Deck Resurfacing Project

[natew]

Update for January.

I was off for the last two weeks of December so I busted my butt on this project. Finished off the delamination around the hatch pictured above and then found two more areas of delamination, both set me back by about 3-4 days on doing the rest. But I am finally done with paint removal, fairing, sanding, and even the application of primer. I'm working on perfecting my painting techniques before the application of the final coat.

Oh and I also set myself back another week or so by purchasing two new hatches to replace the old style fiberglass hatches.

Here's some pictures, the first picture is where I stand today after having applied my first coat of finish paint to the forward most deck section and the two amas. The other three are of the repairs to the other two delaminated sections of fiberglass

[cburger]

Originally Posted by natew

Update for January.

I was off for the last two weeks of December so I busted my butt on this project. Finished off the delamination around the hatch pictured above and then found two more areas of delamination, both set me back by about 3-4 days on doing the rest. But I am finally done with paint removal, fairing, sanding, and even the application of primer. I'm working on perfecting my painting techniques before the application of the final coat.

Oh and I also set myself back another week or so by purchasing two new hatches to replace the old style fiberglass hatches.

Here's some pictures, the first picture is where I stand today after having applied my first coat of finish paint to the forward most deck section and the two amas. The other three are of the repairs to the other two delaminated sections of fiberglass

Will be well worth the effort when finished.

[Sailorman Ed]

Nate - keep it up. Enjoying your progress. I have a couple soft spots to investigate and repair come spring.
Ed

[marlinmike]

Great job, the value of the boat just went way up, congrat's!

[natew]

Well well.. Here we are, mid february. The rain here in socal has interrupted me for quite a while but I am FINALLY rolling on the last coat of paint.

After much trial and error I've managed to get a final glossy finish out of my two part LPU. The real trick seemed to be adding the accelerator, with the colder weather this winter the paint just was not setting up before the night moisture was setting in. Two drops of this miracle accelerator has made all the difference.

As far as some info on painting and application, i've found the 6" hotdog size ultra smooth rollers to be the best, they contour to any imperfections in the deck, they don't hold a large amount of paint and the surface comes out pretty darn smooth. I've even skipped the tipping step and while that would probably give a slightly nicer finish I've come to the conclusion that I'm perfectly happy with the rolled on finish i'm getting and that the tipping process just took too much time and introduced all kinds of new problems. And, honestly, I don't think I was really good at it anyways. Not to mention I'd say about 80% of the deck is going to be covered with non-skid anyways so what's the point in putting in the extra effort to make it "perfect".

I'll update with some pictures when I have a chance.

[natew]

A quick picture I took from about last week.

That center hatch there under the boom is still not fitted. The hole unfortunately is a bit too small, now i'm stuck with cutting out a small section that I just painted to make it fit properly. UGH!

I've been sealing all of the hatches and other items with Life Caulk.. After spending days reading to try and determine what is the "best" sealant I've settled on that for a number of reasons. First, it is readily available, it is somewhat reasonably priced, it cleans up fairly easily both before and after curing, it is really easy to use and apply, and well it does what it is supposed to do. It may not last the longest, it may not be the toughest stuff out there but I think i'll be happy when I am re-bedding everything in 5-10 years anyway that I am not dealing with a product that takes forever to clean up.

Another note... Don't ever ever ever ever use silicone. Every single hatch was previously put on with silicone, I spent about a total of 40-60 hours in my garage cleaning that off of all of those hatches. Silicone is tenacious, is not removed by anything and does not seal to anything (even itself)! Seriously, if you have a tube of silicone just throw it in the trash, if you need help throwing it in the trash let me know i'll gladly come by and do it for you just to save someone in the future a lot of grief.

[Cheechako]

yeah, silicone...ughhh! Life Caulk is good.

[goboatingnow]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

yeah, silicone...ughhh! Life Caulk is good.

Silanes even better.

Dave

[natew]

Hardware mostly back on, waiting on the delivery of new lifelines.

Thought I would provide some insight into the total costs and amount of work.

Keep in mind that only the forward deck is done, something like 600sqft of deck area and that the cabin still needs to be done as well as a small walkway that goes around the stern. Would estimate that the the total labor for that will be somewhere around 60-80 hours. Also need to apply the non-skid but I already have all the materials so there really won't be any additional cost.


