Confused about Replacing Lexan Windows...

[endoftheroad]

I have 4 windows that needs Lexan replacements.

What should I expect after I take the screws out?
Pry the plastic frame off?

I am not worried about cutting the Lexan its whats inside that makes me nervous.

Thanks

btw,
that is netting on the lifelines in the windows.

[Beersmith]

there will probably be some sealant that you will need to pry the glass from. shouldn't be too big of a deal.

[smurphny]

Did this last year, easy job. The plexi is probably thicker than it looks so wait to get it out before ordering new. You can now get UV treated glass (keep the right side out) that should minimize this happening again.

[endoftheroad]

So theres nothing to bother about the outside frame?
Does it stay in place?

[Mark Johnson]

CAREFULLY & SLOWLY work a series of very sharp, thin putty knives under the flange all the way around. (You need about 4 @ 1.5" wide and a small mallet). Try to cut the caulk line before prising out on the frame. IF it is a metal frame against a glass hull, you can start the above, and once a gap is started, you take a red hot THIN, SHARP 1.5" wide putty knife, (keep a propane torch going), and push it in the caulk line VERY hard & quickly. Then pull it out IMMEDIATELY, so you melt the caulk line, but not the gel coat!!! A few seconds in the flame again, and push it it right next to the previous spot. As you go, you use other putty knives as wedges, to make the space get larger & larger. It may reach a point where you can gently pull it apart, but if it remains really stuck, melt the caulk line all the way around. (I use a sander to sharpen my putty knives)

Each port can be done in about 10 minutes this way! You can then use the red hot putty knife to remove old caulk, IF you can't just rub it off. DO NOT let the hot knife stay still against the gelcoat, and it will not hurt it. Of coarse... Don't burn yourself!

Best of luck,

Mark

[smurphny]

As Mark has mentioned, sharpening the putty knives makes it work much better. The frames on my boat are female thread on the outer frame. Once you remove all the screws make sure you don't lose the frame overboard when it drops off. Think I'd try it without heat at first. You can usually work sharp putty knives between gel coat and frames with a rolling motion but they have to be sharp (careful!). Putting the frames back in is the biggest challenge because the plexi/frames/topside cutouts need to be positioned exactly right and caulked securely (I used 5200 which is not really recommended but I love the stuff), without making too much of a cleanup mess with the caulk which is inherently messy stuff and a PIA to clean up. Don't use acetone, it will dissolve the plexi. I found that caulking and then taping the frames to the fiberglass securely from the outside, then going around and gingerly screwing in the inside frames worked pretty well. If you have two people so much the better. So mark the frames before you take them off so you know exactly where to re-install.