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Old 11-02-2015, 20:31   #1
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Cockpit drains

I need help, the drains in the cockpit are garbage. I want to replace them completely, are right. I plan on using either stainless or bronze.
Questions
1 what is the proper name for both the part coming out of the cockpit and the part going threw the hull. So i am talking in the same language as everyone here.
2 should I plumb the bilge pump into the cockpit drain lines (cockpit drains are the only threw hulls), and if so do I need check valves from the bilge pump or any special routing.

Thank you for any advise.
Martin
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Old 11-02-2015, 21:18   #2
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Re: cockpit drains

They're called scuppers, and should be high enough out of the water to not need pumping.

Bilge pumps are for bilges.
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Old 11-02-2015, 21:44   #3
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Re: cockpit drains

Probably not a good idea to connect your bilge outlet to your cockpit drains. Even tho you dont have an inboard, bilges can get pretty nasty, and you would not want bilge water to have any chance of getting backed up into your cockpit. The bilge pump outlet should have a loop as high up as you can get it, with a vent at the high point, to prevent back siphoning. Since your boat has very shallow bilges, you will probably want to put a STRUM BOX, on the intake line, that will pick up almost to the last 1/4 inch of water. I would say to never put a check valve in any outlet line. They almost always get crudded up and let water go both ways. What is the actual problem with the cockpit drains? ________Grant.
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Old 11-02-2015, 21:58   #4
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Re: cockpit drains

Quote:
Originally Posted by martin0759 View Post
what is the proper name for both the part coming out of the cockpit
PERKO Inc. - Catalog - Underwater Hardware - Cockpit Scupper [0142]

Quote:
Originally Posted by martin0759 View Post
and the part going threw the hull
PERKO Inc. - Catalog - Underwater Hardware - Seacock Body - Ball Valve Design [0805]

and

PERKO Inc. - Catalog - Underwater Hardware - Thru-Hull Connection for use with Pipe [0322]
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Old 11-02-2015, 22:09   #5
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Re: cockpit drains

The upper part coming out of the cockpit is plastic and cracked both of them, then someone screwed a steel coupler to it and taped over all of it with 1" clear hose down to the threw hull which has a plastic garden hose ball valve on it. It does leak and even a dumb millwright can see it it wrong.

Which is the scupper? Or is scupper used universaly for both the parts coming out of the cockpit and going threw the hull. Trying to learn and this is a good boat to learn maintenance on.

Where should I drain the bilge water to?

Thank you
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Old 12-02-2015, 00:21   #6
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Re: cockpit drains

Martin0759,

We mainly use nylon through hull fittings and bronze ball valves. On your boat, there's something like the tail piece for a sink drain that your pipes go to. Replace that, and use tygon or some other decent hose to replace the pvc pipes, If the through hull is above the waterline, this is okay. Note, my assumption is that you keep the boat on a trailer. If you keep it in the water, you may want to figure a way for it to drain out above the waterline, and eliminate the below the water line through hull. Obviously, it is a good deal for the water to leave the cockpit readily both in the water and on the trailer.

For the bilge, my guess is that it's mostly clean, because the boat lives on a trailer. So, place the through hull fitting for the bilge pump so that it is well above the water line, with the bilge pump (with a strainer) at the lowest part of the bilge. Shortest runs are best, because the bit left in the hose drains back into the bilge, where to keep things copacetic, you keep a sponge and a small plastic container, and quickly bail out the remainder. If you let it set, the bacteria in it multiply and it will stink.

Ann
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Old 12-02-2015, 20:12   #7
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Re: cockpit drains

Thank you everyone I am a slow learner but I can learn, one last question on this project. What sealant would be best on both the cockpit drains and threw hulls?

Martin
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Old 13-02-2015, 00:47   #8
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Re: cockpit drains

Martin,

I, personally, have faith in 3M products, check and see if 4200 is good for under the waterline, if that is the application; 5200 is a very serious adhesive. . However, it is quite possible that Sika have something just fine for the purpose. If you read up on this stuff, then you can begin to rely on your own judgment and build confidence.

Ann

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Old 13-02-2015, 01:03   #9
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Re: cockpit drains

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Originally Posted by martin0759 View Post
Thank you everyone I am a slow learner but I can learn, one last question on this project. What sealant would be best on both the cockpit drains and threw hulls?

Martin

I'd use Sikaflex 291 on any thru-hull. It's strong, flexible and Lloyds approved.
Also, do the pipes cross over on their way to the skin-fitting? It would pay to consider this carefully as it allows the deepest hole's scupper to remain above the waterline, no matter what. The only time I wouldn't do this is if the high-side skin-fitting will always be under water, even when the pipe is over horizontal, as this would fill you cockpit.
I'm not sure I'm doing a very good job explaining this. Maybe someone else can cover it more succinctly...


Peace.
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Old 13-02-2015, 01:07   #10
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Re: cockpit drains

One caveat with Sika- clean the area with with solvent first, then clean the whole thing again when you're done before it's fully cured. Most paint systems won't stick to mastic/silicone based products, so it's important to make sure you can't see any left behind once the thru-hull fitting is in place or your paint/anti foul will fail around the fitting.


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Old 12-03-2015, 19:33   #11
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Re: Cockpit drains

Got the new thru hull hull fittings to replace the sink drain fittings in the cockpit, with the popmetal l jam nut. And discovered that there is some damage to the fiberglass around the cockpit drain. So I cleaned off the paint under the cockpit and around the drains themselves, and also around the sink drain. Hopefully tomorrow morning I will glass under the cockpit, in the cockpit holes and around the sink drain thru hull. Then drill them out and recess for the drain.
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Old 12-03-2015, 20:07   #12
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Re: Cockpit drains

That looks like honeycomb coring. Make certain you form a hard spot with filled epoxy by replacing the coring around the drain hole, where the scuppers mount.
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Old 12-03-2015, 20:58   #13
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Re: Cockpit drains

It is solid fiberglass just thin. Trying to reinforce the structure and make the new cockpit drains fit.
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Old 13-03-2015, 13:47   #14
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Re: Cockpit drains

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Originally Posted by martin0759 View Post
...... should I plumb the bilge pump into the cockpit drain lines (cockpit drains are the only threw hulls), and if so do I need check valves from the bilge pump or any special routing.

Thank you for any advise.
Martin
The bilge pump should have it's own thruhull (what is it currently connected to?).

Bilge pump outputs should not have a check valve. Because of debris that might be picked up by the bilge pump, it will most likely get stuck at some point, either in the open position, in which case it is doing nothing, or in the closed position, in which case, the pump will operate continuously but not empty the bilge.
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Old 13-03-2015, 18:23   #15
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Re: Cockpit drains

No check valve for the bilge pump, understandable, just checking.


The bilge pump doesn't go anywhere right now, when we bought the boat the bilge had 6' of garden hose attached to it and alligator clips to hook to the battery. Currently there are 3 holes in the bottom of the boat. 2 for the cockpit drains and one for the sink drain. Running the bilge line to the sink drain would be 10' more hose to be trouble in the future. I really don't want to drill more hole in the bottom of the boat or the top for that matter. I can drill and tap into the cockpit drain fitting and have revolves water go that way. If there is any plug up the other drain still works and it is almost draught down to the thru hull to clean it. Ideas or suggestions other than adding more hole to the bottom of the boat.

Also starting to sand the handrails and companion way slides, but that will be another post.

Thank you Martin
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