Columbia 43 paint oxidation help

[adensity]

Hello everyone, first time posting in this forum.
What can you do wen you have this type of oxidation to bring the shine back. washing the boat leaves a dull looking paint. The boat is not coming out of the water soon and buffing with a electric buffer in the water seems like a bad idea. I read somewhere that soft scrub removes oxidation from the paint.

Any advice with a product or procedure.

Thanks

[DoubleWhisky]

Welcome to the Cruisers Forum
Surely You will get Your answer in an hour or two

Cheers,

Tomasz

[DoubleWhisky]

May be You will find it heplful

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...at-127455.html

Tips For Compound, Polish & Wax - SailNet Community

Marine AGlaze

[savoir]

First you must establish whether you have paint or gel coat. I would expect a Columbia to have gel coat on the topsides. Gel coat is actually better for you because it is thicker and harder than paint and will not show the occasional mistake. That will allow you to start with 600 grit paper followed by 1000 grit or higher. With paint you should start with a coarse compound and then move to a finer one.

The article by Maine Sail that DoubleWhisky posted covers it all.

[adensity]

The boat was painted 10 years ago, it is not gelcoat. I believe it is Imron. Thanks for your help DoubleWhisky and savor. I'm going to try a few more tests tomorrow.

[hriehl1]

I have found Poli-Glow to work reasonably well for short money. Practical Sailor magazine concurs.

It only lasts (barely) a season here in New England, but for my 28 footer the initial 6-coat application took an afternoon; and now each spring I apply 2 more coats and it takes a maybe 2 hours tops. The attached photo was on my initial application... the treated portion has 6 coats, and the untreated none. You decide.

[a64pilot]

Imron?
I hate to say good luck, but maybe once out of the water you can compound and polish it. Stuff is major hard as in tough.
There are many, many aircraft painted with Imron, I haven't seen it really chalk though, I think it used to be advertised as "the wet look that lasts" or something and it really does.

[savoir]

Starting with fine grit paper can be very risky with old paint. You don't know how thick it is and might go right through to the undercoat in a few places. It would be safer to start with coarse compound.

[tsl]

Originally Posted by hriehl1

I have found Poli-Glow to work reasonably well for short money. Practical Sailor magazine concurs.

It only lasts (barely) a season here in New England, but for my 28 footer the initial 6-coat application took an afternoon; and now each spring I apply 2 more coats and it takes a maybe 2 hours tops. The attached photo was on my initial application... the treated portion has 6 coats, and the untreated none. You decide.

Try this first!!! Before you start thinking of other options. Read up on it on the net. It has worked very well for me. It's easily stripped off if you don't like it. Polyglow is likely the largest brand but there are others out there.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

Imron?
I hate to say good luck, but maybe once out of the water you can compound and polish it. Stuff is major hard as in tough.
There are many, many aircraft painted with Imron, I haven't seen it really chalk though, I think it used to be advertised as "the wet look that lasts" or something and it really does.

I would have to agree.
Try the finest grit compound you can find and work courser if it not satisfactory, try a small patch. I can't agree with starting with sand paper. Why create a problem. Imron may just buff out.

[Cadence]

apilot64,

We meet again. I'll be damned we do agree.