Cutlass Bearing Replacement

[Gundy]

I have just removed the Water Lubricated Cutlass Bearing with Phenolic Shell from my steel hulled boat and was wondering if there was a special sealant, glue or coating that should go over the bare metal in the steel housing that the bearing fits back into. There doesn't appear to be any in there at present and there are no signs of corrosion. Would anyone know what the normal procedure is?

[osirissail]

Normally any cutlass bearing has an almost zero tolerance fit - that is, it won't just slide in and out, it needs to be forced into position. Additionally there are normally setscrews in the shaft log that provide an additional way to "lock" the cutlass bearing in place.
- - The use of grease or lubricants is not recommended although a thorough and complete cleaning of the inside of the shaft log tube is very important. Any lubricant might allow the cutlass bearing to rotate inside the shaft log defeating the purpose of the cutlass bearing.

[Hudson Force]

The boatyard I frequent is known to leave the cutlass bearings in a freezer for a few hours before insertion. I know this doesn't address the steel surface question of which I have no knowledge.

[GordMay]

+1 on both posts #2 & #3.

[Kapena]

The metal shelled bearings are a tight fit, freezing helps...This post is about the phenolic shell bearing. It is a much easier fit and freezing has no effect.

I used 5200 and the allen screws (2) and had no problems.

[Hudson Force]

Originally Posted by Kapena

.............I used 5200 and the allen screws (2) and had no problems.

I enjoy many good applications of 5200, but in this case I would be concerned with my ability to remove an old cutlass bearing that was imbedded with 5200 and that time is sure to come.

[osirissail]

Removing a properly installed cutlass bearing is never easy or simple. The major concern is to prevent any rotation inside the shaft log tube by the bearing.
- - T5200 would be an acceptable "fix" only if the "fit" is not tight and firm and there are no set screws. Of course, set screws could be added if there is enough thickness of the shaft log wall to allow drilling and thread tapping.
- - Normal removal most usually involves cutting out a segment of the cutlass bearing to allow it to "shrink" and then forcing it out.

[DeepFrz]

Oh man, 5200 is an adhesive that should never be used on something like a cutlass bearing. I hope you are the one that has to replace it next time. Please, if you are, let us know how it goes.

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by DeepFrz

Oh man, 5200 is an adhesive that should never be used on something like a cutlass bearing. I hope you are the one that has to replace it next time. Please, if you are, let us know how it goes.

5200 has a remover that's supposed to work like majic (created by the guy who invented 5200)

me...I prefer a propane torch...300 degrees and most adhesives and epoxies fail pretty easily.

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by Gundy

I have just removed the Water Lubricated Cutlass Bearing with Phenolic Shell from my steel hulled boat and was wondering if there was a special sealant, glue or coating that should go over the bare metal in the steel housing that the bearing fits back into. There doesn't appear to be any in there at present and there are no signs of corrosion. Would anyone know what the normal procedure is?

a little waterproof grease shouldn't hurt anything....same thing is used on prop shafts.

Just don't use a compound/grease with any metal in it...like regular anti-sieze...makes things worse through galvanic corrosion (OK I know some don't believe in this...but it's the best explanation I have).

[Gundy]

Thanks everyone one for your advice. I now feel confident with just putting the new cutlass bearing back in (after cleaning the housing) and painting where there is any exposed metal on the housing.

Gundy

[Matt sachs]

This thread has been very helpful to me as well. I just bought Johnson Duromax Cutless bearing and Dripless shaft seal. I'll let you knbow how it goes.

[nonam]

Trick for breaking out a cutlass bearing.Put a hacksaw blade through the bearing then reinstal on the hacksaw.Make a lengthways cut next to the set screws.Be carefull not to cut the bearing holder.When the cut is mostly through the cuttless, screw in the set screws (or replace them with suitable bolts for the pupose).This should break the cut and bend in one edge of the cut and make removal of the bearing possible.

[osirissail]

For difficult to remove cutlass bearings I cut them out by removing a wedge of the bearing shell by cutting them with a low profile hacksaw like the one below. I make two cuts about 1/4 inch apart and parallel then remove the wedge. The rest of the bearing can them shrink enough to come free.

[tartan27tc]

Hi,
I was wondering if anyone knows about a fix for a new cutlass bearing that is 1/16" too loose. The old one fell apart when I tried to remove it. So, I sectioned it out with a hack saw. Then went on to a pencil file, then hones to clean the rest of it out. I tried my best not to alter the brass stern tube, but to no avail. The new bearing slid in easily. Does any one know of fix, or will I have to replace the stern tube? Thanks.