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03-10-2010, 10:46
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#46
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 6,534
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"I've never been injured in any way from them"
You're making the same point as the many people who say "Seat belts can injure me, so I don't use them."
A salon table has only impacted my ribs once, and that was broad-on. Nevertheless, I prefer not to see sharp corners on cars, boats, or planes, because I know they ARE A HAZARD and they HAVE INJURED PEOPLE regardless of my own personal experience with them.
"A single hander overboard promises far more severe injuries "
Death, perhaps, but I can't see any reason why a mob would receive injuries from all that soft water around him.
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03-10-2010, 11:32
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#47
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C.L.O.D.

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 21,004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor
... I can't see any reason why a mob would receive injuries from all that soft water around him.
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I’d have thought that water’s incompressibility and surface tension might make it a somewhat “hard” surface, upon which to fall.
Just kidding, I know it's also "fluid".
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Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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03-10-2010, 18:26
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#48
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Seglare

Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: So. Cal.
Boat: Ericson 39B - Senta II
Posts: 1,017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GordMay
I’d have thought that water’s incompressibility and surface tension might make it a somewhat “hard” surface, upon which to fall.
Just kidding, I know it's also "fluid".
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Not to mention when it is cold !
-Sven
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04-10-2010, 03:46
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#49
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Long Range Cruiser

Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Grenada, the Caribbean
Boat: Beneteau 393 "Sea Life"
Posts: 7,275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete7
Okay, we are all ears, do you have a drawing of a design or a photo of the correct way to mount panels at stanchion height.
Pete
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Hi Pete,
This might not be the correct way, but sure is my way 
The black blocks are just bits of nylon cut and drilled. You could do similar with a thcik cutting boat with a circular saw. Or have them done at a shop
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04-10-2010, 06:57
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#50
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C.L.O.D.

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario - 48-29N x 89-20W
Boat: (Cruiser Living On Dirt)
Posts: 21,004
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__________________
Gord May
"If you didn't have the time or money to do it right in the first place, when will you get the time/$ to fix it?"
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04-10-2010, 13:24
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#51
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cruiser
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor
"I've never been injured in any way from them"
You're making the same point as the many people who say "Seat belts can injure me, so I don't use them."
A salon table has only impacted my ribs once, and that was broad-on. Nevertheless, I prefer not to see sharp corners on cars, boats, or planes, because I know they ARE A HAZARD and they HAVE INJURED PEOPLE regardless of my own personal experience with them.
"A single hander overboard promises far more severe injuries "
Death, perhaps, but I can't see any reason why a mob would receive injuries from all that soft water around him.
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The top of a stanchion, with only wire running thru it ,is a sharp corner. The top of a solid liferail is a smooth line, the opposite of a sharp corner and thus far less likely to injure.
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04-10-2010, 14:13
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#52
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Senior Cruiser

Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,030
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I will be doing that very thing to my Cape Dory with SS fittings/tubing from Sailrite... It's their bimini/dodger harware items..Many different ways to accomplish the task. Easiest method is with 90ş fitting set on the top of the stanchions at the end and T fittings in between and tubing running between...
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Randy
Cape Dory 25D Seraph
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04-10-2010, 14:51
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#53
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rtbates
I will be doing that very thing to my Cape Dory with SS fittings/tubing from Sailrite... It's their bimini/dodger harware items..Many different ways to accomplish the task. Easiest method is with 90ş fitting set on the top of the stanchions at the end and T fittings in between and tubing running between...
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So are you going to slide the tubing over the existing lifelines or are you removeing the lifelines and replacing with tubing?
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04-10-2010, 15:16
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#54
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Somali Pirate
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 6,171
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although I can see that using the stanchion top T fittings would mean (multiple) short lengths of s/s tube - would they still not need at least a bit of bending? (to follow the hull shape) - if so, how do ya do that?
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07-10-2010, 14:00
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#55
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cruiser
Join Date: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,167
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Yes a bit of pre bending is a good idea, altho they could be sprung, as the curve is not all that great. You could tie a loop of line over it and bend it that way, as long as the curve is slight.
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18-02-2012, 18:34
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#56
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Sunny Scotland but sail in the Caribbean
Boat: Beneteau Oceanis 461
Posts: 144
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Re: Connecting Two Life Line Stanchions with a Solid Tube
Quote:
Originally Posted by um saudade
Still
What you are proposing is a good way to lose some fairly expensive gear overboard. Do the math and you will see the impaft force a panel and mounts must sustain from even rough seas, let alone a breaking wave.
Do it right and do it once. For the record I don't like most of the solar panel mounts that are in use now days. One breaking wave and you will have no panels, no mounts and holes in the hull integrity.
um saudade
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One decent breaking wave hitting the panel will cause the panel to explode. Doubly so if you have strong rigid mounts - then the panel must absorb all of the impact and dissipate the load of the breaking wave BOOM Panel explodes in a million pieces
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ALOTBSOL
kindest regards
David
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18-02-2012, 19:37
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#57
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: On board now in Croatia
Boat: Lagoon 440
Posts: 733
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Re: Connecting Two Life Line Stanchions with a Solid Tube
Quote:
Originally Posted by David_Old_Jersey
although I can see that using the stanchion top T fittings would mean (multiple) short lengths of s/s tube - would they still not need at least a bit of bending? (to follow the hull shape) - if so, how do ya do that? 
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David usually you take full lengths and pre-bend them using the sheer of the boat in plan view as a guide because rails must match the hull form.
Then cut into sections between the relative staunchions and tack into place etc....
If you do in small pieces you tend to get flat spots in what we call the 'Green' area, the green area is the end of anything in metal that you are trying to shape, it's the tough bit at the beginning and end that you cut off and discard... Cheers frank
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"Political correctness is a creeping sickness that knows no boundaries"
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