Materials Breakdown:
Epoxy Barrier Coat (6 Gallons) $650
2 Part LPU (4 Gallons) - $480
Non-Skid Additive (2lbs) - $40
West System Epoxy (4 Gallons) - $600
6Oz Fiberglass Cloth (4 Yards) - $60
Peel Ply (10 Yards) - $100
Microballons /Silica Filler (2 Large Containers) - $60
Small Mixing Containers (50) - $55
Large Mixing Containers (12) - $25
Sanpaper 40 Grit (250 Discs) - $100
Sanpaper 80 Grit (100 Discs) - $40
Sanpaper 220 Grit (150 Discs) - $60
Sanpaper 320 Grit (100 Discs) - $40
Wood Paint Stirrers (100's) - FREE!!
2" Chip Brishes (100) - $25
6" Hotdog Foam Rollers (24) - $40
Misc. Paint Brushes (10) - $80
Boat Life Life Caulk Tubes (6) - $150
Nitrile Gloves (150) - $24
Masking Tape (10 Rolls) - $80
Bags for Shop Vac (8) - $40
Misc. Replacement Screws and parts - $250

Total Materials: $3039

Addons Materials:
24x24 Hatches for Bow (2 New) - $650
19x20 Replacement Hatches (2 Used) - $400
New 3/8" Turnbuckles for Stays (6) - $600
New 3/8" Turnbuckle for Forestay (6) - $100
New Lifeline Hardware - $350
New Lifeline Wire - $200


Time investment:
Paint Removal and Prep - Approx 150 Hours
Fiberglass repair - Approx 25 Hours
Painting Primer/Epoxy - Approx 8 Hours
Fairing/Sanding - Approx 40 Hours
Final Application of Paint w/ Sanding Between Coats- Approx 30 Hours
Estimated Application of Non-Skid - Approx 8 Hours
Polishing and cleaning of all removed hardware - 100 Hours
Reinstallation of all hardware - 12 Hours

Tool costs I did not track, some I bought new, some I already had, some I had to replace along the way. I would estimate if you were to purchase all tools required new it would be somewhere around $1500.

So, all told we are at about $5339 into the project and about 373 Hours of labor. The remainer should be about 60 hours of work and minimal additional cost since I have already accounted for those materials above.

[natew]

So I thought I would put off the stern of the boat for a couple of months but the wife managed to talk me into it.. So here we are starting from the beginning again.

To be perfectly honest this section was by far the worst off paint wise, you'll see pictures of the paint cracking and flaking and even mold growing on top of the dirt that has been trapped inside the chips and cracks.

I managed to scrape the whole stern walkway off in about 2.5 hours with no paint remover, no sanding, just a $6 floor scraper from harbor freight and a standard size razor blade/scraper. I am honestly not totally sure what puts the paint in that state but it is clear that it was again failing from the fiberglass up. Upon close inspection of the fiberglass there really is not a lot of damage and 99% of those cracks are not defects in the fiberglass and infact I am fairly certain that the damage that there is in the fiberglass is not from below but rather from being exposed directly to sun, dirt, and salt for so long. Basically where the paint has failed the fiberglass has been slowly eroded away by the elements from the top down.

[Cheechako]

Well, hopefully you'll be done soon and can do some sailing before you loose enthusiasm! Lookin great so far...

[natew]

Bling Bling.

After some delam repair, two coats of barrier and two coats of paint this is what we get.

No-non skid but that will be done later. Will also be repainting the rest of the cabin there at a later time. It does not look as white or bright as the new paint but it is certainly not is as bad of shape as the rest was. Tomorrow we reinstall all the hardware on this stern section, finish up installing the lifelines and then sunday looks like a great day for a sail.

[Greenhand]

If we end up with the Tayana 37 we have bid on we will be doing this project, so we really appreciate your play by play.

We will be one up, in that the previous owner has already stripped the paint.

[stevelf]

WOW! You will laugh, or cry, when you see the 37' tri I just bought, and the deck work that needs to be done. I'm in love with the boat, so I am just happy to get-'er-done... Thanks so much for this thread. I am inspired by how my boat will look in the end...I'm still not quite sure how to begin, as I have been strongly warned about pressure-washing these older wooden boats, for fear of delaminating them.... perhaps straight into RO sanding.... Good job !

[natew]

Wow, glad I am not the only one with a project like this.

Greenhand - You really have the hard part done if the paint is already stripped. Though I wouldn't underestimate the amount of time you would still have left sanding, fairing, and repairing any delamination but it sounds like it can go pretty quick. Fix any major problems, roll on a primer coat and sand smooth and then apply your final paint coats. Let me know if you need any tips or advise, there's so many subtle things that I learned that I probably didn't write about.

stevelf - I never wrote about my experience pressure washing but that was my first attempt at removing the paint. And to be perfectly honest it didn't do anything at all. At my highest setting (2000 PSI) About the only paint that got removed was paint which I could have chipped off by hand and only the top layers for the most part. I really doubt you would delaminate any of the fiberglass and if the fiberglass delaminates under the power of a pressure washer you probably wanted to refiberglass it anyways. I would suggest you power wash that first, but only to remove dirt, mold and other organic growth and any paint that comes with it as that stuff will really gum up your sandpaper quick. Then i'd head off into the sanding phase, grab the 40 grit sandpaper and have at it. Your project looks about the same size as mine so I would say your time estimates and costs will run about the same. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions! Morrow may is a nice area and a nice drive, could even be persuaded into driving put there on a weekend if you need some advice or some hands on help for a couple hours.