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Old 30-05-2013, 14:39   #1
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Quebec, Canada
Boat: Sampson C-Breeze
Posts: 5
Damage Assessment FC Hull

This message is for all you ferro owners or builders out there that have any experience with hull repairs. We have the chance to take on a huge project of reconditioning an abandoned Sampson C-Breeze. I have read everything I can get my hands on so far. I am waiting for 'Ferro-cement Boats' .by Colin Brookes, to arrive by mail. And I have tried writing it's author directly via his forum, without answer.
The wooden pilot house is rotted through and the interior is waterlogged. We're looking at a total rebuild on the inside. The hull and deck have several superficial repairs to make before painting, which really don't seem worrisome. But there is one area at the back edge of the keel behind the rudder which is very rusted. We have a couple of photos and need to know how one would go about repairing this or if such damage in such a location is worth the effort. We have been unable to find a professional surveyor or builder with ferro experience within 1000 miles, so the work will have to be done by us.
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Old 03-07-2013, 05:24   #2
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Re: Damage Assessment FC hull

I have followed the method in the ferro cement boats book for repairs with great success. Try to get sr cement , the water curing is very important or the repair will crack. Ferro is not expensive to repair, but time consuming

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Old 03-07-2013, 05:54   #3
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Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
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Re: Damage Assessment FC hull

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, gregzara.
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"

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Old 11-07-2013, 07:42   #4
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Location: Central California
Boat: Samson C Mist 32
Posts: 528
Re: Damage Assessment FC Hull

I have done some minor repairs to my Samson C-Mist 32 hull. I used a small air hammer to chip away the plaster and rusted armature. With eye and ear protection it was pretty painless, and it was easy to control. Dig away all of the rusty stuff until you're seeing only clean steel and clean mortar. Expose enough clean steel so you can wire in your new steel rod and mesh. I then re-plastered with epoxy mortar as described by
Colin Brookes. To keep the epoxy in place while curing I used some polyethylene film, a bit of carpet, and a small piece of plywood propped against it. I'll PM photos.
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