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Old 13-07-2009, 14:31   #1
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Crazed Windows / Ports

Hello All:

I seem to remember someone posting about a product which they swore did a great job of fixing this problem. It was some kind of wipe on/wipe off solution. I've spent the last while searching the threads to no avail. Does anyone remember this post and if so, can you please point me in the right direction?

Many thanks.
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Old 13-07-2009, 14:38   #2
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Dave,
there is no product that will remove the crazing.
( I work in a plasitcs place that refurbishes hatches) If there was every one would use it. what you might try, if the crazing is not to deep, is to sand it with 600 grit and then buff it to a polish ( try this on a very small section first!).
hope this helps
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Old 13-07-2009, 14:46   #3
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i just replaced 4 of my crazed lewmar ports .. easy to do and they really look great.
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Old 13-07-2009, 15:15   #4
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Crazed Glazing
I seem to remember someone posting about a product which they swore did a great job of fixing this problem. It was some kind of wipe on/wipe off solution...
Right.
And My wife & I are seeking a wipe on - wipe off wrinkle remover.
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Old 13-07-2009, 15:16   #5
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I have had some success with automotive rubbing compound and jewelers polish. But, as stated this will not help with deeper crazing. Personally, if they let in light and don't leak, I'm pretty tolerant of scratches/crazing on sailboat ports - they don't give you much of a view anyway.
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Old 13-07-2009, 15:19   #6
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I have had some success with automotive rubbing compound and jewelers polish. But, as stated this will not help with deeper crazing.
Gord. You and the missus try this one?
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Old 13-07-2009, 15:23   #7
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Gord. You and the missus try this one?
Holding my breath.
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Old 13-07-2009, 16:04   #8
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Gord, have you and the missus tried the 600 grit emery cloth and the lamb's wool buffer? Aren't wrinkles a sign of wisdom?
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Old 13-07-2009, 16:45   #9
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Sure, so why rub them off? A gray beard is better.
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Old 13-07-2009, 18:28   #10
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We just refinished our pilothouse windows. These are the steps:

1. wet sand by hand with 330 or 360 grit until all signs of crazing are gone.

At this point all coatings will be gone if any was there still.

2. wet sand by hand with 500 grit
3. 1000 grit by hand
4. 1200 grit by hand
5. 1500 grit by hand
6. Rubbing compound by hand
7. Polishing compound with real polishing machine (I use the Makita, love it)
8. Apply some sort of coating again. Most cruisers use 303 Aerospace protectant but this time I tried a new product I found from CorrosionX : some sort of polymer UV coating which is kind of the same as that 303 stuff but this is like a liquid wax.

For the sanding stages: finish sanding with a grit in one direction until you don't see any scratches in another direction. The scratches that are there now must be removed with the next grit up so sand in a different direction with the next grit.

The result is basically "like new". However, I think the original coatings are better so I re-apply that coating now and then.

The best technique is to replace the glass/lens/whatever with Lexan MR10 quality. This is an abrasion resistant coating that lasts. The sides (where the material is cut) must not see the light so if you use no frame that goes around the edges of the material, you have to paint them so no UV enters the material.
MR10 can't be bend without breaking the coating.

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 13-07-2009, 18:37   #11
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The sides (where the material is cut) must not see the light so if you use no frame that goes around the edges of the material, you have to paint them so no UV enters the material.
MR10 can't be bend without breaking the coating.
Nick, What material were you refinishing? More importantly, what is the reasoning behind painting the edges of the MR10? We have non-coated Makrolon (Lexan WITHOUT the coating, which is basically Plexi, I believe) going on our pilothouse without frames that cover the sides.. Any paint you can recommend? Thanks, Chris
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Old 14-07-2009, 00:59   #12
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Chris,

Makrolon (BASF) is the same as Lexan (GE), both are polycarbonate, it's just different manufacturers. Plexi glass is an acrylic and has very different properties.

Lexan is not UV stable. It will craze and quickly go opague. So the trick is to keep the UV off it. I was refinishing Lexan XL10 which has (had is a better word) an UV protectant coating, which was worn away by washing the windows (washing voids the 10 year warrenty).

If UV enters the panel from it's edges, it scatters all through the material, quickly degrading it. I believe there's even a special tape to protect the edges. But I would just use a nice (Dutch "International" brand ;-) 1-part poly-urethane, preferably black color. Or use the Sikaflex primer which is black and blocks UV (meant to protect the Sikaflex and hide it from view through the window).

Are you sure your Makrolon has no coating? I think you have a big chance it does have a UV coating. If not, quickly put that "SPF50 for your stuff" (read that on the 303 product) on them ;-) The CorrosionX alternative has an even better slogan: "nothing sticks to it but the shine" ...

cheers,
Nick.
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Old 14-07-2009, 05:24   #13
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Makrolon (BASF) is the same as Lexan (GE), both are polycarbonate, it's just different manufacturers...
Makrolon is a Bayer product, not BASF (although they are both successors to the dissolved IG Farben). I donít think BASF manufactures polycarbonates.
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Old 14-07-2009, 07:13   #14
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none of the warranty applies in marine environment.

just sayin'
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Old 14-07-2009, 15:49   #15
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And now you know why Lexan makes a poor window replacement in a marine environment UNLESS it is well protected...
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