't stick to wet wood well and doesn't penetrate at all. The twin tube epoxy I've seen don't mix the epoxy well. Forcing epoxy into the core area is a pipe dream. Unless there's a clear path for displaced air, the epoxy will just stop flowing out of your tubes.
I don't recommend, but seen people use a 4" hole saw and cut 1 or more holes, saving the center. After the core is dry, epoxy the center back in while filling the cut and drill holes. You can't dry the core without getting a lot of air flow. Sealing in the water will just get wet rot in your core.
I'd use West System with their 404 high density filler. The filler adds to the bonding, I've never had a deck repair fail when using it.

[KenH]

Originally Posted by billknny

Here is the problem...

You say "wood" core, I assume you mean plywood. The problem with plywood is that it wicks water horizontally quite quickly. It is very likely the damage extends over a much wider area than it appears. The soft spots are where the wood has rotten to dirt.

Those are pretty large areas, and the right way to fix it is to cut the top layer off, remove and replace the rotten plywood, and then reglass the top in place. Without removing the wet and rotten wood you really can't "stop it from getting worse".

Yes I know.. I am hoping to stop it before it gets to far. It's not as bad as it sounds or I hope not..lol
It's more of the crackle sound when I step on the two areas. If I nip in the bud before it gets worse I was hoping to not have to re-glass the area.

[Nicholson58]

Check my photos and previous posts on this. This has been worked over many times.

I repair from the inside. I prefer US Composites 635 THIN epoxy resin with 3M microballoon filler. You must remove wet core. Shooting resin into wet balsa is a total waste. Wet balsa will never dry out trapped in your deck. I remove 3 inch holes with a hole saw, remove wet balsa, repair and then pump in epoxy-syntactic foam mix.

[KenH]

Originally Posted by Nicholson58

Check my photos and previous posts on this. This has been worked over many times.

I repair from the inside. I prefer US Composites 635 THIN epoxy resin with 3M microballoon filler. You must remove wet core. Shooting resin into wet balsa is a total waste. Wet balsa will never dry out trapped in your deck. I remove 3 inch holes with a hole saw, remove wet balsa, repair and then pump in epoxy-syntactic foam mix.

Thank you for your input..