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Old 06-06-2010, 23:12   #1
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Dealing with the Deck After the Teak Comes Off !

Hi, looks like we will be held up in Japan for a year, so have decided to finally tackle the task of ripping off the old teak decking. Not sure of the condition of the glass deck beneath, but it has had two teak decks applied by previous owners and there are certainly leaks I assume caused by screws and whatnot.

Does anyone know of a good product for coating such decks after they have been sealed and sanded? I am not thinking of artificial teak, etc. but maybe some sort of non-skid material applied in liquid form.

Not going to rip it off until I know what I'm up against and what I might have to order, maybe from abroad.

Any suggestions welcome.

Thanks in advance.
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Old 06-06-2010, 23:41   #2
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BINGO!

I am in the same situation, ie Teak decks, old ,leaking in need of replacement,so I will follow this thread with interest. Could I add a question of my own? We are going to take up the teak decks ourselves so any helpful hints regarding removal would be appreciated.

By the way we have an Island Gypsy 36' Hong Kong built, circa 1981.
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Old 07-06-2010, 17:48   #3
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Question Dealing with Teak Decks, Have to replace???

We will also be following the same thread, as we have leaking teak decks, and definitely a soggy core in spots. Any information on pulling up the deck and replacing with fiberglass will be appreciated.
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Old 07-06-2010, 17:56   #4
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In a professional mag I get, Professional Boat Builder, I just read a piece on a company that makes complete teak replacement decks, won't leak and last a long time. You remove the old, prepare the surface. You then make a template and they make the deck and ship it to you for install. The teak is mounted on a scrim whcih you install. No joints, screws, nails, etc. It was fairly expensive, but seemed like a reasonably permanent solution that maintained the beauty if a teak deck. If anyone is interested, I can look up the article and put a cite to it here.
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Old 07-06-2010, 18:05   #5
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Old 07-06-2010, 18:35   #6
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If Charlie says to use Sanitred that is what I would do. He knows his s^#&.
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Old 07-06-2010, 18:44   #7
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Hello Jaycall, if you can find that article I would be interested to have a look at it.

Has anyone used ' Sanitred' on their boat? I have not come across it, they certainly make some pretty big caims for the product.
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Old 07-06-2010, 18:47   #8
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Go to the Wooden Boat Forum and do a search on Sanitred. Some folks up there used it to good effect. That was the deciding factor for me. That and a test.

I did a search on teak decking recently for a restoration. See this site: Teak Deck Company
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Old 07-06-2010, 20:40   #9
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Thanks for the info, I am following it up
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Old 07-06-2010, 21:25   #10
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Another company is: TEAKDECKING SYSTEMS
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Old 07-06-2010, 21:36   #11
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Remove the screws first. If you bugger the slots on some don't worry. Sometimes on an old deck once the screws are out the decking will come up fairly easily. Some times not. If it is difficult set a circular saw to just barely not cut all the way through the teak and cut across the planks every 10-20". Then go to town with flat pry bars and big chisels. We have several large slicks that work very well. On decks where the adhesive is still really well bonded we use an electric chipping hammer with a 3" wide chisel .This is tedious as the planks come up like toothpicks. Any screws remaining can be removed with vise grips.It is important to fill all screw holes with epoxy before they are contaminated with rain or dew. Only open up what you can deal with that day.
Next repair any divots and/or
delaminations
with
thickened
epoxy. Sometimes you will find that the deck is wet and will require additional work. Assuming that the deck is dry then we apply a layer of 1 1/2 oz csm to assure a complete seal and a smooth surface. Next we will apply an epoxy fairing compound and sand and sand and sand until it is smooth and fair. We then will apply 3 coats of Awl grip 545 primer and then sand this smooth. We then will fill any remaining imperfections and apply 1 more coat of primer. Then we apply 2 coats of topcoat to the deck.We use Awlcraft 2000 paint. After this we will tape off the parts of the deck that we want to remain glossy and apply more paint with a nonskid additive. We prefer to spray paint but
frequently
are in a boatyard where this is not permitted or practical. We then roll and tip. The nonskid we roll only. You must keep the nonskid paint mixed well all the time or the nonskid additive will settle and you will see roller tracks. It takes some skill but you can obtain results equally as good as spraying this way. There you go,
nuthin
to it but to do it. Don't forget your
kneepads
. David
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Old 07-06-2010, 22:51   #12
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Sanitread

2 years ago, I took off all the deck coating on Star Gazer and applied Sanitread.

Being a steel boat, the idea was to completely seal the steel in a flexible coating that could stand the heat expansion of the tropics.

It adheres very well to the steel so I am protected, but getting a decent finish is a real challenge.

In hindsight it was a mistake because the product cured too quickly in the heat so we were forced to do in stages causing boarder lines.

But most importantly, the topcoat remained porous, stained easily and turned moldy after a few months in the rainy season.

When I contacted Sanitread about the mold they said I could paint over it, which I tried with a high build type of bilge epoxy.

It is not lasting and is peeling off when the decks get scrubbed because Sanitread is a flexible rubbery compound.

I can now understand why Sanitead in their literature are warning clients not to use bleach, because everyone is having mold problems and trying to bleach it.

Here are a few photos of the huge job we did and the mold problem.

Does anyone out there have a paint solution as to the best topcoat over Sanitread that will adhere to a flexible base and not go moldy?
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Old 07-06-2010, 23:43   #13
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Shrimp-Caelestis had it right-the article was in the June issue of Power and Motoryacht-the company was Teak Decking Systems.
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:22   #14
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You will find the "teak" replacement stuff pretty spendy and in many cases the dealer will insist on doing the install which makes it even more so - take a look at Kiwi Grip www.kiwigrip.com. A thread back in late 2009 from a guy with a cat in the Med had info on this stuff and it seems good. We used TBS in some places on the deck of our cat but they replaced the original stuff FOC after it badly discoloured after a year or so, that original light grey colour now dis-continued. The replacement stuf seems OK after six months..............................
Cheers
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Old 08-06-2010, 03:48   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tyche View Post
We will also be following the same thread, as we have leaking teak decks, and definitely a soggy core in spots. Any information on pulling up the deck and replacing with fiberglass will be appreciated.
Tyche,
If you haven't already joined, the Force 50 and Formosa 51 Owners Association has heaps of information that would be useful to you. Many of the members have redone their decks already and they are extremely helpful to other Formosa 51 owners.
www.force50.org

Vic
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