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Old 04-03-2008, 09:11   #1
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csy 33 chainplates

Anyone have experience replacing chainplates on a csy 33?
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:15   #2
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Yes, been there, done that.

What would ya like to know?
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:29   #3
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What did you do?
I have them out. There are issues with mounting.
Thanks, Tim
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Old 04-03-2008, 09:46   #4
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If you have them out already then you sure have a leg up. That really is the nasty part of the job.
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:27   #5
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Yes, I have them out and will have no problem making new ones.
It's the next part I have questions about...
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Old 04-03-2008, 10:39   #6
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Okay, gettind the plates out was nasty.
Especially the one in the bow.
Also had to take apart shelfs and stuff for the side-chainplates.

Had new ones made, then had them Electro polished...Highly recommended.

Putting them back in was just a matter of using sealants and new bolts/washers/nuts, etc. Then having the rig tuned.
Also, 3 of the backing plated were aluminum, and somewhat corroded, used SS instead on the new backing plates.

I had to hire a small/thin mechanic to help with the chain-locker work as I
don't fit in there...

What is your specific question on mounting the new plates..?
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Old 05-03-2008, 09:18   #7
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I've run into rot in the wood inside the rub rail...did you have to deal with that?
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Old 05-03-2008, 09:35   #8
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I've run into rot in the wood inside the rub rail...did you have to deal with that?
Yeah, had some of that...Not a big deal..I assume ya have a bunch of holes in the rub-rail, on the outside? If so, let the whole thing dry a few days or weeks. (Should be easy if ya are in Arizona) If not in Arizona, keep it dry and set some fans in the area. Get most or all of the moisture out, then use thin and slow drying epoxy. It will soak into the rotted areas, then harden and "repair" the rot. Some products on the market are also called "Git-Rot", same thing althought I used West System, the slow drying hardener.

Then plug the holes with teak-bungs. or just dowels cut to size and secured with more epoxy.
(After the plates are back in and torqued down)

Use plenty of sealant, and use masking tape to make it look pretty..

To prepare for the new plates, I scraped off the old sealant, sanded the fiberglass, then painted the raw glass beige. Makes it easier to see leaks/rust stains in the future.

How much did you pay to have the new plates made?

I paid $750.00..Nine 316 SS chainplates, pluss three SS backing plates.
Another $750.00 for various nuts/bolts/washers/tangs/sealants/tools and hired labour plus plating...All in all the project cost me about $1,500.00

Glad it is over with...
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Old 05-03-2008, 10:58   #9
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Slacker 33.

Which boat do you have? (What is the hull # and what configuration? Deep/shoal keel, Straight tranny or V-drive, sloop or cutter, etc)
How long have you owned it and why are you doing the chain plates? (Cracks, rust, or just preventive)

Send me MP if ya don't wanna publish any of the above, and if not already a member, sign up for the CSY mailing list on Topica.com.
Plenty of info from the last 10 years on all kinds of CSY projects, including chainplates, etc.

Welcome aboard.
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Old 22-12-2008, 21:23   #10
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Just found this old thread.

Curious on how Slacker's chain plate project went...?

Suddenly quiet, bad sign?
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