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Old 03-06-2014, 21:46   #76
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Re: Deck Core Soft Spot? -a Low Budget Amateur Repair

The picture reminded me of Awlgripping the boat in Thailand, where the crew had to take a day off to attend the funeral of their shooter who died of liver cancer at 30. At least the Thai shooters wore a dust mask (the assistant shooter wrapped a t-shirt around his head).
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Old 25-06-2014, 00:16   #77
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Re: Deck Core Soft Spot? -a Low Budget Amateur Repair

Alternate method is to bed the striated foam core (same design as the base core squares, except completely non absorbent foam)with structural fiberglass putty - buy both products at any industrial fiberglass supplier - then fill the foam core indents with fiberglass and glue the old top part back on. The structural putty has long FG hair mixed in with the resin paste and mixes up very nicely! If it's anything larger than a small patch, it's structurally better to lay new mat and roving as the top skin, overlapping the good parts of the deck a few inches.

Also leave the squares attached to the FG mesh cloth - it's engineered to provide optimal support with the existing slot widths cut into the coring. That's why it's made that way!

epoxy is great stuff, but I don't use epoxy for FG repairs because it is more expensive compared to glass resin, does not saturate mat or roving well, and once epoxy is down, you can't mate future repairs with glass. So your stuck with epoxy work forever. Plus any perceived strength advantage is unnecessary overkill. Marine grade FG resin is perfectly suitable and compatible with the rest of your FG boat.
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Old 25-06-2014, 00:43   #78
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Re: Deck Core Soft Spot? -a Low Budget Amateur Repair

Epoxy makes stronger secondary bonds.
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Old 25-06-2014, 05:52   #79
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Re: Deck Core Soft Spot? -a Low Budget Amateur Repair

A quick thought about vacuum bagging that comes to mind that might be worth mentioning. Air pressure is pushing down all around us all the time, you wouldn't notice unless you were suddenly out in space and your eyes would bug out all Total Recall-style.

Point being, because air is pushing down on us from all around all the time, a vacuum bag does not have to be a "bag" (as in an envelope) but can still function to provide vacuum clamping pressure if it is just a plastic sheet against a rigid surface that is sealed all away around the perimeter.

Like for example you want to clamp down your non-skin pattern to the deck - wet out your stuff, lay down your mold, then bleeder cloth, then plastic sheet extending beyond the work area with butyl tape around the perimeter against the deck, evacuate, then wait for cure. Done.

I have done it with success. Requires a sufficiently rigid surface but doesn't have to be that stiff if you are working with resin and glass.

Trying to clamp a badly warped 2x4, maybe not so much, but wet resin not a problem as it offers no resistance. Air pressure is the same on both sides of your rigid surface so doesn't have to be that stiff to hold its shape.
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Old 25-06-2014, 07:50   #80
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Re: Deck Core Soft Spot? -a Low Budget Amateur Repair

Quote:
Originally Posted by Delancey View Post
A quick thought about vacuum bagging that comes to mind that might be worth mentioning. Air pressure is pushing down all around us all the time, you wouldn't notice unless you were suddenly out in space and your eyes would bug out all Total Recall-style.

Point being, because air is pushing down on us from all around all the time, a vacuum bag does not have to be a "bag" (as in an envelope) but can still function to provide vacuum clamping pressure if it is just a plastic sheet against a rigid surface that is sealed all away around the perimeter.

Like for example you want to clamp down your non-skin pattern to the deck - wet out your stuff, lay down your mold, then bleeder cloth, then plastic sheet extending beyond the work area with butyl tape around the perimeter against the deck, evacuate, then wait for cure. Done.

I have done it with success. Requires a sufficiently rigid surface but doesn't have to be that stiff if you are working with resin and glass.

Trying to clamp a badly warped 2x4, maybe not so much, but wet resin not a problem as it offers no resistance. Air pressure is the same on both sides of your rigid surface so doesn't have to be that stiff to hold its shape.


??

99% of bagging is done this way. It's very rare that you ever make an envelope, or what we call a "taco bag".
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Old 25-06-2014, 08:01   #81
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Re: Deck Core Soft Spot? -a Low Budget Amateur Repair

I would wonder that 99% of the vacuum bagging that takes place in the whole world is actually done in a bag, for example typical millwork and small composite parts.

My comment was coming from the perspective of the rest world without bothering to consider that non-envelope bagging is actually probably common with boat building and aircraft, which is probably where I learned if from now that I think of it. So, my bad.

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Old 25-06-2014, 08:08   #82
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So, my bad.

Cheers[/QUOTE]

No not bad. Very informative. not all of us are familiar with how to vacuum bag. The name kind of implies that it should be in a bag! Don't you put some kind of wax paper down first?
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Old 25-06-2014, 19:14   #83
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Re: Deck Core Soft Spot? -a Low Budget Amateur Repair

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Originally Posted by Glenn.Brooks View Post
Alternate method is to bed the striated foam core (same design as the base core squares, except completely non absorbent foam)

epoxy is great stuff, but I don't use epoxy for FG repairs because it is more expensive compared to glass resin, does not saturate mat or roving well, and once epoxy is down, you can't mate future repairs with glass. So your stuck with epoxy work forever. Plus any perceived strength advantage is unnecessary overkill. Marine grade FG resin is perfectly suitable and compatible with the rest of your FG boat.
All foam and balsa is permeable. Its only a question of time.

Use US Composite 635 THIN resin (epoxy). It is made to wet-out and its no blush, soap & water clean up, way less expensive than We$t. I use nothing else any more. Fillers - 3M microballoons. This is waterproof forever.
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