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Old 17-02-2009, 03:27   #16
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ok before i pass out here new pictures are being uploaded to photo buckit. the one picture with my keys on the deck the keys show the corner of a soft sopot, measurents are just for my rough idea and memory.

some close ups on rudder berring stuff

Pictures by shadowrwolf - Photobucket

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Old 03-05-2009, 02:33   #17
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Boat: Shuji Watanabe designed, 1973 Half tonner- Johnnie Brooke
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Originally Posted by James S View Post
Also consider putting stainless steel runners on the wash boards instead of lining the tracks...It'll do the same for keeping down the wear and may be a lot easier to execute.
You can see the sliders on the sides of the one I made.

As far as ventilation goes...if I was only going to make one go of it, it would be as weather tight as possible, with no vents.

If I could go further, I would make a stainless steel frame that would have enough bars to keep the bad guys out, and would have bug screen....this would fit where your washboard goes....and then a rain fly to keep the inside dry.

Lets see some pics!!
Hi James,

I just bought ShadowRWolf's boat. I posted a message in Meet and Greet:
My first sailboat.

That's a great idea about lining the companionway door edges with stainless. It looks very good.
I'm going to be picking up where Shadow left off.
I'm thinking about making a two piece door (stacking)
I can make two versions of the upper piece, one with vents and one solid.
I think I'll follow your recommendation and trim the edges with stainless steel.

Take care,

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Old 07-05-2009, 22:19   #18
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Hey Mitch, Congratulations on the buy.
Post us some pics of what you come up with.
S/V Arctic Lady
I love my boat, I can't afford not to!
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Old 17-10-2013, 15:33   #19
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Sydney, Australia
Boat: Clansman 30'
Posts: 1
Hi there,

For good long term service free turtle hatch seal...

Give the 5200 a miss and use fixtech:

Like everyone has said.....

Once you have got the turtle dry fitted:

1. Mark around the hatch using a pencil
2. Remove hatch, apply masking tape up to and including 1 inch from the pencil mark
3. Over lap the pencil marks
4. Dry fit the hatch
5. Use a stanly knife to score the tape, remove hatch and remove the tape from the overlapped side...perfect field for fixtech to seat.
6. Apply bead of fixtech to area to be sealed making sure you go around all the holes
7. Tape the 1st quarter of the threads of the bolts
8. Carefully fit hatch
9. IMPORTANT....tighten bolts to where the sealant only slightly oozes from under the hatch
10. After an hour remove the masking tape from arrondissement the hatch....perfect clean cleaning up afterward
11. After the cure time....I usually give it 24 hrs....tighten the nuts and bolts....

This procedure has worked for all of my deck fittings....even used a proper fire hose to try and get it to leaks to date and once I decide to sail around the world ( long term goal), the sealant is Lloyds registered.

Hope I've been able to help here.

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